Updating of Swinburne Guide

New Areas. New routes. Retrobolting. Add-ons. Re-grading. etc.
Post Reply
Todd Ryan
Posts: 33
Joined: Mon Dec 04, 2006 11:19 am

Updating of Swinburne Guide

Post by Todd Ryan » Mon Apr 23, 2012 3:43 pm

Hey All,

I have been working on updating the Swinburne guide over the past year. The latest version is available as a PDF on the routes wiki. Hoping some people can help out with some of the missing info still needed.

For example, anyone who knows anything about the Homeless Boulder's whereabouts. Martin Renz, both problems on this boulder were opened by you so if you ever in the vicinity could you get some GPS co-ordinates or take a picture of the boulder and mention which other boulders are nearby.
DSC_0731a.jpg
DSC_0731a.jpg (59.97 KiB) Viewed 3282 times
Does anyone have any info on the two routes on this boulder - Manure Boulders. There are two routes which share one chain (not a set of chains) which is starting to rust. I believe these routes have been around for some time.

By mid-May the guide should have an index (all routes in alphabetical order and page numbers) at the back. New images will still take some time. Please email me any info on new routes at tywinfield@hotmail.com - also any suggestions or faults in the updated guide.

I will use this post from now on to try and gather all further missing info.

Thanks,
Tyrone.

grubber
Posts: 10
Joined: Wed Aug 10, 2011 10:55 am
Real Name: stefan warsink

Re: Updating of Swinburne Guide

Post by grubber » Thu May 03, 2012 11:40 am

Hey,

This is the closest thread I could find for my question.

I went bouldering at long tonk a few weeks ago and did Wegneem (which is k*k-hard!). Another line is quite logical, starting from the same holds but trending right along bigger holds and finishing up over the face.
I've found nothing about it anywhere, so I guess it's an FA. If anyone knows more about it, let me know!

Tentative name and grade: Gat se Deksel 6C+, V5ish

Todd Ryan
Posts: 33
Joined: Mon Dec 04, 2006 11:19 am

Re: Updating of Swinburne Guide

Post by Todd Ryan » Tue May 29, 2012 12:30 am

Thanks Stefan, I will add this info in to the guide. As far as I can tell it is a new problem.

Todd Ryan
Posts: 33
Joined: Mon Dec 04, 2006 11:19 am

Re: Updating of Swinburne Guide

Post by Todd Ryan » Tue May 29, 2012 12:47 am

Stefan, I have updated the guide as follows:
2. GAT SE DEKSEL V5/6C+
Start as per WEGNEEM, but trending right along bigger holds and finishing up over the face.
FA: Stefan Warsink, April 2012

Let me know if you are happy with this. It can easily be changed.

Todd Ryan
Posts: 33
Joined: Mon Dec 04, 2006 11:19 am

Re: Updating of Swinburne Guide

Post by Todd Ryan » Tue May 29, 2012 12:59 am

Regarding my first post, I have still not heard from anyone regarding the two unknown routes on the Manure Boulder which share a single anchor. Refer to the picture below. I will be in Swinburne over June and intend to replace this chain and to add a second chain (as per most routes in SA), and also intend to give the other route it's own set of chains. If there are any objections to this from the original bolters please let me know.
If anyone knows anything regarding who bolted these two routes and when please contact me as I would prefer to have their blessing before going ahead with this.
Would also like to find out what type of bolts were used on these two routes.
Attachments
DSC_0735a.jpg
DSC_0735a.jpg (66.49 KiB) Viewed 3014 times

User avatar
Justin
Posts: 3808
Joined: Sat Apr 30, 2005 8:31 am
Real Name: Justin Lawson
Location: Montagu/Cape Town
Contact:

Re: Updating of Swinburne Guide

Post by Justin » Tue May 29, 2012 11:41 am

Hi Tyrone, thanks for taking care of this. Two bolts needs to become standard bolting practice in SA for lower offs/top anchors.
Climb ZA - Administrator
justin@climbing.co.za

Old Smelly
Posts: 660
Joined: Fri Nov 28, 2008 1:21 pm

Re: Updating of Swinburne Guide

Post by Old Smelly » Tue May 29, 2012 5:16 pm

Not only that but this habbit of having a stud come out the rock, followed by a ring of chain & barely covered by a small washer with a nut on top is in my books a bit sub optimal :?
I often look at these chains on stances, then look at the fifty metre or more drop & then look back at the 1.6mm washer that is holding the chain under nut & say a silent prayer.

In my books anchors should be bomber & that means that the bolter knew what they were doing, i.e. the bolts are sufficiently far apart to be safe, the attachment point is not this dodgy bolt, chain, washer & nut combo, the various components are stainless steel & they equalise via chains or maillons in a decent manner.

Don't get me wrong. I am grateful that someone bolted the route but I am more grateful to some one who does it by the books. We have all seen anchors/ chains that are done to a point of near perfection & we have all seen the ones where you wonder why the bolter bothered. This is simply a plea to do things the best possible way, as ultimately it affects us all. :thumright
Really, its not that bad...I think it's my shoes...

grubber
Posts: 10
Joined: Wed Aug 10, 2011 10:55 am
Real Name: stefan warsink

Re: Updating of Swinburne Guide

Post by grubber » Wed May 30, 2012 1:56 pm

It's fine like that Todd, thanks for putting it in. I'd like to hear from repeats as well, so if anyone does it, let me know!

and I agree with old smelly as well.

Post Reply