Bolting the crux

Ask. Answer. Discuss. Any bolting related issues.
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valconcorner
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Real Name: vallery
Location: cape town

Bolting the crux

Post by valconcorner » Wed Nov 18, 2015 5:08 pm

A discussion was had while walking back from the Steeple a while ago - what is the rule of thumb as to where the bolt should be placed - at/before/ or after the crux move ?
It obviously depends on the route opener but is there a general consensus ?

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Wes
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Real Name: Wesley

Re: Bolting the crux

Post by Wes » Wed Nov 18, 2015 5:17 pm

Firstly, you want to protect the crux move. ie make it safe to do.

You would want to place a bolt in a easily clippable position just before the crux move.

But in reality every route is different and requires a bit of thought and common sense.

Warren G
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Re: Bolting the crux

Post by Warren G » Wed Nov 18, 2015 6:23 pm

Agreed with We, you even get situations where the crux sequence is so long that THE crux bolt is actually a working bolt, and should be clipped. A big step in your climbing career is when you stop thinking bolt to bolt, but start thinking rest to rest.
Sandbagging is a dirty game

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Nic Le Maitre
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Real Name: Nic Le Maitre
Location: Stellenbosch

Re: Bolting the crux

Post by Nic Le Maitre » Thu Nov 19, 2015 12:20 pm

One of my pet hates from sport climbing is when routes have been bolted by tall people who assume that the position of the bolt is fine for everyone but for the shorter climbers it may require you to climb the crux before you can protect it as the bolt is placed just that little bit too high.
Happy climbing
Nic

Chris F
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Location: Aberdeen, Scotland

Re: Bolting the crux

Post by Chris F » Thu Nov 19, 2015 12:31 pm

If bolted badly enough, clipping the bolts can be the actual crux!

Old Smelly
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Re: Bolting the crux

Post by Old Smelly » Thu Nov 19, 2015 1:23 pm

Thumbs up to you Nic! :thumright Right on!
Really, its not that bad...I think it's my shoes...

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