Long routes in Cape

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iank
Posts: 104
Joined: Wed Jun 14, 2006 8:50 am
Location: Joburg

Long routes in Cape

Postby iank » Tue Dec 11, 2007 2:57 pm

Hi
Will be in Hermanus over Xmas / New Years. Wanting to take wife climbing after a long lay off(the wife, not me). Looking for long trad up to about grade 16. Preferably not on the peninsula (too much traffic, too many tourists), Within day tripping distance from Hermanus. Figured something like Smalblaar ridge would be good. Any other suggestions?

Cheers
Ian

Brussel
Posts: 186
Joined: Mon Jan 23, 2006 1:52 pm

Postby Brussel » Tue Dec 11, 2007 4:04 pm

smallblar is a short route with a LONG walkin. If your wife oculd handle one pitch of 17 then I would suggest exposure in F. It has one 17 the rest all 15 or less. about 8 pitches of climbing. Check out http://www.climbing.co.za/topo/pdf/Expo ... f_Trad.pdf

it is about a 12 hour round trip ( not climbing or walking overly fast) and does require some level of mountain fitness...

Otherwise (on the peninsula tho) slangolie is awesome too...

Brent

iank
Posts: 104
Joined: Wed Jun 14, 2006 8:50 am
Location: Joburg

Postby iank » Tue Dec 11, 2007 5:23 pm

Brent
I thought about Slangolie, do you have a topo? I remember there was one in SA Mountain mag a long while back, but was unable to find it. Wife should be able to handle one pitch of 17. The descent on Exposure looks a bit involved though?

Cheers
Ian

adamr
Posts: 40
Joined: Tue Oct 09, 2007 7:22 pm
Real Name: Adam Roff

Postby adamr » Tue Dec 11, 2007 5:48 pm

the hangklip frontal is well worth doing. about 14/15 and 6 or so pitches. and it's just round the corner from hermanus. you'll have to dig a description out of the mcsa journals. Watch for blister bush on the descent.

Stu
Posts: 573
Joined: Thu Jun 02, 2005 7:13 pm

Postby Stu » Tue Dec 11, 2007 8:09 pm

If you do try Exposure be aware that the descent is VERY involved, as well as the walk-in. It's not easy navigating if you haven't done it before. If you have a friend that has done the route, I would recommend getting them on the phone for a rundown...

Brussel
Posts: 186
Joined: Mon Jan 23, 2006 1:52 pm

Postby Brussel » Tue Dec 11, 2007 9:14 pm

Hey Ian,

The exposure F descent is reasonably complex, but not overly so. similar with walk in, gthe waterfall you have to cross on teh walkin looks blimming improbable but is rally easy. I'd be more than happy to talk on the phone with you and give you more info if you wanted to do it (the PDF link I sent you is quite clear though)

As for slangolie. I lost the topo too. But it is fairly straightforward climb up the face. It is a fine route with one 16 pitch and the rest 14 or less...you could try info@samountainmag.com and see if they can help you out.

Happy climbing,
Brent

GarethFrost
Posts: 61
Joined: Tue Jul 31, 2007 7:44 am
Location: Gauteng, Pretoria

Postby GarethFrost » Wed Dec 12, 2007 9:45 am

Hey Ian
I would not recommend climbing Exposure in F, it's not an easy route to follow if you are accustomed to fairly direct lines. It tends to wonder around a bit. Also, that approach/descent is hectic if you are not fit. Do not under estimate these Cape okes who have shins of steel from bashing though \"Pynbos\". If you are gonna go climbing in that area make sure you check the weather report as you can get misted in really quickly if a front comes through. I think I have a Smalblar RD at home...

You could also consider trying one of the big routes up near Montagu. The crag that has all those long sport routes also produces some awsome trad lines. I did one there with Hector a few years back. With your route finding skills you should quite easily be able to pick a line up the wall.

Russell Warren
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Real Name: Russell Warren
Location: Durban

Postby Russell Warren » Wed Dec 12, 2007 10:14 am

Eagles Folly on the Buttress to the right of the Cogmans Sport routes buttress has a 7 pitch Grade 16 which will take about 8-9hours car to car. Route finding is as simple as can be!

Climbed it last week. First two pitches a bit messy, but after that the climbing is superb. In SAM magazine issue 6 or 7 I think has the RD and a photo of the line. If you don't come right my folks live in Hermanus so I can leave the info with them for you to collect.

iank
Posts: 104
Joined: Wed Jun 14, 2006 8:50 am
Location: Joburg

Postby iank » Thu Dec 13, 2007 12:38 pm

Hi

Thanks for the feedback. Reckon maybe Exposure will be a bit much for the old lass. Have done Eagles folly on Cogmans before, was lots of fun. That is the sort of route we will be interested in. So any other similar suggestions would be handy.

Cheers
Ian

iank
Posts: 104
Joined: Wed Jun 14, 2006 8:50 am
Location: Joburg

Postby iank » Fri Dec 14, 2007 9:28 am

Does anybody have the MCSA journals of 1984, 1992? There are articles regarding Hangklip in those that I'm interested in.
Last edited by iank on Mon Apr 01, 2013 3:49 am, edited 1 time in total.

iank
Posts: 104
Joined: Wed Jun 14, 2006 8:50 am
Location: Joburg

Postby iank » Sun Dec 16, 2007 7:47 pm

Hi
Got route descriptions for Groot Hangklip in MCSA journal Issue 92 (1989). I mentions that you have to cross private land to get to the base of the routes and that the land owners should be contacted before going and to contact the Cape Town section for the latest arrangements. Any ideas who I can talk to? Who is in charge of land and access at the Cape Town section?

Cheers
Ian

Pony
Posts: 40
Joined: Fri May 18, 2007 10:03 am

Postby Pony » Mon Dec 17, 2007 9:55 am

Hi
Any chance of getting these routes on the wiki too?
I have hiked to the peak and its an awesome spot with regular black eagle
sightings... 8)

iank
Posts: 104
Joined: Wed Jun 14, 2006 8:50 am
Location: Joburg

Postby iank » Wed Jan 02, 2008 10:24 am

Hi
Back from the Cape. We climbed the Frontal toute on Hangklip. Was lots of fun. First pitch is a bit arb, 2nd-4th pitches are good, 5th pitch is a pile of choss. 6 pitch is really good with awesome exposure. Never got hold of MCSA people for access so we rocked up and walked up the hill behind the \"hotel\". Didn't get into any trouble.... (touch wood). There is a faint path that you can pick up. The MCSA Journal to use is Issue nr 92 (Year 1989). Thanks for Russel Warren for lending me his copy. I reckon the 5th pitch can be avoided by going left around the huge overhangs, quite a bit steeper but the rock looks good and it will be nice and exposed. Descent is not arbitrary, we didn't go down the first obvious gully, too steep and bushy for my blood. Walked a little further down the ridge and found a reasonble slope to go down. Also found water on descent which was handy. There is a path up the back of Hangklip that starts somewhere around Silversands. So if you can get somebody to drop you off on one side and pick up on the other then it will be a whole lot more pleasant coming down.

Cheers
Ian


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