Crack climbing

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NatureBoi
Posts: 408
Joined: Mon Feb 01, 2010 11:23 am
Real Name: Cormac Tooze
Location: Cape Town

Re: Crack climbing

Post by NatureBoi » Tue Nov 29, 2016 10:33 am

Nice off-width on Scottini's Chimney, Lion's Head Granite.
Chicken wings and arm bars are the only way to climb it. Crack too big for hand stacks!
Harder and longer than the off-width (P3) on 'Alone in Space' IMO
Cheers
Cormac

SNORT
Posts: 1187
Joined: Mon Oct 16, 2006 8:53 am
Real Name: Charles Edelstein
Location: Cape Town

Re: Crack climbing

Post by SNORT » Tue Nov 29, 2016 11:22 am

Wilgepoort has crack climbs.

Outrageous Time and Time Lapse has 2 very tricky roof moves that work with hand jambs

mokganjetsi
Posts: 1696
Joined: Fri Dec 15, 2006 12:32 pm
Real Name: Willem Boshoff
Location: Cape Town

Re: Crack climbing

Post by mokganjetsi » Tue Nov 29, 2016 1:54 pm

Latin Lessons at Bosch Crag (Montagu) is quite something at the grade. But let's face it (hehe), we do not have much in SA to prepare guys that want to go climb splitters in Moab.

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henkg
Posts: 400
Joined: Fri Sep 25, 2009 11:21 am
Real Name: Henk Grobler

Re: Crack climbing

Post by henkg » Tue Nov 29, 2016 4:14 pm

Two pitches worth of splitter on SWW Spitz. Starting at fist and ending perfect fingers.
You may still be here tomorrow, but your dreams may not. Cat Stevens

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NatureBoi
Posts: 408
Joined: Mon Feb 01, 2010 11:23 am
Real Name: Cormac Tooze
Location: Cape Town

Re: Crack climbing

Post by NatureBoi » Mon Nov 12, 2018 2:56 pm

Nice hand jams on my new route
'On Cloud Nine'
http://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/Silvermi ... _Nine_Wall

Cheers
Cormac

crigs
Posts: 17
Joined: Wed Feb 12, 2014 9:52 am
Real Name: Craig Turvey

Re: Crack climbing

Post by crigs » Mon Nov 12, 2018 6:46 pm

Try Lion's Head granite for the best variety:

Silhouette Crack
Millions
Weird Scenes Inside the Goldmine
Cave Overhang
Huguenot Wall
Huguenot Crag
Tea Trolley Crack
Bastille Crack
Hide and Seek
De Bruin Damage
Cross Cracks
Scary Crack
Jam Puff
Knuckle Duster
Encore Boulder

All of these routes involve crack climbing, from fingers only to offwidth and chimney.

oubaas
Posts: 198
Joined: Tue Aug 22, 2006 1:42 pm

Re: Crack climbing

Post by oubaas » Mon Nov 12, 2018 7:55 pm

Bronkies has the very best crack climbing in SA

Joshiva
Posts: 23
Joined: Sun Oct 11, 2015 11:10 am
Real Name: Joshua Butcher

Re: Crack climbing

Post by Joshiva » Wed Nov 14, 2018 8:27 am

@Smityb Manouvres by Moonlight offers some fine features to jam. The grade 20 traverse pitch is long and pumpy and sticks to a horizontal break. The top pitch (19) follows an awesome dihedral crack (vert) before spitting you out onto the bulgey headwall, one of the best 19's imho. Africa Gullet (17) first pitch from upper africa ledge whilst not strictly jam crack will get you into the 3D style of chimneys and laybacking for days. To join the growing chorus; take the opportunity to jam all the horizontal rails you can find - even on bolted routes, amazing potential for rests on route. There's also some very jammable features on some routes on Barrier buttress; eg Barrier Sandwich and Barrier Pinnacle.

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