Bright Lights

New Areas. New routes. Retrobolting. Add-ons. Re-grading. etc.
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mullet
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Bright Lights

Post by mullet » Wed Sep 30, 2009 10:25 am

Anyone know the names and grades of any lines on this quite angular piece of rock at Bright Lights, CBD boulders?
Some friends and I climbed two lines, one traversing from bottom right along slopey rails, through the hole and top-out back left, maybe 7a+ish, and one sit-starting middle to top out right front, straight up, maybe 6c/+ish?
Would like to know whether they have names and whether there is anything else there?
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...Chalk is cheap...

Streaky
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Re: Bright Lights

Post by Streaky » Wed Sep 30, 2009 10:35 am

There is a 7C called the Nooner that goes straight up (don't be a sissy and use the arete on the right).

dom
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Re: Bright Lights

Post by dom » Wed Sep 30, 2009 12:57 pm

This is where someone steps in and points out that they did them years ago. In this case, that would be me, but mainly because I don't think that Steve Downing and Mike Janata post here (I'm sure that they did them before me).

The traverse is normally done left to right - can't remember the grade, but not too bad.

The line sitstarting on the slopers and going up and right, dynoing to the lip, is about 6C/+ and was called Kung Fu Flavour.

A nice linkup is doing the traverse into Kung Fu Flavour - maybe 7A/+ish.

The Nooner goes straight up and is a little eliminate - you don't really use the arete, but instead dyno up to a flat hold on the top (a slightly scary, tenuous move) with your left hand, off the slopey crimp. Probably 7C.

There are quite a few good problems up there, but not many of them named - PM me if you need more details.
the fresh prince of darkness

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mullet
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Re: Bright Lights

Post by mullet » Wed Sep 30, 2009 3:45 pm

Thanks Streaky and dom!
Starting to get the picture that this is a pretty full boulder!
The Nooner sounds like fun, but of a dodgy final section but ballsy, good stuff. At least I now know that Kung Fu Flavour doesn't have to be referred to as ???
Interesting to hear that the traverse goes the other way as well, it seems more fluid and slightly more extended to follow it from the right.
...Chalk is cheap...

myself
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Re: Bright Lights

Post by myself » Wed Sep 30, 2009 4:01 pm

Actually, I seem to remember that the nooner was opened and unamed by a german climber whose name i can't remember, he went up to the slopey crimp with his right, then the heinous sharp gaston with his left and topped out at the very top, ie. avoided the arete completely, but yup i think dom might well have opened the traverse and sit start dyno. On the nearby boulder in the direction of devil's peak there's a cool traverse starting on low flake and traversing right across the boulder using an obvious pinch and avoiding the top, and on the big square boulder in the direction of the cable way there are 3 or 4 great problems that top out.

dom
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Re: Bright Lights

Post by dom » Wed Sep 30, 2009 4:37 pm

myself wrote:Actually, I seem to remember that the nooner was opened and unamed by a german climber whose name i can't remember, he went up to the slopey crimp with his right, then the heinous sharp gaston with his left and topped out at the very top, ie. avoided the arete completely, but yup i think dom might well have opened the traverse and sit start dyno. On the nearby boulder in the direction of devil's peak there's a cool traverse starting on low flake and traversing right across the boulder using an obvious pinch and avoiding the top, and on the big square boulder in the direction of the cable way there are 3 or 4 great problems that top out.
Mice-elf could be right - The Nooner was either opened by Johannes (the german), Ningo, Shaun Harris or Serle Shuman. Or someone else entirely. Local legend being what it is, there is no concrete evidence. What is certain is that neither Streaky, myself nor I opened it.

The traverse is also excellent and tricky.

Best problems on TM:
(1) Schadenfreude (on the jeep track boulder) - one of the best problems in Cape Town (if you're tall).
(2) Registered Rhymenecologist (on the tall boulder near the jeep track boulder)
(3) The 7A-ish thing that Streaky talks about (on the boulder down and left from The Nooner boulder)
(4) The traverse that the ginger one refers to (on the boulder up and left from The Nooner boulder)
(5) Papa Lazorou on the Royston Vasey boulder
the fresh prince of darkness

myself
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Re: Bright Lights

Post by myself » Wed Sep 30, 2009 4:57 pm

Noticed a CBD 7b on the 8a updates, 'master fornicator' - which problem is that?

