Quantcast
It is currently Fri Dec 19, 2014 1:51 am

All times are UTC + 2 hours




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 5 posts ] 
Author Message
 Post subject: Torque tips
PostPosted: Mon May 09, 2011 3:38 pm 
Offline

Joined: Thu Mar 08, 2007 12:53 pm
Posts: 144
My travels take me to Bukit Keteri in Malaysia this coming week - and I read an online review that it has "numbers of loose bolts". Optimistically assuming that only the nuts are loose (and not wanting to start a discussion on David Lama's bolting ethics), we'll take a few 17mm ring spanners.

Given the potential for SCC, I don't want to over-tighten the bolts. We won't have a torque wrench. Can anyone suggest rules-of-thumb as to how tight is tight enough?

thanks.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Torque tips
PostPosted: Mon May 09, 2011 4:57 pm 
Offline

Joined: Tue Apr 24, 2007 1:59 pm
Posts: 724
Take a shifting spanner, I've encountered weird sizes (12mm bolts/imperial sizes) when tightening nuts.

As for a general rule of thumb, if it is an expansion bolt that has been properly set, it only requires the nut to be tight enough to stop the hanger from spinning. Experience could replace a torque wrench :bom:

Oh and as for SCC, the actual type of bolt and material would be the main factor in determining whether the bolts would be subject to SCC: Rolled vs turned bolts (all the bolts that have failed in SA were the turned ones, stainless 304 - problem is it's not easy to tell which are which after they have been placed, unless you are familiar with the specific bolt brand/model in question)

Other factors include: How far are these bolts from the sea? Prevailing winds? Relative humidity? Is the limestone the same type of aggressively corrosive one found in southern Thailand (from the location it looks like it).

The ARF has interesting info about this. http://www.climb.co.za/anchor-replacement-fund/.

And if they are loose glue-ins, well then :( watch out for dodgy fixed ropes as well, a girl in Ton Sai fell an entire pitch after sitting back in her harness clipped only to a fixed rope used to access an upper tier crag. She was nicely caught by jungle and survived.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Torque tips
PostPosted: Wed May 11, 2011 8:57 am 
Offline

Joined: Wed Feb 02, 2011 11:13 am
Posts: 157
Location: Benoni
Real Name: David Wade
Is there a reason why no one uses nylock nuts when bolting routes? Because nylock nuts wont work themselves loose.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Torque tips
PostPosted: Fri Apr 25, 2014 1:23 pm 
Offline

Joined: Thu Jul 14, 2011 8:26 pm
Posts: 86
Location: Middelburg
Real Name: Frank de Souza
There is no reason why you can't use nylocks (I would say) As long as they are made of the same stainless steel grade. Ive always thought, that if I ever got to bolt something I would use locktight, burr the thread of nut and bolt once its tightened or even hacksaw down the centre of the bolt head and wedge the two halfs slighly open. Locktight just seems to be the least effort and fail safe.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Torque tips
PostPosted: Fri Apr 25, 2014 1:52 pm 
Offline

Joined: Fri Nov 28, 2008 1:21 pm
Posts: 281
Loctite is great! In some circumstances however you should remember that lock tite removal in the industry is done by heating the bolt/ nut & then the loctite loosens - so in some cases cyclic heating will have the same effect.

Nyloc nuts on the other hand give you the opportunity to tighten to just the right torque & KNOW that the nut will not work loose. Its a bit of a no brainer apart from the cost. The same material is a great idea as there is no chance of galvanic corrosion - which could take place if you used a plated bolt and a stainless hanger or vice versa, but should be ok with different grades of stainless. Galvanic corrosion will take place in a seaside environment if the materials are dissimilar. Though this may seem like a wild herring chase it is just as likely as Stress corrosion if you use different materials.

Great Article here...http://www.climbing.com/climber/built-to-last/

_________________
Really, its not that bad...I think it's my shoes...


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 5 posts ] 

All times are UTC + 2 hours


Who is online

Registered users: Baidu [Spider], Bing [Bot], Exabot [Bot], Google [Bot], Yahoo [Bot]


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
cron
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group