WolfMother's Wallpaper 21,A0 [14D,A]

New Areas. New routes. Retrobolting. Add-ons. Re-grading. etc.
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Joined: Sat Apr 30, 2005 8:31 am
Real Name: Justin Lawson
Location: Montagu

WolfMother's Wallpaper 21,A0 [14D,A]

Post by Justin » Thu Feb 19, 2009 11:25 am


The route is situated on a clean face midway between A TIME TO CLIMB and LONG BOLT TO FREEDOM. There is a faint inverted V crack line (gable) which marks the start of the climb. This fun route incorporates a full assortment of varied climbing in which the grade remains fairly consistent throughout. Although the route has seen some extensive cleaning, it is still advisable to wear a helmet (as Wolfmother’s wallpaper might peel off occasional). The route also seems to be more sheltered from the wind than those on the north-west side of the mountain.

Co-ordinates (S 28˚ 23.379 E029˚ 16.658’) – (this is actually on the grass ledge (pitch 5), but should get one in the right vicinity)

1. 21 [9D,A] 14m Climb the left hand hypotenuse of the inverted V crack line until the apex. Continue straight up for a few meters further until the hanging belay is reached.

2. 21 [9D,A] 16m Continue up the face, slightly right of the open book, using some bold moves until just before the first overhang is reached.

Note** Combining the first two pitches is possible if the guns are loaded and carrying 21 draws is not a problem.

3. A0 [5D,A] 8m Several bolts have been placed just over the lip of the overhang in order to assist with aiding. One needs to stand in some long slings and pull on a quick draw or two, in order to gain access to the anchors above.

Note** In future, it is hope that this section can be bypassed by bolting a line which traverses out to the left and back again.

Note**. Freeing this pitch might be in the mid 20’ies, so give it a burn.

4. 21 [14D,A] 28m This pitch incorporates a cruxy technical section of approximately 5m near the bottom. The grade then starts to ease off. Traverse out to the right one bolt before the abseil anchors to reduce drag for the next traverse pitch or continue up straight if attempting the roof.

5. 18 [8D,A] 15m Climb the rib on the right of the overhang section. Traverse out left above the second large roof, once you have pulled through the lip on some large holds. This fun pitch provides some exposed climbing (which can be interesting if the wind is howling).

Note** A more direct approach (which has been bolted) is to climb straight through the overhand thereby averting the transverse across the top of the roof. Grade 22 ???.

6. 18 [10D,A] 25m Scramble to the base of the top section of the cliff. Climb the face leading onto some protruding rock features (to the right of the big nose). Tricky take-off move.

7. 16 [4D,A] 8m Climb through a bulge on the right from which the top is reached.

** Note: Possible to combine these 2 pitches but there will be a bit of rope drag on the top section.

**General Notes:
Abseiling: A 60m rope will reduce the number of abseils. There are several combined pitches which reach exactly 30m (take care and knot the ends) – it takes 4 abs to get off.
It should be possible to ab off using only 1 50m rope by abbing only one pitch at a time.
With 2 50m ropes, it should be possible to get off in 3 abs.
White dots denote chains for abbing, yellow dots, belay station without chains.

First Ascent: Roland Magg & Günther Bargon (Jan 2009)
WolfMother' Wallpaper, Swinburne - 21,A0 [14D,A]
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WolfMother's Wallpaper 21,A0 [14D,A]
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