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Paarl Rock

Posted: Tue Mar 07, 2006 3:22 pm
by tygereye
Has anyone recently climbed at the North Wall? Did you also find the path very misleading/ambiguous? Or did we miss something fundamental?
The climb (Ugly Duckling) was fine, but the last pitch ends with a top-out... quite confusing; especially if you're walking around the top, searching for anchors while your belayer is paying and paying out rope, with not much of the 60m rope left on a 30m pitch (according to the guidebook)!
Would like to hear some of your comments.

Posted: Tue Mar 07, 2006 7:28 pm
by Stu
What \"path\" did you use?
I think you got the climb all wrong, it ends on a nice little ledge with an anchor. From there you scramble to the top. The climb wasn't bolted to cater for people searching for the anchors from the top - as are most climbs.

Posted: Wed Mar 08, 2006 9:07 am
by tygereye
Hi Stu
I know you're quite a local at Paarl and put up many routes there - you're doing a great job!
The path we used was the normal one that goes past sands of time and jovian thunderbolts, turning right, continuing along the dome. Where the path split towards Nantes boulder, we continued to the right and scrambled up rocks, over and underneath bushes and trees. Did we take the right path? It just didn't seem very clear.
At the top of the last pitch there is a nice ledge from where I belayed my partner, but that was after I was looking for the \"anchors\" (with chains etc, as we get accustomed to). There was only one bolt with a hanger, looked like part of the route, so I carried on past it. Next time I'd know to stop there, though.

Posted: Wed Mar 08, 2006 5:25 pm
by Stu
I'm afraid you were on the correct path, that part of Paarl Rock is not frequented often so the path is pretty bad. The best advice is to keep close to the rock. Yip you had the right stance. At the time of bolting we ran out of bolts but wanted to finish the route and only put in one and I guess it remained that way, there is however another hole.

Paarl Rock

Posted: Wed Mar 08, 2006 7:08 pm
by scottnoy
In my opinion Paarl Rock is not a sport climbing venue at all, only recently have sport routes been put up there. Ethics still plays a large role in opening new routes! The idea is to place bolts where you need them and not to make the climber feel better about his/her situation. The ethics comes from the nature of the rock and the climbing it produces, slab routes throughout the world are climbed in this fashion. Placing two many bolts WILL distract from the climbing and diminish the pleasure gained from the experence. I've just come back from a romp in the Peak District and believe me, in SA we're soft c&£ks...
For me, Paarl is one of my favourite areas because of the unique experience it offers me as a climber.

Posted: Thu Mar 09, 2006 8:02 am
by Rastaman
I think that these bolts are at a stance and there should be two.
Slab (or granite) climbing is bolted fairly runout, this is definately part of the experience. However the harder the route the more bolts there (generally) are. Its a big mental game. When you are 5m above a bolt standing on nothing except friction, and theres one more move to the bolt you have to just go for it! If anyone enjoys climbing at Paarl you should go check out Spitzkoppe, Paarl rock on steroids!

Posted: Thu Mar 09, 2006 8:19 am
by Stu
I agree 100%, look at Sands of Time, People rave about the route but ask why there are not more bolts, what they don't realise is that if the route was bolted like any other sport route it would totally loose it's apeal and just be another clip-up. With fewer bolts you take the time to think more about your situation/climbing, appreciating it more. I recently chopped the retro-bolted Ring Route and it is in my opinion a much better route now in it's original form. Yes it's bloody run-out and scary but if you are strong enough to climb it, believe me the satisfaction you feel after the redpoint will be so much more than if it had the extra bolts. If it's too run-out or scary there are plenty of other climbs, or go bolt your own. People have said it before but sometimes a route is more than just bolts and rock, it's the way the first ascentionist envisioned the line and shaped it, thereby making it stand apart from all other routes and not just becoming another number. These lines seem to be few and far between these days and I think we should ensure these are not lost not only at Paarl but everywhere. It would be sad if one day all the old trad venues became sport crags like is starting to happen now. In an age of televisions and PC's, climbing allows us to escape and go and enjoy our own little adventure on a small patch of rock somewhere.

Posted: Thu Mar 09, 2006 8:48 am
by Rastaman
What grade is Ugly Duckling?
Have you been to Spitzkoppe Stu?

Ugly Duckling

Posted: Thu Mar 09, 2006 2:28 pm
by scottnoy
Not sure of the grade? Don't have the guide with me but I think I gave it a 19? If you don't like the way I bolted the 2nd pitch, try Chinese Footbinding! It'll give you more to complain about...

Posted: Fri Mar 10, 2006 2:13 pm
by guest
Everyone has the right to opinions without interference and to seek, receive and impart information and ideas through any media and regardless of frontiers.

