Another Day in Paradise (21), Montagu

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Hendrik
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Another Day in Paradise (21), Montagu

Postby Hendrik » Tue Nov 06, 2007 2:20 pm

Can anybody tell me more about this multipitch sport route in Montagu. How hard is the 2nd pitch? Is it ok to climb with one rope? and Rope length.

My partner in I have been climbing now for 18 months and really want to do a multipitch. Group of us is going in first week in december. He is better than me and can push a 24. I am confortable on 19-20 but have done a 21 and 23. Just dont want to get stuck on that one pitch.

According to Tony Lourens book the pitches are
1. 23m 10 5b
2. 30m 21 13b
3. 20m 18 7b
4. 30m 17 9b
5. 20m 12 5b
6. 25m 19 11b
7. 20m 17 9b

Also sais 60m rope is fine and can abseil straight down.

Any other advise and recomendations is welcome please!
What ever you do... don't look down...

Russell Warren
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Postby Russell Warren » Tue Nov 06, 2007 2:29 pm

Why don't you start on the 4 pitch 19 next door to it?

Hendrik
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Postby Hendrik » Tue Nov 06, 2007 10:20 pm

I know :D . Maybe i should. But everybody says another day in paradise is the one to do. Think i will be fine on than pitch. Anybody an idea how long the route will take?
What ever you do... don't look down...

Russell Warren
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Postby Russell Warren » Wed Nov 07, 2007 7:19 am

I have not done the 21 yet, but am told that it has been rigged for a 60m rope for abseiling off i.e. a set of anchors every 30m. Contact Stuart Brown at Die Bos. I think he bolted it.

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Justin
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Postby Justin » Wed Nov 07, 2007 9:16 am

Russell is correct, 60m rope will get you up and down, no problems - don't forget to tie a knot in the end of the rope.
The 2nd pitch is 21ish and if you do come off, you'll most certainly be able to do the moves after having taken a short rest (you say you're comfortable on 19/20) - the route is also well bolted so you can climb bolt to bolt if needs be.

Take a head torch just in case :twisted:
It's a great route :D
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Hendrik
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Postby Hendrik » Wed Nov 07, 2007 9:43 am

Thanks alot! Will post the result of this little trip soon and mayb send you a photo Justin. Looking forward to it! :?
What ever you do... don't look down...

stuboy
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Postby stuboy » Wed Nov 07, 2007 9:47 pm

hi Hendrik. A nice combination is to do the first two pitches of Magical Mystery Tour and then after the left hand traverse there is a bolt linking the two routes. This bolt will take you to the stance above the 21 pitch of Another Day In Paradise. Have a look on page 123 of Western Cape Rock, where the routes come closest together that is where you can cross over. This way you have a constant 17 - 19 grade 8 pitch climb, really lekker. Enjoy! Stuart.

Hendrik
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Postby Hendrik » Wed Nov 07, 2007 10:50 pm

Hi Stuart! I was waiting for you to make a reply! :D Were going to email you 2nite about the climb. We coming to Montagu from the 3rd to the 5th of december. If all goes as planned. Will come pop in and get some more info from you! Thanks for the advice!
What ever you do... don't look down...

RUPTO
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Re: Another Day in Paradise (21), Montagu

Postby RUPTO » Mon Mar 30, 2009 10:14 am

Hi Hendrik,
Did you end up doing Another Day...
Any tips for another first timer
Thanx

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Justin
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Re: Another Day in Paradise (21), Montagu

Postby Justin » Mon Mar 30, 2009 10:44 am

The route is pretty straight forward:
Start early (its not fun being caught in the sun)
Tie knots in the end of your rope when coming down
Take a camera
If you're climbing the grade you won't have any problems :thumleft:

I took this pic from Aasvoëlkrans ridge - Climber on Another Day in Paradise
Image
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XMod
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Re: Another Day in Paradise (21), Montagu

Postby XMod » Mon Mar 30, 2009 12:15 pm

The link up is great fun and keeps the grade consistent throughout the route. One thing that has not been mentioned is the wind. This crag really picks it up! Starting the route early in the day helps. If its windy when abseiling off carry your rope with you stuffed into a day pack or tie the pack to ends to weight it and lower it off. This saves your ropes disappearing horizontally and snagging on some out of reach obstacle.

Gaston
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Re: Another Day in Paradise (21), Montagu

Postby Gaston » Mon Mar 30, 2009 12:54 pm

This is an awesome route and well worth doing. The crux isn't too hectic and if you get stuck, you could always yank on a draw...
But seriously - TIE KNOTS IN THE ENDS OF YOUR ROPE when you ab off the route.


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