Fingerboard

Techniques for all kinds of climbing, Learn new moves. Share your training secrets, find out how other people are getting strong, and get motivated!
Danie
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Joined: Tue Feb 12, 2008 7:58 pm

Fingerboard

Postby Danie » Tue Feb 12, 2008 8:32 pm

Does anybody out there know were I can get a good fingerboard...and which desighn to get :?:

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proze
Posts: 389
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Real Name: Paul P
Location: CT

Postby proze » Wed Feb 13, 2008 11:02 am

Hi Danie.

I'm enjoying my Gecko Hangdog: http://www.geckogrips.co.za/hangdog.html

I haven't used it a huge amount due to a finger injury (cooking & big knife, not climbing ;) ) but it seems like a good product. And local means affordable!

Cheers!

Guy
Posts: 265
Joined: Tue May 03, 2005 12:48 pm
Real Name: Guy Holwill
Location: Cape Town

Postby Guy » Wed Feb 13, 2008 12:56 pm

I think that you need to choose a finger board that is:

A) Relevant to the rock you climb on (eg a board with millions of pockets is useless if you climb at the Restaurant)
B) Relevant to your ability

The Gecko board is good for beginner and intermediate level climbers, whereas the Moon finger board has much smaller holds and is consequently more relevant to top-level climbers.

The Moon finger board is obviously much more expensive.
There's no point being pessimistic, because it probably won't work

Danie
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Joined: Tue Feb 12, 2008 7:58 pm

Postby Danie » Wed Feb 13, 2008 7:00 pm

Thanx Proze for the link...do appriciate. I take it i can get that from Dave at Mountain Mail Order. I must say it looks like it will cover Montagu rock....like the pinch on it.

Try some arnica oil on your finger,..trust me it works.. 8)

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proze
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Postby proze » Wed Feb 13, 2008 9:07 pm

I bought mine straight from Gecko. I ordered and did an EFT and they shipped it to me.

Thanks for the tip. My digit is mostly healed now so hopefully I can get on with some training.

Guy
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Real Name: Guy Holwill
Location: Cape Town

Postby Guy » Thu Feb 14, 2008 9:38 am

Do the new Gecko Boards still have the protruding gecko logo below the jugs? My board had these, but I filed them off because they used to dig holes in my wrists when I did pull-ups on the jugs.
There's no point being pessimistic, because it probably won't work

dom
Posts: 188
Joined: Fri May 06, 2005 7:49 am

Re:

Postby dom » Thu Feb 14, 2008 12:44 pm

Guy wrote:Do the new Gecko Boards still have the protruding gecko logo below the jugs? My board had these, but I filed them off because they used to dig holes in my wrists when I did pull-ups on the jugs.


Maybe you just need to get stronger? Or see a doctor?

Just a thought.
the fresh prince of darkness

Guy
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Real Name: Guy Holwill
Location: Cape Town

Postby Guy » Thu Feb 14, 2008 12:53 pm

I forgot to mention to that I used my baby fingernail to file the logo's off.

I had to get rid of them because people kept asking me if the marks were stigmata...
There's no point being pessimistic, because it probably won't work

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proze
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Location: CT

Postby proze » Thu Feb 14, 2008 1:02 pm

Wahahaha!

Still got the raised Geckos, yip. But they haven't bothered me.

Guy
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Real Name: Guy Holwill
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Postby Guy » Thu Feb 14, 2008 1:09 pm

But are you doing 10 sets of 100 pulls in a session? 5 sessions per week?

Hehehehehe
There's no point being pessimistic, because it probably won't work

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extremely south african
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Real Name: Wayne Thompson
Location: benoni
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Re: Fingerboard

Postby extremely south african » Wed Nov 23, 2011 3:46 pm

The moonstones board is cheaper than most. Jugs at the top and pretty positive so suitable for any climber. Middle crimps are challenging but doable. the lower ones are for the hardcore.

http://www.climbingwall.co.za/index.php ... t&Itemid=4
Waynarky
Extremely South African
www.climbingwalls.co.za

AdK
Posts: 19
Joined: Fri Oct 27, 2006 10:18 am

Re: Fingerboard

Postby AdK » Wed Nov 23, 2011 5:16 pm

Beastmaker 2000 expensive, but hands down the best thing out there to get you strong, but if used incorrectly can break you (some of SA's top have fallen victim to this thing)

Chris F
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Joined: Fri Sep 22, 2006 1:45 pm
Location: Aberdeen, Scotland

Re: Fingerboard

Postby Chris F » Wed Nov 23, 2011 5:27 pm

I love the beastmaker and think wooden boards are the way as they don't trash your skin / you can still train on them with trashed skin.

Still a bloody boring activity though, if it's not set up in front of the telly.

paulgoddard
Posts: 13
Joined: Wed Nov 23, 2011 6:47 pm
Real Name: paulgoddard

Re: Fingerboard

Postby paulgoddard » Wed Nov 23, 2011 7:16 pm

check out the ones at City Rock if you are in Cape Town. The big shiny wooden one hanging on the wall behind the till with the SOLD sign on is mine.
i had the gecko one but it would eat the skin on my pinkie and ring finger when doing dead hangs. Badly, like peel 3mm of skin off badly, making it impossible to complete a 20 min workout. and i thought my hands were tough.
i have done a few sessions on Guy's wooden beast maker and i can say that it is much easier on the skin. City Rock's equivalent looks like the closest thing to that at half the price.
it should be in my scullery by at least the 1st half of 2012......

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brianweaver
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Real Name: Brian Weaver
Location: Pretoria
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Re: Fingerboard

Postby brianweaver » Wed Nov 23, 2011 8:03 pm

Wooden boards are the way to go, but the Wood Grips boards tend to have too large of holds to be effective when pushing for hard training. I have the Metolius Simulator and it has a large variety of grips. I love it.

The Moonstones board lacks enough variety of holds to be good for training. I am very strong with deadhangs, pullups and all the other training methods and yet I find that this board is inadequate. You can basically crimp on it.

Beastmakers are the Bugati Veyron of boards, you get what you pay for.

Most important thing is to ensure you warm up properly and don't push too hard until your body is ready to take the abuse. It is a very good way to progress from 25 upwards, take care of your fingers if you're not climbing hard consistently...
I hate this real world place... I'd be more than happy to live out there rather...

maxmartini
Posts: 4
Joined: Tue Nov 24, 2009 6:10 pm

Re: Fingerboard

Postby maxmartini » Wed Nov 23, 2011 9:28 pm

If you are in Cape Town, you can get hold of Olaf De Wet on 0845150857 who will make you a costom wooden hangboard.
I have tested them out myself and they are the most finger friendly boards I have used, made from quality wood. He has made some boards with super interesting and useful features that one generally would not find on regular hangboards, but as they are costom one can choose what ever one would like. Olaf will make it all.


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