Steel Biner on Magical Mystery Tour

Let everyone know about any suspect/dodgy/misplaced bolts to be renewed or avoided.
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Justin
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Joined: Sat Apr 30, 2005 8:31 am
Real Name: Justin Lawson
Location: Montagu
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Steel Biner on Magical Mystery Tour

Postby Justin » Thu Dec 19, 2013 12:40 pm

I removed a steel biner off Magical Mystery Tour the other day.

The biner pulls the chain links tight creating strain on the links and hangers (which creates unnecessary force on the entire setup).

Looking at the picture, the right hand side hanger almost looks bent (although this might just be the angle from which the photo was taken!?)

If the biner is yours, contact me and you can get it back from me.
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horizontal_chain_link_force.jpg
American Death Triangle chain link with biner
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justin@climbing.co.za

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Wes
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Joined: Sat Jan 08, 2011 10:25 pm
Real Name: Wesley

Re: Steel Biner on Magical Mystery Tour

Postby Wes » Thu Dec 19, 2013 1:05 pm

This is called triloading. Here is a good explanation. (The example is for slacklines, but the principle is the same)

http://www.nwslackline.org/71/triloading-101

RockHopper
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Joined: Mon Feb 06, 2006 2:15 pm

Re: Steel Biner on Magical Mystery Tour

Postby RockHopper » Mon Dec 23, 2013 11:14 am

Thanks for removing it Justin, I noticed it at the top anchors the day we climbed the route but was not sure if it was placed there for some reason or if it should have been removed.

Old Smelly
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Joined: Fri Nov 28, 2008 1:21 pm

Re: Steel Biner on Magical Mystery Tour

Postby Old Smelly » Fri Dec 27, 2013 3:59 pm

In reality the problem lies with the chains being too short. In this case they could be easily extended with fixed maillons. My point is that it is all well & good to say people are ignorant for loading the anchors like this but if the original creator of the anchors had been more diligent then there would be no issue. Personally I see this all the time, whether it is a pair of hangers that have no rings or bits of rusted chain that biners do not fit through...sure if you know what you are doing then you are ok...but why put up a climb & then end it with a shoddy anchor system?
Really, its not that bad...I think it's my shoes...


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