Quantcast
It is currently Sat Apr 25, 2015 8:24 pm

All times are UTC + 2 hours




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 32 posts ]  Go to page 1, 2  Next
Author Message
PostPosted: Thu Jan 15, 2015 8:54 am 
Offline

Joined: Tue Jan 15, 2008 10:57 pm
Posts: 202
Location: East London
Real Name: Garvin Jacobs
Does anyone have an idea what would be the highest Bolted multi-pitch route in SA or Africa? Before you say anything, I know I should just go climb trad if I want multi-pitch. But humour me anyway!

Garvin


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu Jan 15, 2015 9:23 am 
Offline

Joined: Fri Dec 15, 2006 12:32 pm
Posts: 1221
Location: Cape Town
Real Name: Willem Boshoff
south africa:
the place we do not speak of? some 8/9 pitches.
also some longish routes on cogmans in montagu.
newborn!

i guess the routes on the tsaranaro massiv in madagascar will take the africa prize. some 26+ pitches i think. jip, bolted.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu Jan 15, 2015 10:34 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Sat Apr 30, 2005 8:31 am
Posts: 3156
Location: Montagu
Real Name: Justin Lawson
In Montagu:
- Another Day in Paradise - Grade 22 (7 pitches)
- The Rave - Grade 22 (6 pitches)
http://www.climbing.co.za/topo/south-af ... s-buttress

Harrismith / Eagle Mountain ??

Yellowwood:
- Newborn - Grade 29 (not sure how many pitches)

_________________
Climb ZA - Administrator
justin@climbing.co.za


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu Jan 15, 2015 10:35 am 
Offline

Joined: Tue Jan 15, 2008 10:57 pm
Posts: 202
Location: East London
Real Name: Garvin Jacobs
Ah!! great stuff. Can anyone think of something else. I don't think I'll manage those grades.

Garvin


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu Jan 15, 2015 10:46 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Sat Apr 30, 2005 8:31 am
Posts: 3156
Location: Montagu
Real Name: Justin Lawson
You can do Another Day in Paradise at grade 18 (pull on a bolt to get past a move).
There are also other (lower grade) multi pitch routes on Cogmans (see link above).

Another Day in Paradise and Magical Mystery Tour can be combined (grade 18) and even better with a 70/80 meter rope :P

_________________
Climb ZA - Administrator
justin@climbing.co.za


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu Jan 15, 2015 10:50 am 
Offline

Joined: Tue Nov 09, 2010 1:23 pm
Posts: 37
Real Name: Deon Wessels
Paradigms shift on sentinal is 6 pitches, 200m.. Hard 22

Swinburne, Harrismith has a few of around 150m.
Wolfmothers Wallpaper at Swinburne should be on everyone's to do list, awesome climb


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu Jan 15, 2015 11:07 am 
Offline

Joined: Tue Apr 25, 2006 9:50 am
Posts: 74
Highest = longest?? Babel (7c+), Atlas Mountains, Morocco is 800m long (and 2977m above sea level). Don't know of any longer sport routes in Africa.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu Jan 15, 2015 11:13 am 
Offline

Joined: Thu Feb 19, 2009 10:48 am
Posts: 649
Real Name: Warren Gans
Certainly the largest concentration of multipitch sport routes is around Harrismith and Swinburne, if that helps answer your question.

Someone fit needs to try climb all of the Cogmans multipitch sport routes in a day, or at least over a weekend....

_________________
Sandbagging is a dirty game


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu Jan 15, 2015 11:20 am 
Offline

Joined: Tue Jan 15, 2008 10:57 pm
Posts: 202
Location: East London
Real Name: Garvin Jacobs
Hey Keith

I'm super keen to do the Tradathon in March. It seems I may not have a climbing partner by then, so we should go represent. I wanna do the robot In one pitch, kinda trying to minimise the traverse.
Go for the Journey and stop at the Robot.

@ warren, if its less than 40 pitches, even I could do that in a day. :oops:
Garvin


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu Jan 15, 2015 11:28 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Sat Apr 30, 2005 8:31 am
Posts: 3156
Location: Montagu
Real Name: Justin Lawson
garvinj wrote:
Hey Keith


Wrong Keith! (the one above is from the WC).

All the Cogmans routes in a day would be impressive (and achievable).

_________________
Climb ZA - Administrator
justin@climbing.co.za


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu Jan 15, 2015 11:38 am 
Offline

Joined: Tue Jan 15, 2008 10:57 pm
Posts: 202
Location: East London
Real Name: Garvin Jacobs
I just checked my old guide and it looks like there are 6 routes and about 30 pitches. If I can be allowed to do easy variation on the 26 pitch. That sounds doable! I'll start training in Feb. Lets see if someone can beet me to it.
Garvin


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu Jan 15, 2015 11:44 am 
Offline

Joined: Tue Jan 15, 2008 10:57 pm
Posts: 202
Location: East London
Real Name: Garvin Jacobs
Thanks Justin
I have been struggling to get hold of Keith so I was kinda thinking its strange to find him on the forum.

