Bolt Removal

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Real Name: Justin Lawson
Location: Montagu/Cape Town

Bolt Removal

Post by Justin » Thu May 28, 2015 12:01 pm

Has anyone tried this before? Looking at Legoland since the re-bolt, we're going to run out of bolt placement areas (on the rock) in the years to come!
Presumably you would need to use a size larger bolt 2nd time round.

Sustainable re-bolting: stud bolt removal technique:

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Real Name: Hallam Payne
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Re: Bolt Removal

Post by Hallam » Thu May 28, 2015 2:54 pm

That looks like a great idea, particularly the idea of using rock paste to grind a groove into the cone for the sleeve to catch. I'm guessing you wouldn't need to have an expensive (and heavy) hydraulic extractor, you could probably cobble something together with a threaded puller like a clutch removal tool and some spacers.

Also, if you're planning to replace a bolt with a glue-in, you're going to be drilling out the hole to 12mm anyway. Winner all round :).

Andy Davies
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Re: Bolt Removal

Post by Andy Davies » Thu May 28, 2015 4:15 pm

Looks a lot like Houdenbeck rock :alien:

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Real Name: Gavin Earle
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Re: Bolt Removal

Post by Dragon » Fri May 29, 2015 12:23 am

I am so glad this avenue is being pursued- words cannot express the horror I felt when I reached a stance in Thailand only to find 12 scars and broken bolts surrounding the 2 current ones that were being used. We have to find a "sustainable" way to rebolt in the long term.

Warren G
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Re: Bolt Removal

Post by Warren G » Fri May 29, 2015 8:48 am

I think this is a good solution to the rebolting problem, and should be explored, however I still believe that we place far too many bolts in the name of convenience.

Personally i would love to see a progression on to drilled thread threws, and other longer term solutions. I am a big fan of drilling through a corner and placing say a big nut/steel plate fixed in place, or a swaged cable- basically I think we should be exploring other avenues besides bolts. Even Ti Glue ins will need to be replaced eventually. Sport climbing has been around for less than half a century and look at the damage it has done.
Sandbagging is a dirty game

Chris F
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Re: Bolt Removal

Post by Chris F » Fri May 29, 2015 10:18 am

If only there was a form of climbing or 3 that didn't require drillng holes in the rock :)

Future generations are going to wonder what the fuck we were thinking!

Warren G
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Re: Bolt Removal

Post by Warren G » Sun May 31, 2015 10:39 am

Chris exactly, but the cat is out the bag and we have many walls with bolts now. Undeniably trad/bouldering is the future, and I too don't look forward to being 80 and getting it in the ear for placing bolts. Thread threws offer reusbility, like trad- and so above I suggest them.

I sit on the Rock Sub committee in the Cape Town MCSA, and hope to sway my fellow members to other forms of equipping routes. The big problem is not who sits on that committee (and the others around the county), but who goes climbing: we have numerous threads on this forum of people questioning bolts, to have a thread thew etc will bring other arguments and concerns. Sport climbers don't want any cause to worry about hurting themselves, nor do they want to spend more money than they have to be safe. Therefore to have fixed equipment rather than personal equipment is preferred. until there is a mind shift by the climbing community we will continue to harm the goose that lays the golden egg.

The simple truth is bolts made climbing the huge sport it is today, an fuels its growth- along with gyms of course.
Sandbagging is a dirty game

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Re: Bolt Removal

Post by BAbycoat » Sat Sep 26, 2015 1:04 am

I agree wholeheartedly with Warren and Chris' concerns. But I'm not sure that the particular solution in the video is practical.

From multiple experience with Fixe Removable Bolts, after tightening, loading and weathering the bolt sleeve becomes difficult to remove.

The demonstration video looks nifty, but is just a demonstration. I'd be interested to see how it works on existing bolts (and not something conveniently placed just before filming started).

Diamond Core Bits (see the bottom of this website) are an alternative - albeit expensive. I know rebolting groups who are using them with success.

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