Swinburne. Route guide outdated

New Areas. New routes. Retrobolting. Add-ons. Re-grading. etc.
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Posts: 25
Joined: Mon May 30, 2011 6:31 pm
Real Name: Andrew Louw

Swinburne. Route guide outdated

Post by AndrewSport » Mon May 30, 2011 7:03 pm

Hi there.

I am a relatively new climber and got quite lost at Swinburne this weekend :)
My RD also seems to be a bit outdated (although newly downloaded/printed from the internet)

Could you help me identify a few routes?

On the southern side of what i believe was "The shark tank boulder", we climbed route 4 (Ocean Basket) and route 6 (Fish Food).
In the middle of these two routes were another 2 routes. The first (left one) had a really easy start with a scramble into a cubby and then a nice tricky balancy move reaching over the cubby and then up again to a sidepull and over to the next hanger. (only about 3 hangers on the route if i remember correctly).
We did this route reasonably easy so i guess it to be a about a 17???
About 2 meters to the right of this route was another route that had a easy start with big flakes providing holds for the first two clips.......getting to the 3rd clip required more skill than we had :)
Luckily the good grips allowed us to recover our gear and back away gracefully.
My skill level is in the 18/19 range and 20 could be done with a lot of sweating and plenty of luck.

So i am thinking that the route we failed on is route 5 on the guide (Something fishy)
So what was the one to the left of it? And what grade? And could someone add it to the guide please.

Next question.
Standing at the Ocean Basket route we could see some hangers going up what i think is the Whale rock boulder. The route looks quite tough and long (guessing 20m).
We could not find it on the RD and did not want to attempt it in fear of losing gear if it is above our skill level.
Does anyone know what it is and how difficult?

Then we moved onto Pacific ocean boulder and i just want someone to verify the route that we climbed.
I think it was "Shark on a leash".
It started from a small rock that somone placed there. Left hand on a hard sidepull because your toes were in a small hole almost directly below it. Right hand went way out to the right for balance and was then bumbed up to a grip just below a cubby/indent. You then move into the cubby and it was quite a balancy trick to find the small grip above and to the right of the cubby. It was then a easy move to a ledge just below the next bolt and a easy climb except for the killer move just below the chains/u-bolts.
Was this "Shark on a leash" ?
I am asking because the RD states that the route on the left of it was not yet bolted. And the route on the left of what i climbed was definitely bolted.


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