Leaving your last quick draw in

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Drifter
Posts: 522
Joined: Fri Jan 12, 2007 9:54 am

Leaving your last quick draw in

Postby Drifter » Mon Mar 12, 2007 8:18 am

I heard on the mountain this person telling another person that if the anchors break you just pray, you don't need to do that what you can do is when you are leading the climb and you top rope, you leave the quick draw just below the anchors in so you have three points of contact for those of you who don't know this. This is why it is a good idea to do City Rocks climbing courses.
Last edited by Drifter on Tue Mar 13, 2007 6:48 am, edited 2 times in total.

Andy Davies
Posts: 321
Joined: Wed Jul 06, 2005 12:37 pm

Clear & simple

Postby Andy Davies » Mon Mar 12, 2007 9:42 am

I think Drifter is refering to \"back clipping\":

When toproping and cleaning the draws, leave the last draw in and clip it into the belayers section of rope. If the chains do fail you will have a 3rd piece of protection to save your @ss. Also if you make the error of untying, not threading and retying, you won't hit the deck when you lean back expecting your unthreaded rope to hold you. I believe a pretty young gal from MMO made this error at Silvermine Main crag once. Lotsa benefit for little effort.
AndyDavies

scottnoy
Posts: 180
Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2006 12:29 am

Postby scottnoy » Mon Mar 12, 2007 11:12 am

I'm sorry but this type of discussion really irritates me...
Do I understand you correctly? Are you talking about backing up two new-ish bolted anchors on a sport route?
If there were any doubt in the strengh of the anchors you should definitely not be leading on the bolts below as a lead fall generates 10 times the force of a static toprope situation! If you assume the bolts are solid enough to take a fall I would logically assume that the chains are able to support a force that is far smaller???
I'm not saying safety shouldn't come first in all situations but maybe climbers should educate themselves about the dangers (facts) involved in climbing and stop following the herd. Just because you are on toprope does not mean you SAFE. You can die!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Drifter
Posts: 522
Joined: Fri Jan 12, 2007 9:54 am

It is just in case

Postby Drifter » Mon Mar 12, 2007 1:34 pm

You leave the last quick draw in which is just below the anchors ,you are belayed down and you take the other quick draws out so the person that is going to climb on top rope has 3 points of safety. It is higly unlikely that new anchors are going to come out but the quick draw is just there for extra safety and once the person has top rope the climb they bring the quick draw down with them.

DaveD
Posts: 90
Joined: Thu Jan 19, 2006 8:36 am

Postby DaveD » Tue Mar 13, 2007 8:51 am

What if the anchors blow, and the last bolt blows? should I clip the second to last bolt as well?

Okay I know, I am just being silly. Please don't reply. It was a joke. :D
Feel the Qui


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