Topside project

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jehlers
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Topside project

Postby jehlers » Mon Dec 01, 2008 9:41 am

Was walking around the Arial boulders over the weekend and stumbled upon a cave with a very cool looking line on the overhanging face. It could be very hard...

There was also a pad stashed at the base. I'm trying to find out if this is someone's project.

dom
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Re: Topside project

Postby dom » Mon Dec 01, 2008 10:09 am

I know that booth Evan and Justin have put serious effort in, but that it remains undone. As far as I know, the Holwill/Wiercx/Whyte crew found it, so if Ev hasn't claimed it as his own, it's probably an open project.

But it's dirty hard and those crimps are sharp.
the fresh prince of darkness

jehlers
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Re: Topside project

Postby jehlers » Mon Dec 01, 2008 11:56 am

It looks f**K hard. Sweet line though... don't know how it would top out?

Guy
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Re: Topside project

Postby Guy » Mon Dec 01, 2008 12:37 pm

We thought one could traverse right at the top. It is open for anyone to try.
There's no point being pessimistic, because it probably won't work

EvanW
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Re: Topside project

Postby EvanW » Mon Dec 01, 2008 6:23 pm

If we are all talking of the same line, then yes it is an open project and an AWESOME line to boot. I worked it a fair amount in 2004, and managed to do some of the moves. As Guy said the idea was to traverse off to the right on razor sharp finger tip edges to top out. The low low start will make it very interesting indeed. I'm inserting some pics from the time I worked it ... Jean, is this the line you're referring to?

Aerial-Project-01.jpg
Aerial-Project-01.jpg (92.42 KiB) Viewed 1815 times


Aerial-Project-02.jpg
Photo by Jason Whyte
Aerial-Project-02.jpg (74.06 KiB) Viewed 1813 times

jehlers
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Re: Topside project

Postby jehlers » Tue Dec 02, 2008 9:34 am

Hi Evan

Yes this is the line. Awesome.

It looked like the low start would be on dubble underclings?? I saw a pocket out right that would obviously be used for your top out sequence. Way to hard for me, but i know of a few interested parties. What sort of grade do you think?

dom
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Re: Topside project

Postby dom » Tue Dec 02, 2008 10:47 am

jehlers wrote:What sort of grade do you think?


I've heard mumblings of 8A+ish. 8C+ish to endure the pain long enough to climb it.
the fresh prince of darkness

EvanW
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Re: Topside project

Postby EvanW » Tue Dec 02, 2008 3:59 pm

Yes, I'm pretty sure it is in the 8's. I think there could be an easier version escaping out right at about halfway.

fivesix
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Re: Topside project

Postby fivesix » Wed Dec 03, 2008 5:08 am

say arghum... how would i find these boulders??? I'm not so hot with CPT directions (dam mountains in the way!) but I would be super physcd to get there for a day and maybe even have someone point some stuff out? otherwise directions are fine too.

THanks...

dom
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Re: Topside project

Postby dom » Wed Dec 03, 2008 10:25 am

fivesix wrote:say arghum... how would i find these boulders??? I'm not so hot with CPT directions (dam mountains in the way!) but I would be super physcd to get there for a day and maybe even have someone point some stuff out? otherwise directions are fine too.

THanks...


Drive to Silvermine, park in the parking lot. Walk south-east on the dirt road. Keep walking. Don't turn off. Ever. If you hit Lakeside, you've gone too far.
the fresh prince of darkness

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Justin
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Re: Topside project

Postby Justin » Wed Dec 03, 2008 10:49 am

The project looks really cool (and hard)

As a matter of interest... how come the grips in the pic don't have tick marks on them!!?? Is this because you guys are actually able to memorise where all the grips are!!!???
:pirat:
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justin@climbing.co.za

dom
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Re: Topside project

Postby dom » Wed Dec 03, 2008 1:37 pm

Justin wrote:As a matter of interest... how come the grips in the pic don't have tick marks on them!!?? Is this because you guys are actually able to memorise where all the grips are!!!???
:pirat:


Evan can't remember his own name (or beta, or directions, or anything really) most of the time, so I think he was going for the onsight.
the fresh prince of darkness

EvanW
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Re: Topside project

Postby EvanW » Wed Dec 03, 2008 2:08 pm

Good one Dom ! :) If I remember correctly, I came pretty damn close to getting the onsight. Or was that a different problem? Mmmmmm.

