Shoe Downsizing Debunking The Myth

Post here for all your gear questions, rants and raves. Ask about gear before you buy it and find out what others are using. NOTE: this forum is NOT for gear sales.

User avatar
Justin
Posts: 3233
Joined: Sat Apr 30, 2005 8:31 am
Real Name: Justin Lawson
Location: Montagu
Contact:

Shoe Downsizing Debunking The Myth

Postby Justin » Tue May 13, 2014 12:18 pm

Good article on climbing shoes sizes - Are your Climbing Shoes too Tight?
Climb ZA - Administrator
justin@climbing.co.za

User avatar
danglingdingle
Posts: 180
Joined: Wed Mar 17, 2010 8:11 pm
Real Name: Kevin Dingle

Re: Shoe Downsizing Debunking The Myth

Postby danglingdingle » Tue May 13, 2014 3:09 pm

Totally agree,

I wear a size 9.5 normal shoe and a size 9 climbing shoe, Snug but still comfortable.

The last thing you want is your feet sore, numb or aching when you are on the crux move of a project.

But I'd be interested to hear what others think?

Kevin

DeanVDM
Posts: 129
Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2006 1:23 pm
Location: Gauteng

Re: Shoe Downsizing Debunking The Myth

Postby DeanVDM » Tue May 13, 2014 3:29 pm

Completely agree. No need to cut a trad day short just because of overly tight shoes

User avatar
danglingdingle
Posts: 180
Joined: Wed Mar 17, 2010 8:11 pm
Real Name: Kevin Dingle

Re: Shoe Downsizing Debunking The Myth

Postby danglingdingle » Tue May 13, 2014 4:00 pm

Maybe Boulderers have a different opinion
Attachments
Climbing cartoon.png
Climbing cartoon.png (161.92 KiB) Viewed 2356 times

User avatar
Thermophage
Posts: 387
Joined: Thu Jan 20, 2011 11:03 am
Real Name: Cuan Lohrentz
Location: Cape Town

Re: Shoe Downsizing Debunking The Myth

Postby Thermophage » Tue May 13, 2014 7:09 pm

lol Kev...I agree...a LOT of boulderers like the stupidly small shoe BS. There's simply no need. I think she design has evolved (no pun intended) to the point that tight shoes are perfect and downsizing to painful gives fokkol extra advantage ...
I've done both and TBH...at my grades I may as well be climbing in entry levels...I'm just a little bit of a shoe whore :P

User avatar
Forket
Posts: 492
Joined: Sun Mar 22, 2009 7:34 pm
Real Name: Everyday Troll

Re: Shoe Downsizing Debunking The Myth

Postby Forket » Wed May 14, 2014 10:07 am

:lol:

User avatar
proze
Posts: 392
Joined: Mon Mar 26, 2007 10:57 am
Real Name: Paul P
Location: CT

Re: Shoe Downsizing Debunking The Myth

Postby proze » Wed May 14, 2014 10:35 am

Buy a pair of La Sportiva shoes in your street shoes and then go and attempt your project. I'll bring popcorn... :jocolor:

User avatar
Thermophage
Posts: 387
Joined: Thu Jan 20, 2011 11:03 am
Real Name: Cuan Lohrentz
Location: Cape Town

Re: Shoe Downsizing Debunking The Myth

Postby Thermophage » Wed May 14, 2014 10:36 am

I wore the Scorpions in my street shoe size for a while...Bouldered 7b in them :thumright

Old Smelly
Posts: 321
Joined: Fri Nov 28, 2008 1:21 pm

Re: Shoe Downsizing Debunking The Myth

Postby Old Smelly » Wed May 14, 2014 11:02 am

I think the point in the article is about fit as opposed to whether you can just pick your size & shove it on.

That being said I think that Mok makes a point. For some people it is a matter of taking a Lasportiva shoe in size 9, putting it on and it fits - but then they are lucky not smart. Personally I can say that the size 9 (43) Testarossa fits me perfectly, the Solution fits me in size 41 (two sizes smaller) and the Muira sort of fits me in 41 but not really so I would never buy this shoe as it clearly does not work for my foot, whereas the Testarossa is just too classy and expensive for me. So the reality is that you will have to hunt around for something that fits you, meets your requirement and your budget - big surprise - this seems to be the same outcome as the boot thread, but the real point is that you probably should start with your actual shoe size now days and not immediately go down 2 sizes.

I agree with the article - shoe fitting requires better understanding and not just automatic down sizing. Pity boulderers are more thick than the rest of us or they would get it too! :lol:
Really, its not that bad...I think it's my shoes...

Chris F
Posts: 631
Joined: Fri Sep 22, 2006 1:45 pm
Location: Aberdeen, Scotland

Re: Shoe Downsizing Debunking The Myth

Postby Chris F » Wed May 14, 2014 12:15 pm

I though the point was that rock shoe fitting should be down to finding what suits your foot, not following trends and styles, A bit like ski boot fitting. I have yet to find a red chilli shoe that fits my feet well, but never found a 5.10 that doesn't! I've tried loads of other things in between and go through a ritual of trying everything new on the market each time I need a new pair.

User avatar
danglingdingle
Posts: 180
Joined: Wed Mar 17, 2010 8:11 pm
Real Name: Kevin Dingle

Re: Shoe Downsizing Debunking The Myth

Postby danglingdingle » Wed May 14, 2014 2:46 pm

Also When you find a shoe that fits and you are happy with, usually a good idea to buy a few pairs.

That way if they discontinue the line you still have your awesome shoes.

