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Rocklands Guide

Posted: Wed Nov 09, 2005 12:42 pm
by Scott Noy
Any new or old info? The guide is almost finished! Last chance...
Anybody with any interesting history, missing problems or funny comments that you would like to contribute, please e-mail me at
It's a pity that most of the information had to be collected from foriegn climbers :? but thanks to the locals that did find the time :-)
Peace out

Posted: Mon Nov 14, 2005 2:04 pm
by Scotsman
Hi Scott. Is this the guide for the \"new\" area in Rocklands formerly known as Alpha Farms?

Will it be available on the site before 8th December 2005 (ie. when I head off to Rocklands)? If not is there a chance you could mail me a draft copy (


Posted: Mon Nov 14, 2005 5:46 pm
by Scott Noy
No dude I doing a complete guide of Rocklands including all the known areas, any info to add? A bit late know but...
Michael Janata is doing a De Pakhuys previously know as Alpha Farms guide for the owner, better contact him he probably knows more about the area...

Posted: Tue Nov 15, 2005 1:05 pm
by Guy
Hey Scott - great job!

Have you got input from several people regarding descriptions and grades? I can think of a few problems where the original grades are miles from the truth, eg:

Fred's problem \"behind\" Baboon Master (going towards Pendragon) was 7b, now only 6a (if you use the jam)
Secret of Olives Preserve Cupboard piss easy 7b
Dragonfly - might be world's hardest 7a+
The warm-ups at Riverside are probably 2 number grades too high
The warm-up at Roadside is 6a not 7a
Carbunkle Traverse - I'd like to believe I can climb 7c...
etc etc

I honestly recommend getting as many views as is practical - trust me, comments later on will really irritate you. I'm happy to proof it for you - and give my 2c worth.



Posted: Tue Nov 15, 2005 7:13 pm
by Stu
Nice one Guy, you're the first one to respond with something here! Come on guys anyone else got something to offer. Scott's up at Rocklands right now putting thefinishing touches on the guide. It will be sent to Tony soon so any info will be appreciated. Anyone got any amazing pictures they would like to share.

Posted: Fri Nov 18, 2005 9:02 am
by Guest
further small change....

- Thought that The Woody was v.soft for 7b probably 7a/7a+;
- Much Ado About Nothing isn't 7b+ but rather 7a+;
- Thought Cossack was about right;
- Where do you go from here feels maybe a bit soft;
- Smiley feels about right although I can't claim it as my feet touched on the last move.

Guy...sadly I am still failing miserably on the Secret to Olive's Preserve.....might just be an ability problem or a cr*p sequence but I thought it was quite tricky. :oops:

I've heard, fairly reliably, that the Rack at the Fortress is 7b not 7c (from Fred and others) not that I have been on it myself and there seems to be issues with the start holds for the problem left of Stargate (completely forgotten the name). Apparently if you don't start in a low gaston then it is much easier than 7c.

The Campground dyno is also apparently not 7c although some people dispute this...maybe 7b+ is more appropriate?

Hope this helps or raises more confusion.

Posted: Fri Nov 18, 2005 9:39 am
by Greg Hart
Offtopic: Nothing to do with the Rocklandz guide but are you aware that there is a 'beta' section in this forum that no-one seems to be utilizing? Check it out and share your secret sequence!

Posted: Fri Nov 18, 2005 9:48 am
by MarkM
Here are a couple from my side:

Road Crew
Roof on Fire - 6B+/6C (Not 7A)
Cedar Spine - 7A+/7B (Not 7B+ or 7C)

Baboon - Really hard at 7A!
Dragonfly - Really hard at 7A+

Upper Campground
Head to Head - 6C (not 7A)

Mike's Dyno - 6C+/7A (No way 7B!)


Posted: Fri Nov 18, 2005 9:53 am
by Greg Streatfield
The problem you are thinking of is \"Under my Thumb\" - crouch start is 6C+/7A IMO.

Agree with all comments and grades given above.

Baboon is way hard at 7A especially - 7B?


Great work

Posted: Fri Nov 18, 2005 12:17 pm
by Michael Janata
Hi Scott,

great work, good that someone made the effort to write a guide book. Cant wait to see it.

My only comment is JOHN DENVER which I did with Guy Holwill and we both thought its never 7B. I would say maybe 7A or even 6C+.

Pity that De Pakhuys is closed right now but I am planning to finish the PDF guide by beginning of April, just in time for the new season. After that the area should be reopened again.


Posted: Fri Nov 18, 2005 5:02 pm
by Greg S
Just thinking now, Ron Ron and Caramel possibly also needs a down grade - Clinton and Sean both thought 7c/7c+ and not 8A.

Posted: Sat Nov 19, 2005 10:03 am
by d0m
My feelings (and I've spoken to Scott about most of these):
- Cossack: 7A+ max
- Pieds dans de l'eau: 7A
- Would have thought 6C for L'Aise Blaise, but then again I haven't tried it with the hand jam
- 7B/+ for the Rack (but I haven't done it)
- 7B/+ for Frenchside Roof
- Under My Thumb (high start): 7A+
- Much Ado About Nothing: 7A+/B
- Mike's Dyno felt right for 7A+/B
- Campground Dyno (Lord Greystoke): 7Bish
- Where Do You Go FRom Here: 7A
- Ron-ron.. isn't 8A, not if I can almost do it in a session

THat's my R0.02.


Posted: Sun Nov 20, 2005 3:02 pm
by barracuda
hi! i´m one of the austrian guys who opened the alpha-farm-bouldering area.
during our \"work\" i shot some nice pics. if anyone want to use them for his/her guidebook please contact me. check out my gallery at:
i hope that the area will be reopened soon!