Cleopatra Wall at Van Stadens

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johannlanz
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Cleopatra Wall at Van Stadens

Postby johannlanz » Mon Jul 20, 2015 12:29 pm

I had the pleasure of climbing last week at Van Stadens outside Port Elizabeth, and in particular at the Cleopatra Wall. I've never climbed in the area and never paid much attention to it, but I rate this crag as one of the best sport crags at which I've climbed. I did several routes around grade 22, which were some of the best sport routes of this grade that I've climbed anywhere. The crag provides long, straight up, consistent, steep routes on good rock. Grades vary from 17 to 27, with a lot of excellent routes between 22 and 27. Total number of routes = 41. Apart from the excellent climbing, the crag has a really pleasant, spacious base on a ledge amongst indigenous trees, including cycads, directly above the water of a beautiful dam in the gorge. Highly recommended outing if you're in the area, and actually worth making the effort to be in the area for. Well done to Derek Marshall and others involved in creating a classy crag. And thanks Derek for an excellent mornings climbing together.

meb
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Re: Cleopatra Wall at Van Stadens

Postby meb » Wed Jul 22, 2015 9:25 am

I totally agree :) Derek, Dricus, and gang took good care of me for a whole year of climbing around PE, and Cleopatra is one of my favorite crags-- it never gets old. Thanks for the post; they deserve the recognition!

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Justin
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Re: Cleopatra Wall at Van Stadens

Postby Justin » Wed Jul 22, 2015 10:18 am

Cool to hear! Any photos of the crag??
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johannlanz
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Re: Cleopatra Wall at Van Stadens

Postby johannlanz » Wed Jul 22, 2015 10:27 am

I was too busy climbing routes to take any photos!

To get decent shots of the crag you would need to photograph while hanging off another route. Otherwise very difficult to get any perspective.

If anyone has any photos of it please post.

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Thermophage
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Real Name: Cuan Lohrentz
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Re: Cleopatra Wall at Van Stadens

Postby Thermophage » Wed Jul 22, 2015 10:46 am

http://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&pid=s ... WU1NzMwM2Q

Here's the route guide for the Van Stadens area, Cleopatra is part of this. As you can see...PE has a $H1TL0AD of climbing like 20 min out of town... :)

keith james
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Re: Cleopatra Wall at Van Stadens

Postby keith james » Wed Jul 22, 2015 11:35 am

All of the above is true - and much, much more.

A little way upstream of the Cleopatra Wall is another fabulous sector, in a stunning setting, known as The Beach, with interesting technical routes starting in the 17 range and into the high 20's, many of which are directly above the water.

The Eastern Cape generally has a very below-the-radar climbing scene, in sport and trad and bouldering genres, and most activists do all three. Derek Marshall is unquestionably the most prolific sport-climbing developer in the country over the last 10 years, just in terms of the number of crags he has developed and the number of routes he has bolted (and not only in the E.Cape). His re-development of the Van Stadens area is testament both to his skill as a developer, and his prodigious work ethic. No travelling climber should miss an opportunity to climb there...

kj

AllOfTheKittens
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Re: Cleopatra Wall at Van Stadens

Postby AllOfTheKittens » Wed Jul 22, 2015 2:39 pm

+1 for Cleo, its an absolutely amazing crag!

Some shots from the MCSA EP Section Facebook page:

1800220_809809105712425_309097505_n.jpg
The legend himself.
1800220_809809105712425_309097505_n.jpg (66.24 KiB) Viewed 175 times


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Cleo.
1234178_701656289861041_102002313_n.jpg (123.86 KiB) Viewed 175 times


Eastern Cape has plenty of other great crags, and some pretty sweet bouldering - we just need more visitors to pop through ;)

Dave

Clarece
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Real Name: Claire Elizabeth Midgley

Re: Cleopatra Wall at Van Stadens

Postby Clarece » Wed Jul 22, 2015 7:50 pm

WELL DONE Derek Marshall and your faithful team for putting this beautiful part of the world high up on climbing musts!!! Keep the South African Flag flighing high!!! Pity we don't have such a dedicated and passionate climber here in the UK!!! Hope ALL appreciate your enthusiasm and dedication to this crazy way of life!!! Stay Safe!!! XXx

Clarece
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Re: Cleopatra Wall at Van Stadens

Postby Clarece » Wed Jul 22, 2015 7:50 pm

WELL DONE Derek Marshall and your faithful team for putting this beautiful part of the world high up on climbing musts!!! Keep the South African Flag flighing high!!! Pity we don't have such a dedicated and passionate climber here in the UK!!! Hope ALL appreciate your enthusiasm and dedication to this crazy way of life!!! Stay Safe!!! XXx

Clarece
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Re: Cleopatra Wall at Van Stadens

Postby Clarece » Wed Jul 22, 2015 7:51 pm

WELL DONE Derek Marshall and your faithful team for putting this beautiful part of the world high up on climbing musts!!! Keep the South African Flag flighing high!!! Pity we don't have such a dedicated and passionate climber here in the UK!!! Hope ALL appreciate your enthusiasm and dedication to this crazy way of life!!! Stay Safe!!! XXx

garvinj
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Re: Cleopatra Wall at Van Stadens

Postby garvinj » Wed Jul 22, 2015 9:32 pm

STOP!!!!!

This guys head is going to get as big as his belly if you keep this up. Besides if people really knew how good it was, we wouldn't have the crag to ourselves every weekend. The Euro climber we had with us last weekend kept reminding me; "if this was in Europe you'd have to wait in line to climb anything."

Oh and by the way Derek didn't bolt anything last week. He only opened about 4 new trad lines. Slow weekend!!! for him


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