Posted: Fri Mar 10, 2006 2:30 pm
by The Jimmy
Guest, you really are a doos....

Posted: Fri Mar 10, 2006 2:35 pm
by oOdball
I smell a troll :?

Got nothing better to do withyour time?

Posted: Fri Mar 10, 2006 3:30 pm
by scottnoy
So you admit to having a soft cock (not that anybody cares), nausea, no ethics, get bored easy, a fasination with other peoples genitals and asses not to mention donkey do-do and you're not superhero?
Seriously though, why do you care where I place MY f£$king bolts? What gives you the right to dictate to me? Who the f£$k do you think you are? Piss off you little wanker!!

Posted: Fri Mar 10, 2006 4:47 pm
by guest
Everyone has the right to opinions without interference and to seek, receive and impart information and ideas through any media and regardless of frontiers.

Posted: Fri Mar 10, 2006 5:09 pm
by JonoJ
Hmmmm, so I guess being a self-confessed softcock means you've never drilled a single hole in your life! (in rock or otherwise, I presume)

Guest, for you own peace of mind, stop making people hate you bru'!

Posted: Fri Mar 10, 2006 5:36 pm
by scottnoy
Re-read your post from an outside perspective...
It doesn't look good does it?

Posted: Fri Mar 10, 2006 5:48 pm
by robsherpa
Guest you are a loser. Stop wasting everyones time with your kak and take up chess instead. It's much safer!

Please guyz

Posted: Fri Mar 10, 2006 6:14 pm
by manoukind
Please guys, stop it.
:cry: until somebody cries.

I'm thankful for this forum, but I don't guess that bullshit like this is really good for it. Since I'm here in ZA I always thought that we've got one of the best climbing communities here.... and I hope it will stay like that


Posted: Mon Mar 13, 2006 5:57 pm
by fundaddy
I just want to say a big thanks to Scott and the other guys who place bolts and thereby have given me access to this great sport. I started climbing this year and absolutely love it. What is so cool to me is that guys will invest so much time and money bolting routes for the benefit of strangers who will never get to thank them personally. I guess the only reward is personal satisfaction and peer recognition. Guys, respect!

-- When I act like an idiot, I always apologise
-- I'm not sorry thats the way I am!

Posted: Mon Mar 13, 2006 8:59 pm
by Marshall
Stu, Scott & all the others...Please note that guest is on his own... everyone else apreciates the efforts made at Paarl. For me it is the only spot I would like to visit again in CT area. Bloody fantastic!

Posted: Tue Mar 14, 2006 7:45 am
by Stu
Havn't been out to Spitkoppe yet, so busy climbing and opening routes down this end, but those must climb lines are running low so Spitzkoppe is definetly on the cards sometime (when you get back Scott?). What are the potential for new lines on the Inxs wall?
Guest, just answer me one question. Are you a troll or is that how you truly feel? Damn guest I thought I was truly on to something with my speech you didn't like it I think we should meet up and discuss it in a little more friendly manner, I'm really a nice guy (baseball bat hidden behind back...) :twisted:
Hey sherparob!!! How's your finger?

Posted: Tue Mar 14, 2006 8:19 am
by Rastaman
Agreed Paarl is great!
Guest is just trying to stir the pot, which he did rather well.
Just ignore his post and he will fade away :lol:

Posted: Tue Mar 14, 2006 5:06 pm
by Fool
I was just wondering if there is any body out there who has be badly injured at paarl... from a lead fall, and not resulting from bad belaying or gear failure of any sort.

I have taken some rather large falls (6m+) on various routes at paarl and the worst that happens is very saw toes..... and Kak in my pants.

Posted: Tue Mar 14, 2006 7:24 pm
by guest
Everyone has the right to opinions without interference and to seek, receive and impart information and ideas through any media and regardless of frontiers.

Posted: Wed Mar 15, 2006 8:53 am
by Stu
Ok I'll go against the wishes of everyone and respond. People like you amaze me. Your logic is severly illogical (see your comments on bolting Paarl). Just when you seem to be showing some you prove yet again your selfishness.
A couple of points: If you don't like the route don't climb it. Bolt your own. Climb the hundreds of others out there.
Seriously though how old are you, your unprovoked aggression leads me to think about 15 year old male??

Posted: Wed Mar 15, 2006 12:05 pm
by Oldsmelly
Now, now, don't go insulting Quirkyclimber....youth is not necessarily the only explanation for guest....

Posted: Wed Mar 15, 2006 1:43 pm
by Grigri
Ja, Scott just ignore this Guest character he/she/it gets kicks from winding people up. Guest probably doesnt even climb!! :lol: Bolt the way you feel is appropriate youre the one holding the drill and paying for the bolts.