Paradigm Shift, Sentinel... beta required

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acaciaproject
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Paradigm Shift, Sentinel... beta required

Post by acaciaproject » Fri Feb 05, 2010 6:43 pm

Yo all,

Anyone out there climed the Paradigm Shift route on the Sentinel recently?? I see via http://www.alardsbigwallclimbing.com/sentinel.htm that it is fully bolted??... if so what condition are the bolts in and would we need back-up trad equip as anchors on belay stations/topping out??

Thanks!!

Ian_944
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Re: Paradigm Shift, Sentinel... beta required

Post by Ian_944 » Sat Feb 06, 2010 9:20 pm

Hey,

I was on it in May 2009, but didn't do the last pitch after getting rained/snowed off (really!). Bolts were all fine up that point, and no need for other placements. There are some run out sections, but not to the point that I wished I had more protection.

I would strongly recommend climbing with 2 ropes as rope drag is horrendous with a single.

Ian

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Nic Gear
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Re: Paradigm Shift, Sentinel... beta required

Post by Nic Gear » Sun Feb 07, 2010 12:56 pm

I also got rained out, but i would agree with ian, rope drag!!! if you dont have two ropes, slings will help! lead outs are a bit exciting. need to go back and finish it, hate being a quitter.
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nicolaasdekker
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Re: Paradigm Shift, Sentinel... beta required

Post by nicolaasdekker » Sun Feb 07, 2010 1:29 pm

Hi, what grades are we looking at for P SHIFT? And what other climbs are there that top out on the sentinel? Grades? Or just post a good url for me to look at.
‎"Avoiding danger is no safer in the long run than outright exposure, life is either a daring adventure or nothing" - Helen Keller

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nicolaasdekker
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Re: Paradigm Shift, Sentinel... beta required

Post by nicolaasdekker » Sun Feb 07, 2010 8:53 pm

No need found the wiki
‎"Avoiding danger is no safer in the long run than outright exposure, life is either a daring adventure or nothing" - Helen Keller

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Neil
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Re: Paradigm Shift, Sentinel... beta required

Post by Neil » Mon Feb 08, 2010 9:41 am

Hi

Did the climb a few years back with Guy Hubbard. I suggest stay in Witsihoek hotel Fri night (normally no need to book). Then start early as weather tends to close later in the day. Start is easy to find, climb clean and mostly good rock, (except perhaps the 3rd pitch a few suspect flakes). The grades in my opinion are: 21, 21, 20, 21, 22, 22/23. We split the top pitch in 2, there is a small grassy ledge just before the final corner. Climb up and clip extra bolt above and down to ledge to have 2 anchors for the stance. We carried up a few cams but found the bolts fine and had no need of them. Where it is run out, it is mostly easier climbing. You can ab down (with 2 60m ropes only) or scramble down the standard route.

RyanKarate
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Re: Paradigm Shift, Sentinel... beta required

Post by RyanKarate » Fri Oct 12, 2018 1:36 pm

2 x 60m ropes ONLY for the abseils down?

Topos say 2 x 50m ropes?

Anyone done it on 2x50s and survived to tell the tale?

RyanKarate
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Re: Paradigm Shift, Sentinel... beta required

Post by RyanKarate » Mon Oct 15, 2018 11:44 am

Well we didn’t ab down in the end yesterday.

Was 7pm when we topped out. Walked off in the dark with head lamps after starting the climb at 8am - but we were 2 parties of 2 until pitch 6 when we combined teams and only sent up 1 probe climber on lead each time - Whomever wasn’t completely shattered by then.

Last pitch is now properly separated into 2 pitches with an extra bolt and some chains at last cubby hole. Worth using it - Last part was really tricky and nice to have the belayer close by with less rope drag. Thanks to whomever put that in.

I must say, we think/thought the climb was rather tough for its grade/description. We also broke off many holds/flakes/loose rock. So as more holds go, this climb is getting more serious with every passing party.

We also climbed it after heavy rain the day before - Rock was mostly dry, except for 2 of the pitches where we had no choice but to climb in a spray of drips and a river of wet rock in black seepage streaks. The route goes straight in a few of these.

We should have climbed MCM before attempting PShift to learn how fragile berg rock is, and to decide/practice if hauling bags is worth the effort. But we couldn’t due to the rain, and it turned into an epic adventure none of us will forget/regret!

Extra beta would have been nice in hindsight - this climb is a serious adventure route and needs more respect/training/experience than you think for a 22. It’s +-22 moves all the way up. Finding the walk off path will be near impossible in the dark if you don’t know it well. Ab’ing down the route will not be easy as the route traverses now and then, and the chains sometimes hard to spot. Don’t climb it after a rainy day. Don’t let it be your first berg climb. Don’t climb it without cold/wet weather gear, water, food, helmet, headlight and cell phone.

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Re: Paradigm Shift, Sentinel... beta required

Post by Ghaznavid » Wed Oct 17, 2018 6:34 pm

Well done, sounds like you had an epic! Please post the story plus photos and videos (if any). I always enjoy trip reports about my local mountains.

Had to chuckle about your comments re the rock breaking. You know the old saying: if you find a good hold in the Drakensberg, please put it back.

Re grades: Drakensberg routes are often massively sandbagged. I can't comment on higher grades, but the few bits of F1 I have climbed don't equate to 13s at the other venues I have climbed at, as most conversion tables suggest.
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