Dale Goddard’s Progression Pyramid
Simplistically, the pyramid works like this:
If you want to climb a 24, you need a pyramid base like this:
2 x grade 23 routes
4 x grade 22 routes
8 x grade 21 routes
For your second 24 start a new base.
Below grade 21 you also need a foundation of a number of routes. The number of routes in your foundation will vary from person to person and will have to be worked out during a session with your coach.
The same system works for your boulder problems.
If your pyramid is too tall and skinny, your chances of injury are drastically increased. And if you build a wide base before a road trip, (eg 8 x 24’s) then you will have the engrams to be able to nail 26 and 27 while away.
If you’re serious about improving your climbing, hire yourself a coach and be prepared to work really hard. Your coach does not have to be a stronger climber than you, just a “detached” outside perspective on your performance and potential. Look at Chris Carmichael and that man Lance on the bike.
Techniques for all kinds of climbing, Learn new moves. Share your training secrets, find out how other people are getting strong, and get motivated!
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