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Route at Kalk Bay
Posted: Mon Nov 13, 2006 12:24 pm
Does anyone know anything about the route/project right of Lunchin' Urchin (15m left of Pocket Rocket)? It starts the same as LU, then goes right up a thin seam.
Posted: Mon Nov 13, 2006 4:44 pm
The line is a very old proj of mine. I believe Marijus has already sent it. The bolts are completely in the wrong place, I have applied for and received permission to rebolt it but only on condition I use glue ins. I am trying to access better quality pins than those I have at the moment in order to fix the bolt placements.
The route is called Bipod and is 27/8???? (actually Ive got no idea) not bad moves, feel free to climb it as is, just be prepared for nasty swinging whippers! In fact if you get on it please feedback re: where you think the new bolt placements should be (I assume slightly right of and under the seam/pods) I would appreciate input on this.
Other new lines in the area are: at Dockside crag right of Stowaway: Wide Ride about 23? (one move). At Cling Thing cave either side of Cling Thing; on the left Hang Thang 20, on the right Kill Bill 23.
Posted: Mon Nov 13, 2006 6:29 pm
i have tried the line years ago but haven't sent it.
unless i missed something crucial, it's going to be very, very hard. 8C boulder hard.
Posted: Mon Nov 13, 2006 6:39 pm
WOW! Ouch! So much for my fond hopes of getting back on it this autumn!!
Posted: Tue Nov 14, 2006 8:49 am
Thanks for the info - it looks really cool.
Incidentally, the line I bolted right of Pocket Rocket is an open project. It's really just one hard move - and being tall is not a disadvantage. Evan got close on his first try.
Regarding the Dockside - the route furthest right (26 in the guide). I climbed the logical line (ie using the crack to start - and the jug 10cm right of the crack) and it felt like 23. Is it a super-eliminate or is it a typo in the guide?
Posted: Tue Nov 14, 2006 11:18 am
It is an eliminate, there is a 19 that uses the jugs right of the crack and fires straight up the wall that we toproped and intended to bolt, but its a bit of a jughaul and not very interesting, so I havent bothered using up my precious hardware on it. Strictly speaking Import Tax 26 ignores the jugs right of the crack, feel free to climb any of these problems anyway you want though, try doing diagonal links on the wall left of this route - fun. Btw the second bolt on Import Tax is another tax up I intend fixing (bloody hard to clip!) along with the first bolt on Piracy which is not in line with the move.