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mullet
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Re: Bright Lights

Post by mullet » Thu Oct 01, 2009 8:39 am

Master fornicator, to my knowledge, is a Scott Noy problem at the Terrace, I think. Its on the same boulder and to the left of a pretty tricky 7a+ called Aneasthesia.
Sit start from a crimpy rail, top out straight up via another crimpy rail. Hope this doesn't start a boulder war, with folk claiming and reclaiming and denouncing route names and setters!
I'm just an explorer of the area, don't take my history knowledge too seriously.
...Chalk is cheap...

dom
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Re: Bright Lights

Post by dom » Thu Oct 01, 2009 8:56 am

mullet wrote:Hope this doesn't start a boulder war, with folk claiming and reclaiming and denouncing route names and setters!
I'm just an explorer of the area, don't take my history knowledge too seriously.
I don't think it'll ever really be an issue - mice-elf and I first climbed a bunch of the problems there approximately 7 years ago, and I know we weren't the first. As I said earlier, Steve, Mike and Serle were putting problems up there before I even knew where the boulders were. Presumably, AdK did everything before them. And someone probably did them before him.

And yet, every few years, someone claims the problems as first ascents..

At some point, we'll have a timeline of first ascents stretching from someone's Hugenot ancestors claiming Schadenfreude in 1689 to some random from CityRock claiming it in 2009.

(That said, my understanding is that mice-elf did actually get the first ascent of Schadenfreude, somewhere back in the mists of 2005 - i'm not bleak about that at all)
the fresh prince of darkness

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The Jimmy
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Re: Bright Lights

Post by The Jimmy » Thu Oct 01, 2009 9:11 am

Anyone have any topos for the boulders other than the Roysten Vasey boulder? Uhm...and how do you get to the Roysten boulder?

dom
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Re: Bright Lights

Post by dom » Thu Oct 01, 2009 9:28 am

The Jimmy wrote:Anyone have any topos for the boulders other than the Roysten Vasey boulder? Uhm...and how do you get to the Roysten boulder?
As far as I know, there aren't any topos, although Stewart Noy was apparently working on some..

The Royston Vasey boulder is below Tafelberg road, park maybe 100m before you park for Bright Lights - it's the big, obvious boulder about 50m below the road.
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ScottS
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Re: Bright Lights

Post by ScottS » Thu Oct 01, 2009 10:07 am

dom wrote:The Royston Vasey boulder is below Tafelberg road, park maybe 100m before you park for Bright Lights - it's the big, obvious boulder about 50m below the road.
Ah yes, that's the boulder where the muggers dump stolen handbags once they've removed the valuables..

I remember some cool problems.

Yes dom, I have eaten a sandwich.
At the chaaaaains boet!!

dom
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Re: Bright Lights

Post by dom » Thu Oct 01, 2009 10:26 am

ScottS wrote:
dom wrote: Yes dom, I have eaten a sandwich.
I will believe that when I see it.
the fresh prince of darkness

JLO
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Re: Bright Lights

Post by JLO » Thu Feb 09, 2012 3:43 pm

climbed "nooner" yesterday..
really curious about the grade, definitely not a 7c..
there is a photo up on the site then its 7b+...
but
wondering because im more in the 7a range, and have yet to climb a 7b..

actually think most cbd boulders are way above their actual supposed difficulty..

'the ear' 7a near nooner also definitely 6c
and papa lazrou also said to be 7b..really maybe only 7a..

not trying to down grade everything, with the whole grade debate already on another form,
and dont climb just for the grades, but its nice to know where you are at, you know...
but honestly found these climbs much easier than its grades would suggest..
places like classroom and redhill (rip?)'s grading standards are waaaay solid,
this cbd ones, no.

