Why is trad climbing in SA not as big as sport climbing

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KieranKP
Posts: 30
Joined: Mon May 19, 2014 11:12 am
Real Name: Kieran richards

Re: Why is trad climbing in SA not as big as sport climbing

Post by KieranKP » Fri May 25, 2018 11:32 am

I dont even know how i found this thread... But im reading this almost 10 years later and the vast majority of this still rings true. There are boundless opportunities and adventures to be had in the Kloofs, yet i can count on my hands the number of people who are psyched to make the mission :cry: I recon im a pretty noob trad climber, but ive lately found myself ridiculously psyched to start trying harder things (Hard for me). The biggest struggle with trad climbing, or pushing your trad climbing abilities is that partners who are psyched, trustworthy and can join you every weekend are few and far between... People are busy these days and few people can spend every weekend out climbing(Trad climbing). Understandably! The people who are psyched cant always make it when you can... makes it pretty difficult to consistently make missions to the kloofs with the intention of tryng hard and being safe. Magaliesberg is a gem of note!! It has and will be an awesome place to escape the tensions and stresses of the City :puker: Lastly i have a question for all the traddies, there are so many routes in the kloofs that have old ass pegs on them that look like they might make a break for ground floor if you so much as look at them... My question is why do bolts get replaced but not pegs? I mean my knowledge of pegs is slim but surely if a bolt needs replacing the same can be said for pegs? Whats the reason? :thumright

Old Smelly
Posts: 651
Joined: Fri Nov 28, 2008 1:21 pm

Re: Why is trad climbing in SA not as big as sport climbing

Post by Old Smelly » Fri May 25, 2018 12:34 pm

Personally I am so tired of being told that SA climbers are much lower level than everyone else...

It is actually Juvenile...nothing more or nothing less...

Ondra is a phenomenon - not a product of any special core group or training technique...yes all of those things have helped after the fact... they don't make him who he is...

Likewise most great climbers are GREAT by virtue of who they are and their particular circumstances...

BUT LETS LOOK AT THIS THE OTHER WAY...

Maybe 4000 climbers in SA

VS. 6.7 Million in the USA?

https://gearjunkie.com/sasha-digiulian-climb-the-hill

Maybe we do just fine in a pure numbers game...

There must be millions of 5.10 climbers and trad climbers who climb grade 13's in the USA... no one rants about how many mediocre US climbers there are...but there are millions...so maybe a few more good ones is justified...

Personally I think that the people who want to Trad climb will learn, if others prefer Sport climbing then that's cool. There should never be a NEED to get more people to Trad unless they want to - UNLESS you are selling the gear (Note that there is a TRADATHON coming up where you can learn all you need to - ask the sponsors for details :wink: )

The question about the pegs is also a bit disingenuous - anyone with knowledge about Trad would know that the pegs were placed before most of the clean climbing Trad gear existed so in Theory there does not exist a situation where one would need to REPLACE a peg where you could not use some modern gear. The OLD Pegs were left in situ largely to avoid damaging the rock removing them. You are welcome to use a 50 year old peg when climbing, OR put something decent in that you can Trust. I am sure there are a few instances where replacing a peg could be justified and this should be addressed with the land owner and according to the ethic of the area.

I suggest you chat to the people in your area that are tradding and the people who own the land you are tradding on and make a connection with them. Who knows you may have more people to trad with than you can believe.
Last edited by Old Smelly on Fri May 25, 2018 4:44 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Really, its not that bad...I think it's my shoes...

KieranKP
Posts: 30
Joined: Mon May 19, 2014 11:12 am
Real Name: Kieran richards

Re: Why is trad climbing in SA not as big as sport climbing

Post by KieranKP » Fri May 25, 2018 1:43 pm

"Retracted"
Last edited by KieranKP on Fri May 25, 2018 3:17 pm, edited 1 time in total.

Old Smelly
Posts: 651
Joined: Fri Nov 28, 2008 1:21 pm

Re: Why is trad climbing in SA not as big as sport climbing

Post by Old Smelly » Fri May 25, 2018 2:42 pm

My initial comments address the topic of this general posting i.e. the name of the Topic - and yes it is a tired old horse they flog...

Thereafter I tried to explain why replacing Pitons is not appropriate in MOST cases. I do feel that my advice about pitons and routes could be helpful and could add a percentage of assistance or value.

"So youre sure that every piton and peg that is placed in the magaliesberg is not 100% unnecessary and can be protected by you cutting edge modern gear ey?? " as opposed to "in Theory there does not exist a situation where one would need to REPLACE a peg where you could not use some modern gear. " THIS DOES NOT IMPLY THAT NO SUCH SITUATION EXISTS - just that theoretically Free Climbing ethics would dictate that... I think you would find that many modern Trad climbers would get in an ethical tizzie if you suggested replacing Pitons rather than using Nuts and microcams...

I even addressed this by saying "I am sure there are a few instances where replacing a peg could be justified and this should be addressed with the land owner and according to the ethic of the area."

Out of interest look at this article

http://keepwildclimbs.ch/en/what-is-clean-climbing/
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Clean_climbing

So that is what most people propose is the "modern way" and why pitons to the large part are not replaced.

I must admit that "Old Smelly Balls" was quite funny though... not my original intention...but funny all the same!
Really, its not that bad...I think it's my shoes...

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