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Should you clip the belay as your first lead pro?

Posted: Tue Jan 10, 2017 8:07 pm
by PeterHS
Hi all. Did anyone see this article in Rock and Ice?

http://www.rockandice.com/climbing-gear ... t-lead-pro

Any thoughts or comments? I'd be interested to hear your thoughts and opinions.

Ciao,

Peter

Re: Should you clip the belay as your first lead pro?

Posted: Tue Jan 10, 2017 9:50 pm
by SNORT
Essential to reduce the fall factor and always clip the belay but obviously only if the anchor is above the waist of the belayer or to the side. Also the anchor must be bomber. If not, then it is a moot point.

Re: Should you clip the belay as your first lead pro?

Posted: Wed Jan 11, 2017 9:20 am
by Hector
Hard moves just above a stance are dangerous (due to high fall factors) and its worth being aware of this when building a stance. Sometimes you can end the previous pitch lower down so the leader has more rope out when at the hard bit. Or keep climbing through the hard bit before stancing so you have a full pitch of rope out. If either of these aren't an option you can build a stance below the hard bit and then lower down from it a ways and tie off with a clove hitch. Now the leader can clip the anchor to protect the hard moves, the belayer is out of the way of a fall, the fall factor is reduced, and the belayer will get pulled up in a fall. As Snort says, even if the moves above the stance are easy its a good idea to clip the stance.