Alpine Butterfly

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Justin
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Alpine Butterfly

Post by Justin » Mon Oct 03, 2016 11:34 am

The Alpine Butterfly is an excellent mid-line knot. This means it can be set part way along a rope to create a loop that can be loaded in any direction. With this use, both strands of the original rope can still be loaded in any direction.

See this link for more :arrow: http://www.ropelab.com.au/the-awesome-alpine-butterfly/
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Nic Le Maitre
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Re: Alpine Butterfly

Post by Nic Le Maitre » Mon Oct 03, 2016 1:12 pm

Using the alpine to exclude the double fishermans is a great way to make sure you can untie the fisherman's afterwards, since it never really gets loaded. Probably overkill though since you could just tie the butterfly with the ends of the rope and leave them loose.
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Nic

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Xharlie
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Re: Alpine Butterfly

Post by Xharlie » Tue Oct 04, 2016 4:38 pm

Nic, why would you do that instead of just using an EDDK to join the ropes, which would have a properly flat edge?

hendriks
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Re: Alpine Butterfly

Post by hendriks » Tue Oct 04, 2016 5:14 pm

@Xharlie, would use this for rigging/rope access or rescue when joining two ropes and you want a tie in loop. Would NOT use this for general abseil/kloofing etc. Nice trick to know though

edit: also useful to attach a 3'rd/4'th etc person(s) to a rope when climbing or doing glacier travel etc.

PeterHS
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Re: Alpine Butterfly

Post by PeterHS » Tue Oct 04, 2016 6:24 pm

hendriks wrote:@Xharlie, would use this for rigging/rope access or rescue when joining two ropes and you want a tie in loop. Would NOT use this for general abseil/kloofing etc. Nice trick to know though

edit: also useful to attach a 3'rd/4'th etc person(s) to a rope when climbing or doing glacier travel etc.
Hendricks, just be pedantic for the sake of clarity ... as confusion on knots has led to serious incident elsewhere (e.g. Flat overhand bend v Flat figure of eight bend) ....

What did you refer to by "this"? The alpine butterfly? The alpine butterfly with the double fishermans? The EDDK? (Or was this the EDK?).

A useful thread so let's continue with it.

Peter

hendriks
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Re: Alpine Butterfly

Post by hendriks » Tue Oct 04, 2016 9:39 pm

"This" in my post above would refer to the topic of this discussion, namely the Alpine Butterfly.

We have a nice saying in afrikaans: 'n Goeie begrip... :thumright

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Nic Le Maitre
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Re: Alpine Butterfly

Post by Nic Le Maitre » Wed Oct 05, 2016 8:52 am

The butterfly with the double fisherman's gives you a loop to clip in to while passing the knot. Again, useful for rescue or somewhere that pulling the rope is not an issue. For kloofing/climbing when you will be pulling the rope, the flat overhand or the double flat overhand are my choice.
Happy climbing
Nic

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Gustav
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Re: Alpine Butterfly

Post by Gustav » Wed Oct 05, 2016 11:14 am

"If you can't make the right knots, make lots!?"
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Xharlie
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Re: Alpine Butterfly

Post by Xharlie » Wed Oct 05, 2016 4:25 pm

Ah. I didn't think about the usefulness of the loop for passing the knot.

I have used the Alpine butterfly in the past for attaching people to a rope for crossing crevassed terrain. The article suggests using it for the middle-man but we have always used it for the whole party. (The people on the ends of the column take several metres as coils around their torsos, anyway, so they are nowhere near the ends of the rope itself.)

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