shoes for indoor climbing

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sahareela
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shoes for indoor climbing

Post by sahareela » Mon Jul 08, 2013 8:55 am

What kind of climbing shoes should I get for indoor climbing? I've recently gotten into indoor climbing and I was wondering what kind of climbing shoes to get. Price isn't an object. I know 5:10 is a good company but I don't know of other companies that are good. They make so many different types, I have no idea what kind I should get. Any information is great.
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Thermophage
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Re: shoes for indoor climbing

Post by Thermophage » Mon Jul 08, 2013 9:07 am

The La Sportiva Speedsters if you can get hold of a pair. They are incredible for both indoors and outdoors. THey take a little getting used to as they have a "pre-rounded" toes, but climb unbelievably well. Also, because of the pre-rounded toe, they last a lot longer, especially if you climb inside a lot (which...by the way you should minimise and come climb OUTSIDE rather) :D

wesleywt
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Re: shoes for indoor climbing

Post by wesleywt » Mon Jul 08, 2013 9:13 am

I would go for something cheap. The walls chow your shoes really quickly compared to climbing on rock.

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Thermophage
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Re: shoes for indoor climbing

Post by Thermophage » Mon Jul 08, 2013 9:18 am

wesleywt wrote:I would go for something cheap. The walls chow your shoes really quickly compared to climbing on rock.
Cheap is relative at this point. The price diff between cheap shoes which are kak (like R900) vs ones which are pretty damn good (The Shamans for R1100 or so), vs the Speedsters for R100 from CampnClimb ... Anyway, my 10c worth :)

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Nic Le Maitre
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Re: shoes for indoor climbing

Post by Nic Le Maitre » Mon Jul 08, 2013 10:33 am

It sounds like this will be your first pair of shoes, so my advice would be to go for something cheaper and with a flat sole rather than the really expensive, soft rubber with a really aggressive curved sole. When you start out, generally you will be climbing vertical rather than overhanging routes, so you won't need the highly curved (and uncomfortable) shoes. Also your technique will be poor and you'll tend to drag your toes, wearing out your shoes faster.

Once you've climbed for a while you'll have a better idea of what you want in a shoe. Then you can invest.
Happy climbing
Nic

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Thermophage
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Re: shoes for indoor climbing

Post by Thermophage » Mon Jul 08, 2013 11:22 am

No man Nic! :shock: That's wasting money. Never buy entry level shoes. I am sorry I ever did. You should rather go find a pair os better performing shoes that are comfortable. Like I mentioned above the price difference is not much now, especially if you're looking at Evolv shoes. And you'l get far more benefit climbing in a good shoe than an entry level one. Don't believe anyone telling you that you need to fit it super small. I reckon if you can keep it on and walk around in it for like 15 min you're all good ;) The Evolv Shaman's you can almost upsize from your street shoe, but they're not great for really on balance slabs. But work perfectly well on anything from vertical to horizontal :)
If you buy entry level and find you enjoy climbing and would like better shoes then you end up having to buy twice...So buy once and get something that works properly.

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Justin
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Re: shoes for indoor climbing

Post by Justin » Mon Jul 08, 2013 1:07 pm

sahareela wrote:What kind of climbing shoes should I get for indoor climbing?
A comfortable kind :thumleft:

I agree with Nic that the Speedsters are probably not the most suitable shoes for a beginner in the climbing gym.

Leather vs synthetic:
Most leather shoes will stretch almost 1 size larger after a period of time and mold themselves around your foot (which is good if you are spending an hour or more with your shoes on). They generally speaking also hold less of an odor.
Synthetic shoes will not stretch (noticeably).

Velcro, laces, slippers:
Laces take longer to put on.
Velcro and slippers are quick, but you may not get the same secure fit (as laces) - this is person dependent.

Rubber:
There are differences but you will probably never notice!

Don't concern yourself with 'beginner' or 'advanced shoes' at this time. It's good to own more than one pair of shoes and alternate between them depending on the type of climbing that you are doing at the time.
Be sure to try on different climbing shoes and walk around in them, stand up on the toe section to measure comfort. Check for air pockets (dead spots) inside the shoe (this is an indication that the shoe design does suit your foot shape).
Ask the sales person at the store to assist you with trying different shoes on - most climbing shops have knowledgeable sales people who are themselves climbers.

As above: Can't stress it enough, get shoes that are comfortable.

Mountain Mail Order have a good selection of shoes.
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Thermophage
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Re: shoes for indoor climbing

Post by Thermophage » Mon Jul 08, 2013 3:44 pm

Nooooo...Speedsters are great starting shoe and gym shoe...They're cheap (at the moment...but not sure on availability) :P
They're comfortable, they're soft, so they will help your foot muscles develop well. The rubber lasts very long compared to a traditional edging shoe. Sure, in pics they look super aggressive and downturned...until you put them on and realize you stand flat-footed on the ground.
But yeah...if you have the opportunity, go try on as many shoes as you can...and buy the best shoe you can afford in a comfortable size. But I would still shy away from so called "beginner" shoes.

illona
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Re: shoes for indoor climbing

Post by illona » Mon Jul 08, 2013 4:24 pm

Cheap is relative at this point. The price diff between cheap shoes which are kak (like R900) vs ones which are pretty damn good (The Shamans for R1100 or so), vs the Speedsters for R100 from CampnClimb ... Anyway, my 10c worth :)
*blink blink* Did I read that right? R100?????

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Thermophage
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Re: shoes for indoor climbing

Post by Thermophage » Mon Jul 08, 2013 4:27 pm

illona wrote:
Cheap is relative at this point. The price diff between cheap shoes which are kak (like R900) vs ones which are pretty damn good (The Shamans for R1100 or so), vs the Speedsters for R100 from CampnClimb ... Anyway, my 10c worth :)
*blink blink* Did I read that right? R100?????
Might have left out a zero there ;) But I manages to pic up a pair for liek R450 at the sale not too long ago. I hope they keep bringing them into the country. They climb unbelievably well...

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mountainmailorder
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Re: shoes for indoor climbing

Post by mountainmailorder » Mon Jul 08, 2013 8:52 pm

Buy the ones that fit best, so try on a few different pairs.

La Sportiva make a lot of great shoes with good all-round appeal, but the Speedster wasn't one of them. It lasted one season and then it was gone. We sold about 3 pairs and that was it. Slippers in general don't do well in SA.

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Thermophage
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Re: shoes for indoor climbing

Post by Thermophage » Mon Jul 08, 2013 8:59 pm

I wonder why they sold poorly. To be honest, if more people had actually tried to climb in them they'd probably have been converted. I pretty much never use my Solutions anymore, or Shamans, or Quantums...etc :P anyhoo...Ones that fit your feet the best is excellent advice from MMO...go try on shoes!

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