De Pakhuys trad climbing

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Joined: Mon Oct 16, 2006 8:53 am
Real Name: Charles Edelstein
Location: Cape Town

De Pakhuys trad climbing

Postby SNORT » Mon Nov 12, 2007 9:52 am

I went to De Pakhuys for the first time this last weekend. There is some great trad climbing with amazing splitter cracks everywhere. Did a pretty good trad climb where there were a whole bunch of superfluous bolts on a route that I think was named Face Book? It has bomb proof trad gear so it never has to to be re-bolted when the bolts eventually degenerate. Thought I would call the trad version Face-off. Thought the grade was closer to 19 than to 20.

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Postby Stephen » Mon Nov 12, 2007 10:13 am


I've always looked in awe at those cliff in Pakhuys pass. Do you have/know of any RD's for existing routes there? I've seen the odd journal entry, just wondering if there is anything more comprehensive. Seems like there's much scope for new routes as well?


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Postby Richard » Mon Nov 12, 2007 7:49 pm

I've also \"investigated\" the trad climbing at De Pakhuys, recently, and many years ago, before bouldering and sport climbing, and agree with you Snort. Some excellent lines there and, yes, many of those bolts are unnecessary. Having been there years ago I was somewhat dismayed by what I found there recently. The bouldering impact up there, and the bolts, left a sour taste! I know we have to be all PC and allow sport climbing its place, BUT it's now getting ridiculous.
Re. the main Pakhuis Crags, I've done a few of the classics and many of them are worthwhile. ADK's so called \"book of lies\" describes most of them. Quite accurately actually.

Excuse what might be misconceived as an attack on sport climbing but I have just had a cervical fusion and can't climb for months, and am quite bitter about that! There is definitely a little niche somewhere for sport climbing. :D

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