So will you ropegun for such an attempt. We still need money for that kids surgery department. Who will be putting money on this Idea????


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu Jan 15, 2015 3:25 pm 
Offline

Joined: Thu Jan 15, 2015 3:20 pm
Posts: 5
Real Name: Andre Theron
Since no one has mentioned this one.
'Not So Auto' on Monks Cowl in the drakensberg is possibly the highest above sea level sport route in Africa.
Its a V5.12b, 460m topping out at 3234m a.s.l


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu Jan 15, 2015 3:42 pm 
Offline

Joined: Tue Jan 15, 2008 10:57 pm
Posts: 202
Location: East London
Real Name: Garvin Jacobs
That's some other grading system. What would it be in SA grade? I'm not so smart with those conversion things.

When I hear conversion I think someone is going to drop the suspension on my fortuner and I won't be able to leave the city ever again! Or they'll put a load exhaust on and I'll be banded for visiting my Grand mother at the old age home.

Garvin


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu Jan 15, 2015 5:22 pm 
Offline

Joined: Mon Jan 23, 2006 1:52 pm
Posts: 186
in so far as I recall 'Not so Auto' was about 26


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu Jan 15, 2015 5:34 pm 
Offline

Joined: Mon Jan 16, 2006 8:21 pm
Posts: 366
Not So Auto has bolts but is hardly a sport route - its scary 26 with a healthy dose of the usual 'berg weetbix. A rack of gear is strongly recommended!

Some of the routes at Wellington's Dome might fit the bill Garvin. Its just a bit of a trek from the EC.

I agree with Warren - Harrismith is a good bet. How about linking say all the multipitch 23's and below at Everest and Swinburne in a day or even a weekend? Should tow that possible/impossible line quite nicely - Dawn Wall style!


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu Jan 15, 2015 6:17 pm 
Offline

Joined: Tue Jan 15, 2008 10:57 pm
Posts: 202
Location: East London
Real Name: Garvin Jacobs
There are some great ideas here.
Thank Hector for the heads up on "Not So Auto".
On new years day I put myself in a spot where I took the wrong end of the trad rack with me on a route. As in, only take smaller than x and I took only bigger. Meaning only x worked. Luckily I had 3 of the size and it was a short route with a 3 bolt slab start. So I'm back to climbing with all my gear all the time. I like the link-up idea. Under 23 also sounds good.

I'd have to be unmarried, hallucinating, desperate and well hung. With young girls in white cotton panties waiting on the summit before I could think of climbing 26 on Berg Weet-bix.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue Jan 20, 2015 1:52 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Mon Sep 03, 2012 6:37 pm
Posts: 363
Real Name: Jonathan
I would guess Paradigm Shift on Sentinel (Free State Face). I believe it is fully sport and would top out around 3000m.

Highest sport route in Africa - isn't there a boulted route somewhere on Mount Kenya? I think it has something to do with getting from the highest summit to the 2nd highest summit. Not 100% sure though.

_________________
"There is something fundamentally wrong in treating the Earth as if it were a business in liquidation." Herman E Daly


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue Jan 20, 2015 1:59 pm 
Offline

Joined: Tue Jan 15, 2008 10:57 pm
Posts: 202
Location: East London
Real Name: Garvin Jacobs
I am looking for most number of pitches or meters of climbing not altitude. Thanks for the help.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue Jan 20, 2015 2:05 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Mon Sep 03, 2012 6:37 pm
Posts: 363
Real Name: Jonathan
It is 6 pitches and 200m according to Alard's website, but I see what you mean by "highest".

Standing on top of Mafadi (SA's highest peak - 3451m) a few weeks ago, I was joking about how one could easily anchor an abseil off some of the large boulders on top and then abseil down the almost 2m of rock that forms part of the summit on the north side. It would sound impressive on paper "abseiling off SA's highest peak" - but it wouldn't be much of an actual abseil...

_________________
"There is something fundamentally wrong in treating the Earth as if it were a business in liquidation." Herman E Daly


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue Jan 20, 2015 2:14 pm 
Offline

Joined: Tue Jan 15, 2008 10:57 pm
Posts: 202
Location: East London
Real Name: Garvin Jacobs
Then the next question would be, does the stuff on Madagascar count as part of Africa? More importantly are there easy routes up those big slabs?