Cheers, Bill.

fivesix
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Re: Topside project

Postby fivesix » Thu Dec 04, 2008 6:27 am

http://maps.google.com/maps?hl=en&ie=UTF8&ll=-34.076123,18.396006&spn=0.035262,0.087547&t=h&z=14

Could you point to it please? :thumright

theres a lot of trails down there and you know im going to take the wrong one and end up in Jo'burg!

dom
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Re: Topside project

Postby dom » Thu Dec 04, 2008 7:36 am

fivesix wrote:http://maps.google.com/maps?hl=en&ie=UTF8&ll=-34.076123,18.396006&spn=0.035262,0.087547&t=h&z=14

Could you point to it please? :thumright

theres a lot of trails down there and you know im going to take the wrong one and end up in Jo'burg!

No.

Part of the enjoyment of the topside is getting lost (Guy Holwill's guides graciously help you to do this if you can't manage yourself :) ), which is really difficult if you follow the path and don't turn off it. There's a gigantic aerial that you can't miss.
the fresh prince of darkness

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XMod
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Re: Topside project

Postby XMod » Thu Dec 04, 2008 8:44 am

Dont forget to pack ur GPS, you can track yourself getting lost! I hear they work really well near the aerial too. :?: :arrow: :| :alien: :cyclops: :drunken:

Now that you are lost, which one of the six million boulders do you want to climb? Pick one any one...

jehlers
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Re: Topside project

Postby jehlers » Thu Dec 04, 2008 11:48 am

The Topside guide is for sale at City Rock. Without it you are totaly screwed, with it you are only partly screwed.

fivesix
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Re: Topside project

Postby fivesix » Thu Dec 04, 2008 7:53 pm

dom wrote:
fivesix wrote:http://maps.google.com/maps?hl=en&ie=UTF8&ll=-34.076123,18.396006&spn=0.035262,0.087547&t=h&z=14

Could you point to it please? :thumright

theres a lot of trails down there and you know im going to take the wrong one and end up in Jo'burg!

No.

Part of the enjoyment of the topside is getting lost (Guy Holwill's guides graciously help you to do this if you can't manage yourself :) ), which is really difficult if you follow the path and don't turn off it. There's a gigantic aerial that you can't miss.


Well i guess seen as Ive never even been to the boulderfield i guess i cant ask for too much! but thanks for the advice!

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XMod
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Re: Topside project

Postby XMod » Thu Dec 04, 2008 8:33 pm

Dont be disheartened FiveSix! When we say getting lost is an integral part of the Topside experience, its a good thing, and inevitable once you start to explore, which is really the true allure of this area. Its a vast and complex network of thousands of rock outcrops, Ive wandered for hours up there sometimes not even setting down the mat - without ever being bored. Hell Ive even moved house to be closer to it!

Buy the guide if you want to find specific stuff or to get you going but nothing beats finding your own stuff, there's definitely still worthwhile problems to be found, with so many outcrops and boulders there has to be. Even spotting a potential classic only to find chalk on it upon closer inspection is something of a thrill, a validation of your eye for a line! You are on the right track!
Happy hunting! :thumleft:

fivesix
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Re: Topside project

Postby fivesix » Fri Dec 05, 2008 3:05 am

I didnt mean to sounds so 'sour grapes'! its just that i'll only be in town for a few days and wouldnt have the time to go hunting... which by the way can be more exciting than climbing sometimes... ! I never realy get the chance to visit CPT and its just such a beautiful city, I was hoping that I could jump out there for an afternoon and find just a couple of the ultra classics, making sure that the image in my mind remains as prestien as every other day I've ever spent in CPT!

I know that i'll be climbing Table mountain (weather permitting) on friday the 19th but i was wondering if any of you maybe available on thursday for a short session?

I dont have a pad just shoes chalk and harness... and draws i guess!?

Cheers

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XMod
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Re: Topside project

Postby XMod » Fri Dec 05, 2008 8:30 am

A short session? Aah pity, the real meat is all rather far from the road so you will only get a taster. The Shady Nook area is close to the car featuring Slam Dunk 7a (dyno), the uber classic Sex Traverse 6c+ (40 move monster) and more, or the old 'Main' boulder is also a short walk with mainly easier although tricky highballs.

