Sparseness at City Rock bouldering wall

New Areas. New routes. Retrobolting. Add-ons. Re-grading. etc.
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Sparseness at City Rock bouldering wall

Post by kyle » Thu Dec 10, 2009 4:05 pm

I am a regular climber at city rock or rather a regular boulderer. I'm wondering if it is me, but I don't think so?

Over the past 6 months there has been a steady decline in the quality of the bouldering wall. Each time I go to the gym there are fewer and fewer holds and less interesting routes. I have mentioned it on a number of occasions to City Rock employees that I think the wall is not up to scratch and yet it continues to decline. Yesterday I could not do a full traverse of the lower walls and I consider myself a proficient climber. I have two climbing buddies who are less proficient than me and both of them now refuse to come to the wall anymore because it is too hard for them and feel that the R60/ session is a waste.

I've just got an email from another friend who won't be at the gym tonight :" went to the gym on tues - min grips, no routes and tons of looseness."

The 45 degree wall is really hard in general and does not have enough holds to make interesting routes. The roped climbing walls are looking great and the new walls are a great addition to the gym.

This is not meant to be a gripe or accusation but merely an observation that if the quality of the bouldering wall does not improve I will be doing my training elsewhere, even though I have been climbing at city rock since it started and have always enjoyed the vibe.

If others do not agree and I have just become a weak whiner then I will retract the above complaint.

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Re: Sparseness at City Rock bouldering wall

Post by micky » Thu Dec 10, 2009 6:12 pm


I was one of the people who asked that there be more small grips and less biggies on the 45 wall. The reason for this being its nice for there to be at least one section of the wall with some hard-very hard problems. If its scattered with big holds you end up banging your knees or hands etc moving to the smaller holds. Also before the small holds were so few that it was difficult to make route with just small holds. I also asked that they stick on some really small dodgy holds which could be used for feet only. With the normal grips you dont get much foot placement training as anything you can hold on is basically huge for your feet. So if you can have some super tiny or dodge grips this can make for better foot placement training ... and this helps with core.

anyway basically i think having one section dedicated to hard climbing is a good thing ... my opinion :thumleft:
obviously this isn't meant to chase people away...

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Re: Sparseness at City Rock bouldering wall

Post by Pea1nut » Thu Dec 10, 2009 7:42 pm

Its in the process of getting changed. They putting on new grips over the next few days. There will be some bigger ones coming :thumrigh .Also on the 45. Why would you want to put huge grips all over that thing? I agree, a few have there place. But really you climb on that wall to train Power. As for the intresting problems....speak to Paul the head route setter. Ask him if you can set some of your own boulder problems. And when you say interesting, I hope you not meaning those silly arb ones that have you twisting yourself in a knot :) You can also just make up your own ones, I find thats the best :)

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Re: Sparseness at City Rock bouldering wall

Post by robertbreyer » Fri Dec 11, 2009 7:51 am

we just stripped and reset the entire front bouldering wall. its easiest for us to do it in one go.
come check it out - you will be pleasantly surprised!

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Re: Sparseness at City Rock bouldering wall

Post by kyle » Fri Dec 11, 2009 10:24 am

All good, thanks for the replies. Will come in and check it out.

With regards to the 45 I agree that big jugs get in the way of routes - I was just thinking there could be a higher concentration of holds...

Also I probably need to get my buttery ass back in shape anyway.


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