Kevin

User avatar
proze
Posts: 392
Joined: Mon Mar 26, 2007 10:57 am
Real Name: Paul P
Location: CT

Re: Shoe Downsizing Debunking The Myth

Postby proze » Wed May 14, 2014 3:17 pm

Thermophage wrote:I wore the Scorpions in my street shoe size for a while...Bouldered 7b in them :thumright

Too bad, would have sent 8A if you'd had shoes that fit... :p

User avatar
Thermophage
Posts: 387
Joined: Thu Jan 20, 2011 11:03 am
Real Name: Cuan Lohrentz
Location: Cape Town

Re: Shoe Downsizing Debunking The Myth

Postby Thermophage » Wed May 14, 2014 3:40 pm

God dammit! I knew it! :P

User avatar
mountainmailorder
Posts: 96
Joined: Thu Mar 23, 2006 10:16 am

Re: Shoe Downsizing Debunking The Myth

Postby mountainmailorder » Wed May 14, 2014 3:44 pm

This is what one of the manufacturers says on their shoebox. Good advice.
Attachments
shoes2.jpg
shoes2.jpg (64.02 KiB) Viewed 2146 times

immortality
Posts: 17
Joined: Thu Jul 12, 2012 12:09 pm
Real Name: Immo Bartens

Re: Shoe Downsizing Debunking The Myth

Postby immortality » Wed May 14, 2014 4:21 pm

My left foot is a whole size larger than my right foot.
=Kak one!

Nic Le Maitre
Posts: 862
Joined: Mon Apr 02, 2007 9:40 am
Real Name: Nic Le Maitre
Location: Stellenbosch

Re: Shoe Downsizing Debunking The Myth

Postby Nic Le Maitre » Wed May 14, 2014 4:31 pm

Chris F wrote:but never found a 5.10 that doesn't!


You obviously never tried the old Anasazi laceup. You needed triangular heels for them...
Happy climbing
Nic

User avatar
danglingdingle
Posts: 180
Joined: Wed Mar 17, 2010 8:11 pm
Real Name: Kevin Dingle

Re: Shoe Downsizing Debunking The Myth

Postby danglingdingle » Wed May 14, 2014 4:34 pm

A "not so subtle" 5-10 advert

:wink:

Old Smelly
Posts: 321
Joined: Fri Nov 28, 2008 1:21 pm

Re: Shoe Downsizing Debunking The Myth

Postby Old Smelly » Thu May 15, 2014 6:51 am

Never! Who could be so crafty?
Really, its not that bad...I think it's my shoes...

Chris F
Posts: 631
Joined: Fri Sep 22, 2006 1:45 pm
Location: Aberdeen, Scotland

Re: Shoe Downsizing Debunking The Myth

Postby Chris F » Thu May 15, 2014 10:32 am

Nic Le Maitre wrote:
Chris F wrote:but never found a 5.10 that doesn't!


You obviously never tried the old Anasazi laceup. You needed triangular heels for them...


What, the old pinks? Done some of my hardest ascents ever in them. heel was fine, used to get a little split just behind the heel, but never a major problem.

Nic Le Maitre
Posts: 862
Joined: Mon Apr 02, 2007 9:40 am
Real Name: Nic Le Maitre
Location: Stellenbosch

Re: Shoe Downsizing Debunking The Myth

Postby Nic Le Maitre » Thu May 15, 2014 12:14 pm

Image

The old design on the left, the new on the right

Really?

Please post a pic of your heels, I want to see this :lol:
Happy climbing
Nic

Chris F
Posts: 631
Joined: Fri Sep 22, 2006 1:45 pm
Location: Aberdeen, Scotland

Re: Shoe Downsizing Debunking The Myth

Postby Chris F » Thu May 15, 2014 3:02 pm

The left, pretty certain. Will need to go find them in the festering tub in the garage - they were relegated to DWS shoes after the toes blew out.

You want to see my bare heels, the shoe heels or my heels in the shoes? :?:

I know loads of people who used them with no problems.

Nic Le Maitre
Posts: 862
Joined: Mon Apr 02, 2007 9:40 am
Real Name: Nic Le Maitre
Location: Stellenbosch

Re: Shoe Downsizing Debunking The Myth

Postby Nic Le Maitre » Thu May 15, 2014 6:54 pm

No feet, ew! I was just kidding. I had a pair for ages, great shoes just couldn't heel hook in them at at all. The new design looks much saner though.
Happy climbing
Nic

User avatar
tygereye
Posts: 199
Joined: Fri May 27, 2005 7:34 am
Real Name: Brenda Marx
Location: Stellenbosch

Re: Shoe Downsizing Debunking The Myth

Postby tygereye » Fri May 16, 2014 8:19 am

I've had several pairs of Cobras and Muiras (both La Sportiva) size 4 (37) which suit my street size 6/7 (39/40) feet beautifully. Then I also had a pair of size 6 (39) Evolv Pontas which would start hurting my feet after a few climbs. Not because of the size, but the shape.
...Sadly, because I found their rubber gripped better than the LaSportiva rubber.
I've climbed routes in size 38 Muiras being able to edge tiny foot holds, and had the joy of using size 39s (with socks on) on a "hard" (relative for me) route as well. Without socks they were too big, but because of the shape I could still heel hook and use fairly small edges.

Chris F
Posts: 631
Joined: Fri Sep 22, 2006 1:45 pm
Location: Aberdeen, Scotland

Re: Shoe Downsizing Debunking The Myth

Postby Chris F » Fri May 16, 2014 10:32 am

Nic Le Maitre wrote:No feet, ew! I was just kidding. I had a pair for ages, great shoes just couldn't heel hook in them at at all. The new design looks much saner though.


I actually found the little "chin" at the back great for heelhooking, up to the point where you would overpressure it, and it would fold and your foot would pop off suddenly.


Return to “Gear Questions & Reviews”

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 2 guests