PM me closer to the time and I'll see if Im free but you may have a better session with a true died in the wool boulderer such as Dom who will know some other areas, not necessarily Topside, there are many new areas being developed. Check out Marz's site
http://www.cutloose.ca.tt/

dom
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Re: Topside project

Postby dom » Fri Dec 05, 2008 2:47 pm

fivesix wrote:I didnt mean to sounds so 'sour grapes'! its just that i'll only be in town for a few days and wouldnt have the time to go hunting... which by the way can be more exciting than climbing sometimes... ! I never realy get the chance to visit CPT and its just such a beautiful city, I was hoping that I could jump out there for an afternoon and find just a couple of the ultra classics, making sure that the image in my mind remains as prestien as every other day I've ever spent in CPT!

I know that i'll be climbing Table mountain (weather permitting) on friday the 19th but i was wondering if any of you maybe available on thursday for a short session?

I dont have a pad just shoes chalk and harness... and draws i guess!?

Cheers


At the risk of sounding blasphemous, if you have a day then go to Redhill (there's a guide on the net somewhere) - the areas have more problems (especially between 7A and 7B), more hard problems and are easier to find/navigate.

Part of the allure of the Topside is that the areas are small and widely-spaced - without (hell, even with, in some cases) a guide or a tour guide, you can spend a day wandering around without finding the goods.

I am in town and on leave on the 18th and you're welcome to PM me if you feel like tagging along to wherever I'm going bouldering then, which is a better idea than anyone trying to type out descriptions to the roof project (unless you're dead set on trying something hard, then I'll try to point you at the good hard problems, i.e not 'Ard 'Ay).

dom
the fresh prince of darkness

fivesix
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Re: Topside project

Postby fivesix » Thu Dec 11, 2008 7:36 pm

any 8A's round Cape town? Redhill sounds like the place for me ... I'll be there thursday the 18th if anyone else is available?

dom
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Re: Topside project

Postby dom » Fri Dec 12, 2008 6:36 am

fivesix wrote:any 8A's round Cape town? Redhill sounds like the place for me ... I'll be there thursday the 18th if anyone else is available?


There are a couple in the topside and 2 at TDA (which are both pretty grim). But Redhill has the best density of hard problems outside Rocklands - 4 or 5 7Cs, 2 7C+s, 2 8As and an 8A+ within 50m of one another - most of them quality problems too. If that's your bag, then go to Redhill.
the fresh prince of darkness

fivesix
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Re: Topside project

Postby fivesix » Fri Dec 12, 2008 8:46 pm

dom wrote:
fivesix wrote:any 8A's round Cape town? Redhill sounds like the place for me ... I'll be there thursday the 18th if anyone else is available?


There are a couple in the topside and 2 at TDA (which are both pretty grim). But Redhill has the best density of hard problems outside Rocklands - 4 or 5 7Cs, 2 7C+s, 2 8As and an 8A+ within 50m of one another - most of them quality problems too. If that's your bag, then go to Redhill.


yea .... right... ! not to say that ive ever done one of those just that i think that should be our way of thinking!!! one could do one of those if they put mind and power to it!!!

anyone.... anyone going on Thursday the 18th??? (selfishly need a pad!) anyone......?

dom
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Re: Topside project

Postby dom » Sat Dec 13, 2008 3:38 pm

fivesix wrote:
dom wrote:
fivesix wrote:any 8A's round Cape town? Redhill sounds like the place for me ... I'll be there thursday the 18th if anyone else is available?


There are a couple in the topside and 2 at TDA (which are both pretty grim). But Redhill has the best density of hard problems outside Rocklands - 4 or 5 7Cs, 2 7C+s, 2 8As and an 8A+ within 50m of one another - most of them quality problems too. If that's your bag, then go to Redhill.


yea .... right... ! not to say that ive ever done one of those just that i think that should be our way of thinking!!! one could do one of those if they put mind and power to it!!!

anyone.... anyone going on Thursday the 18th??? (selfishly need a pad!) anyone......?


speak for yourself, i've already done most of them.

drop me a pm - i may be up to play tour guide, provided you bring enough booze and women.

dom
the fresh prince of darkness

fivesix
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Re: Topside project

Postby fivesix » Mon Dec 15, 2008 12:47 am

dom wrote:speak for yourself, i've already done most of them.

drop me a pm - i may be up to play tour guide, provided you bring enough booze and women.

dom


Sounds good, I'll bring enough women for me and enough booze for you! :lol:

JuzH
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Location: Cape Town

Re: Topside project

Postby JuzH » Wed Dec 17, 2008 3:43 pm

hey all i was trying it a bit last year but then stuff came up. would be psyched to go back, give me a shout if anyone is keen, also the pads there are mine please leave them up there. shot


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