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When is a sport route considered complete?
Posted: Mon Oct 10, 2005 1:10 pm
At what point is a sports route officially considered complete? Is it when both anchors are clipped or when a final hold is reached? For example if you reach the top but fall before clipping the anchors is the route complete? Or what if you clip one anchor, but are too pumped to clip the second. Maybe this is splitting hairs but these scenarios do become relevant when you're at your limit.
Posted: Mon Oct 10, 2005 1:17 pm
Im not much of a sport climber, but I've always been told that u have to clip at least one of the chains to claim the ascent (or else top out completely - old style). In my opinion it definately doesnt count if u jump off without clipping (or grab the chains).
Posted: Mon Oct 10, 2005 3:59 pm
The way I see \"sending/pointing\" a sport route (or any route for that matter) :
Imagine you had attempted the said climb, in said form, unroped.....
Then ask yourself : \"They way I climbed today, would I have decked, and died or got injured?\"
If the answer is 'yes', well then you didn't send/'point the route. Sorry for you, better luck next time.
If the answer is 'no', then congratulations are in order, you figuratively live to climb another route!
Posted: Tue Oct 11, 2005 8:43 am
In my book you have to clip at least one of the top anchors to have completed the route without hanging onto the chains.
Posted: Tue Oct 11, 2005 12:41 pm
In my opinion you need to do TWO things to complete a climb:
One - climb the route without falling by following the line from the start to logical finishing hold
Two - clip the anchor (one or two bolts, it doesn't matter)
The reason that I say this is to point out that bolters often have to place top anchors lower than they would like to (rope drag, loose rock etc). This should not mean that people to stop climbing lower. It is also prevent people deluding themselves by placing long slings on anchors.
As Steve Bradshaw (the younger) once said to me: \"I'm a climber not a clipper\" - climb the route, don't just clip the bolts.
Posted: Tue Oct 11, 2005 3:42 pm
That makes sense, because it does happen sometimes that you can reach up quite high to clip an anchor, but you actually aren't at the top.
Posted: Thu Oct 13, 2005 6:56 pm
The rules regarding the validity of an ascent are quite clear and strict. Check out the article on Practice and Ethics in Sport Climbing on 8aNu for the lowdown.
Posted: Fri Oct 14, 2005 2:15 pm
Hmmm, even the guys on 8a.nu say there are few hard and fast rules.
Seems like it's an area that people are going to continue to disagree on.
That said, it's a cool article. I think they give good guidelines, which I'm going to be following in the future.
I like what they say about \"There's no definite line between right and wrong but the fundamental idea is, don't push the border of ethics systematically, instead, keep the spirit alive.\"
Posted: Mon Oct 17, 2005 12:35 pm
Hey its your game after all. Strictly speaking one would clip both anchors cleanly and unaided before ticking an ascent, but it all depends how strict you want to be with yourself, in the first couple of years of climbing maybe it doesnt matter that much unless u r totally focussed on becoming the best. Having fun is way more important!
Eventually maybe stricter rules can add to the fun as your list of ascents grows, but never let some dumb rule spoil the good times
Posted: Mon Oct 17, 2005 12:40 pm
Wanderlust or a gold rush for glitter bugs?
Posted: Fri Oct 21, 2005 10:39 am
You should look at yourself and decide truthfully, have I cheated ?
The only way is: to follow the line, don't fall and reach the top, anchor in and give a yelp of delight knowing that you did not cheat yourself. Saying \"I red pointed the climb\", where in reality you fell and rested 10-15 times is bull$#%t.
Then again, what do I know, to red point, flash, pink point... that's another story...
Just don't be surprised when you are sitting in a pub and bragging about the 27 you sent to some guy that is only climbing 24's(in reality) and he tells you to pons off.
With that said, just enjoy the rock and crank as hard as you can, but loose the tall tales please.
What is is and what is not is not - truth
Posted: Fri Oct 21, 2005 11:44 am
Its not that crap to ask a relevent question.
true ---Its all in the re-telling. Make sure no information is omitted. Especialy info that makes a diffrence.
Posted: Fri Oct 21, 2005 12:10 pm
the question was not crap, in fact it was a very good question, anti-crap is just my handle