Stu
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Re: Bright Lights

Post by Stu » Thu Feb 09, 2012 6:02 pm

mullet wrote:Master fornicator, to my knowledge, is a Scott Noy problem at the Terrace, I think. Its on the same boulder and to the left of a pretty tricky 7a+ called Aneasthesia.
Sit start from a crimpy rail, top out straight up via another crimpy rail. Hope this doesn't start a boulder war, with folk claiming and reclaiming and denouncing route names and setters!
I'm just an explorer of the area, don't take my history knowledge too seriously.
That's pretty well spot on :wink: (apart from the spelling; Anesthesia)

NickT
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Re: Bright Lights

Post by NickT » Fri Feb 10, 2012 12:33 am

Here is some info.....
The Nooner has had some talking about the grades...it seems to have settled at around 7B+..still haven't sent it but will someday when I return ;)
The traverse on the same boulder (see pic on first post) has been named Afternoon Delight and has been given (a soft imho) 7A+....it traverses from right to left...The opposite traverse I don't think has a name and also (imho) seems to be a bit easier than Afternoon Delight....
There are topo pages for the Terrace and Bright Lights that have been very selectively handed out by Stewart Noy for grade confirmations and come from his in process Cape Town Bouldering guide...I doubt the people that have copies of these will distribute them as Stewart has asked that they don't get handed out to every Tom, Dick, and Harry (and hence making his guide null and void).
The boulder about 50m to the right of the nooner where 'the ear' can be found has a few cool lines....firstly...'the ear' is aka Purgatory and is graded at about 6C+/7A and follows the flake system diagonally left...with the same start and escaping out right is a 6B/6B+ which hasnt been named. On the arete to the right of Purgatory is a 7A+ called Silent Anne that has been given 7A+ and if you continue around the corner to the next arete there is a very obvious vertical crack. This is a 7A+ called Cross Purpose and climbs the arete then moves left into the scoops and tops out straight up. The terrace has some cool problems especially Anasthesia and The Battle of the Golden Spurs (both 7A+) and both a little complex to describe...PM me if you want the info and are prepared for the epic bundu bash to get there ;)
To the left of the nooner boulder are some cool climbs...there is a 7A traverse, a 6B and a 6C that I know of.
Hope this helps a little....
as a side note....I did not FA any of these problems and I did not name any of them... ;)

JLO
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Re: Bright Lights

Post by JLO » Fri Feb 10, 2012 8:22 am

traversing from right to left is an excellent climb, 4 stars in my book, love the ending. but its more around 6c..
from left to right is definitely bit harder, maybe that deserves a 7a..but 6c+ for a good grade.haha.
have yet to try 'silent ann', need some cold weather for those slopers..
'cross purpose' was pretty cool, scary last move :pukel: , but not 7a+... maybe 6c.
not trying to down grade, just interested because either im getting better very quickly or these supposed grades are faiirly soft

JLO
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Re: Bright Lights

Post by JLO » Fri Feb 10, 2012 8:23 am

nick...

sent you a pm

NickT
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Re: Bright Lights

Post by NickT » Sat Feb 11, 2012 5:11 pm

Sent a reply Jaco... Purgatory is probably softish but I think Cross Purpose is pretty well graded...you may find that your style of climbing suits those problems well and may be a reason for your views and you may have lucked into pretty good conditions :) Have you climbed on the Roysten Vasey boulder..Papa Lazaru is excellent (probably only 7A though) and Legz Akimbo has some of the sweetest drop knees around...really good line...Babz Cabs looks good and Aqua Vitae is pretty fun :) there is lots of good stuff around there :) If you want to project something try The Visionary (7C) which links Herr Lip into Papa Lazaru..gave it a half hearted attempt when i was last in CT and found it to be pretty good but couldnt do it.
Enjoy

stingrei
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Re: Bright Lights

Post by stingrei » Tue Apr 26, 2016 11:27 am

Good day all
Serle Shuman and I actually had a slick guide to problems found and opened (exclusing garron fish's boulder which Guy H found) dating back to 2007-ish for the City Boulderingg District including Deer Park and Lights areas. We may be missing some problems or variations. Ill put out an updated guide for comment over next weeks and invite xomment to fill it out. Ciao Steve

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