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue Jan 20, 2015 2:17 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Mon Sep 03, 2012 6:37 pm
Posts: 363
Real Name: Jonathan
By official classification - yes, Madagascar is an African country as it falls on the African Tectonic Plate (to the best of my knowledge this is the reason). Anyway, politically speaking it is considered to be part of Africa.

Africa is recognised by CIA Factbook as having 6 island nations and 48 mainland nations. The 6 island nations are Carbo Verde, Sao Tome et Principe, Madagascar, Comoros, Mauritius and Seychelles.

_________________
"There is something fundamentally wrong in treating the Earth as if it were a business in liquidation." Herman E Daly


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed Jan 21, 2015 12:17 pm 
Offline

Joined: Thu Feb 19, 2009 10:48 am
Posts: 649
Real Name: Warren Gans
Everyone is avoiding the question because clearly no one knows what is the longest multi-pitch sport route in the country. My guess is either Another Day in Paradise on Cogmans Buttress, or Long Bolt to Freedom. Can anyone else think of a competitor?

Once we are done with this I would love to know what is the longest Trad route in the country: my guess is something near Du Toits or in the berg

_________________
Sandbagging is a dirty game


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed Jan 21, 2015 1:19 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Tue Jun 26, 2007 9:38 pm
Posts: 877
Real Name: Greg Hart
Newborn is the longest and hardest in South Africa 14 pitches 300+m, second would be the routes @ the M spot @ 10pitches 250m.

Not in this country but, to put things in perspective, I recall reading of a route in the Bavarian Alps the 'Grosse Turm' that is 3100m long and goes at the unbelievable grade of 13! (bucket list for speed ascents!), longest in the world is probably the line put up on Mt Robson in the states that is over 2000m long.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed Jan 21, 2015 1:35 pm 
Offline

Joined: Fri Sep 22, 2006 1:45 pm
Posts: 617
Location: Aberdeen, Scotland
Are they both fully bolted Greg?

Longest I've climbed is La Demande in the Verdon or the Direct on the Miroir d'Argentine ("guide bolted") and they both gave me my fill for a day!


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed Jan 21, 2015 5:41 pm 
Offline

Joined: Mon Oct 16, 2006 8:53 am
Posts: 940
Location: Cape Town
Real Name: Charles Edelstein
Newborn is not 300m. At most 250m. I know because you can rap the whole of YW in 4 raps with 60m ropes. Milner routes are almost certainly longer. There are berg routes that are bolted....


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu Jan 22, 2015 8:34 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Tue May 17, 2005 9:06 am
Posts: 213
Location: Cape Town
What about Spitzkoppe if you are looking at Africa.
INXS is bolted and rather long.
There are also routes on the smaller peaks that we did that were fully bolted and around 200 - 300m long (and fairly easy too around 16?)
Will need to check in the route guide to remember the names.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu Jan 22, 2015 10:54 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Tue Jun 26, 2007 9:38 pm
Posts: 877
Real Name: Greg Hart
Chris F - Yup both full on sport routes although you will need axes and crampons to get off the Bavarian (?) one, as there is a pitch at the top that is just scree in summer (super dangerous) but snow covered in winter. There is a rather famous and expensive hotel at the top of the route and a train station to get down, so one could have someone bring the ice gear to you so that you don't have to carry it on the route.
Infinite Bliss is the USA one and is 23 pitches and 2600ft (NOT metres! = my bad) long, its in the cascade mountains of Washington State.
(I presume you were asking about the overseas routes? Both Newborn and all routes at M are fully bolted sport routes).

INXS is bolted but rather adventurously so (Run out slabs = meh / death, you can keep them thanks).


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu Jan 22, 2015 11:20 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Mon Jul 02, 2007 9:55 am
Posts: 286
Location: Pretoria
Real Name: Brian Weaver
There are several other fully bolted lines on Spitzkoppe that are not dangerous and more around the 20-23 mark. They top out around 400m, I think.

I'm not sure how tall they are, but there are bigwalls in Madagascar that are fully bolted. I know that Ondra did an 8c/+ there.

_________________
I hate this real world place... I'd be more than happy to live out there rather...


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu Jan 22, 2015 4:49 pm 
Offline

Joined: Fri Sep 22, 2006 1:45 pm
Posts: 617
Location: Aberdeen, Scotland
XMod wrote:
I presume you were asking about the overseas routes? Both Newborn and all routes at M are fully bolted sport routes


Yes I was. Surprised a route that length is fully bolted, that's a lot of ironwork! I know the SA ones are fully sport.

Thanks for the info


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 32 posts ]  Go to page 1, 2  Next

All times are UTC + 2 hours


Who is online

Registered users: Bing [Bot], Google [Bot], Yahoo [Bot]


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group