Need help?

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Kylie99
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Joined: Fri Jun 15, 2018 8:30 am
Real Name: Kylie Kylie

Need help?

Post by Kylie99 » Tue Jun 19, 2018 9:24 am

I recently climbed my first multi-pitch, but what was more scary than going up was coming down. When I lead I have the comfort of knowing that if I fall and a bolt lets go, I have another couple below me.

BUT while I was hooked in at the chains watching my buddy abseil down, the chains made a thrilling creaking sound and the idea struck me. If these two bolts let go (there are only two bolts) I'm following you down (there's a song in there somewhere).

Is there anything to do to make it safer or should I just shut and enjoy the ride?

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Justin
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Real Name: Justin Lawson
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Re: Need help?

Post by Justin » Tue Jun 19, 2018 10:40 am

Bolts don't let go... :P
Before I answer further, which mutli pitch where you climbing ?
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ultrarunnerza
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Joined: Tue Jun 19, 2018 10:59 am
Real Name: Pieter

Re: Need help?

Post by ultrarunnerza » Tue Jun 19, 2018 11:02 am

The chances of both bolts failing on your weight are probably less than you making a mistake. Remember the same thing that if you climb hard project routes and you have to bail. Dont just use one bailer on the bolt put another on the bolt below the main one.

Which MP route were you doing?

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Nic Le Maitre
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Re: Need help?

Post by Nic Le Maitre » Tue Jun 19, 2018 11:36 am

Bolts are (usually) bomber and the chance of non-SCC corroded bolts failing is very low. Test the bolts, corroded bolts typically fail at very low loads.

To increase your safety in the event of a bolted stance failure, use another anchor for yourself while your buddy abseils, that way if the bolts do blow out, you will not go with them.

All of these are very low likelihood scenarios. Far more people have died from either not wearing helmets, not using a prusik on abseils or abseiling off the end of the rope. Those are the elementary mistakes you need to guard against.
Happy climbing
Nic

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