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Higgovale route grading

Posted: Tue Mar 20, 2012 10:54 pm
by Jones46
lately if heard people talking about the routes at the quarry,some routes are over graded and some under graded,what to you guys think?

Re: Higgovale route grading

Posted: Wed Mar 21, 2012 12:17 pm
by wravenant
I certainly agree that some of the routes are under and over graded.
But hey, grading is controversial and subjective.
Maybe we should have a Quarry climbing day, where everyone discuss and agree to proper grades?

Re: Higgovale route grading

Posted: Wed Mar 21, 2012 6:04 pm
by Jones46
yea that would be awesome!

Re: Higgovale route grading

Posted: Thu Mar 22, 2012 9:33 am
by The Jimmy
Can you maybe list or give more info on the routes you feel are over/under graded?

Re: Higgovale route grading

Posted: Thu Mar 22, 2012 10:12 am
by Warren G
Due to the nature of the rock the minor features "fade", this is more of a problem on the harder routes, or where the features are less apparent.

Re: Higgovale route grading

Posted: Thu Mar 22, 2012 10:56 am
by paulgoddard
all of your routes Niel.....are sandbags :shock: joking ! but for example ''25% for woodwork'' is stiff. Probably because one keeps on getting sand and dust and pebbles in your eyes from those shallow divots all the way up the route.
There are two routes on the left of the quarry as you enter which are stiff for their 15 and 18 grade.
The routes on the main wall i think are graded accurately but there is a lot of sceptisism about the grade of ANC.
I have heard everything from 19 to 22 for that climb.
i think its deffo 20, maybe 21 at a push.

Re: Higgovale route grading

Posted: Thu Mar 22, 2012 11:36 am
by Xenomorph
Hmm, "Another Nefarious Crack" is over graded, should be a 20, before it was re-bolted there was one less bolt which made it scary.

Grades for Eiger Sanction (19) and Frankenstein (18) Have been updated a while ago in Wiki, needs confirmation,. These can be found on the left "The Cinema"

Cormac

Re: Higgovale route grading

Posted: Thu Mar 22, 2012 11:44 am
by Jones46
Friend of mine told me that 20% for woodwork(25) must now be 28 because of a hold breaking ?
I will find out witch routes are over and under graded :thumleft:

Re: Higgovale route grading

Posted: Thu Mar 22, 2012 11:55 am
by Xenomorph
@ Paul, after a few months of research, I managed to contact the original ascensionists and got the names of those routes on the left and most on the right, Check the wiki for grades and photo's,

Cormac

Re: Higgovale route grading

Posted: Thu Mar 22, 2012 1:03 pm
by The Jimmy
@ Paul, haha thanks! :lol:

I'll swing by and check out 20% for Woodwork sometime to see if anything broke. Back when i bolted it (Absolute Interpreter and Umshini Wami too) I spent quite a bit of time cleaing so I'd be surprised if there was anything left to break off but I guess you never know.

Re: Higgovale route grading

Posted: Thu Mar 22, 2012 2:33 pm
by mullet
If any of you have ever seen Mr Mustard (aka Slabmaster) dancing his way up a slab, it isn't hard to imagine that his routes at Higgovale might be slightly sandbagged :pirat:
Agree about the nefarious crack, not harder than 20. A sandy 20, but not a hard one. What about the line going straight up from the same start as nefarious crack? I remember thinking it was maybe 23 but graded 24, is that still the case?