### Gospel Express revisited

Posted:

**Wed Jul 18, 2007 4:01 pm**I read the previous thread and flames with some interest. True, climbers who routinely climb in the mid to high 20’s are unable to grade routes below 21 with any sort of accuracy. The best measure (in my opinion) would be to ask a large enough sample of climbers for whom these grades are at or near their limit. This has prompted me to through my hat into the ring on this emotive subject.

Flame me all you want, what I’m sharing is my interpretation of statistical data from my old coaching files.

I reviewed each climber on the different routes as they worked through the grades from novice up to grade 24. Each climber’s file had their grades mapped out according to Dale Goddard’s performance pyramid. The factors I took into account included: number of tries before redpoint; ease of movement through crux sequences; current shape of the individual’s pyramid.

Number of climbers: 95

Period: 1995 to 2002 (7 years)

Height of climbers: 1.2m to 1.8m (average 1.65m)

Using the assumption that Mild Thing at Legoland is a grade 15, then the data indicates the following:

Legoland:

Life & Times of Mike Hunt is 1 grade easier; i.e. 14.

Not with new brim is 1 grade harder; i.e. 16.

Easy does it is 1 grade harder; i.e. 16.

Pipe dreams is 2 grades harder; i.e. 17.

Chocolate Speedway is 3 grades harder; i.e. 18.

Hey, come on is 1 grade harder than Speedway; i.e. 19.

Oh my goodness is the same as Hey, come on; i.e. 19.

Chaud Rochet (starts at Pipe dreams an ends at Speedway’s anchors) is the same as Speedway; i.e. 18.

Thimbles (Start as for Pipe dreams and go straight up the crack) is 2 grades easier than Mike hunt; i.e. 12.

Steeple:

Gospel express is 1 grade easier than Speedway; i.e. 17.

Quasimodo (Ed’s route on the left) is 1 grade harder than Gospel express (the crimps in the middle); i.e. 18.

Rest of Montagu

Then, using the assumption that Eddy of Bovidence is a 24 and Andy’s Route No1 is a 21, then the data indicates the following:

Reborn at Heaven is 1 grade easier than Route no1 at Far Side; i.e. 20.

Elephant hitmen at the Alley is 2 grades easier than Eddy of bovidence; i.e. 22.

Justice for all at Lost world is 2 grades easier than Eddy; i.e. 22.

Brandenberg gate at Berlin wall is 1 grade easier than Route no1 at Far Side; i.e. 20.

Flame me all you want, what I’m sharing is my interpretation of statistical data from my old coaching files.

I reviewed each climber on the different routes as they worked through the grades from novice up to grade 24. Each climber’s file had their grades mapped out according to Dale Goddard’s performance pyramid. The factors I took into account included: number of tries before redpoint; ease of movement through crux sequences; current shape of the individual’s pyramid.

Number of climbers: 95

Period: 1995 to 2002 (7 years)

Height of climbers: 1.2m to 1.8m (average 1.65m)

Using the assumption that Mild Thing at Legoland is a grade 15, then the data indicates the following:

Legoland:

Life & Times of Mike Hunt is 1 grade easier; i.e. 14.

Not with new brim is 1 grade harder; i.e. 16.

Easy does it is 1 grade harder; i.e. 16.

Pipe dreams is 2 grades harder; i.e. 17.

Chocolate Speedway is 3 grades harder; i.e. 18.

Hey, come on is 1 grade harder than Speedway; i.e. 19.

Oh my goodness is the same as Hey, come on; i.e. 19.

Chaud Rochet (starts at Pipe dreams an ends at Speedway’s anchors) is the same as Speedway; i.e. 18.

Thimbles (Start as for Pipe dreams and go straight up the crack) is 2 grades easier than Mike hunt; i.e. 12.

Steeple:

Gospel express is 1 grade easier than Speedway; i.e. 17.

Quasimodo (Ed’s route on the left) is 1 grade harder than Gospel express (the crimps in the middle); i.e. 18.

Rest of Montagu

Then, using the assumption that Eddy of Bovidence is a 24 and Andy’s Route No1 is a 21, then the data indicates the following:

Reborn at Heaven is 1 grade easier than Route no1 at Far Side; i.e. 20.

Elephant hitmen at the Alley is 2 grades easier than Eddy of bovidence; i.e. 22.

Justice for all at Lost world is 2 grades easier than Eddy; i.e. 22.

Brandenberg gate at Berlin wall is 1 grade easier than Route no1 at Far Side; i.e. 20.