Trad routes - from Germany

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Trad routes - from Germany

Postby Tanya » Fri Jul 27, 2007 11:52 am


we want to do some trad climbing in Western Cape in Dec/Jan this year. It would be great if somebody could recommend us some excellent routes.

We like: good, solid rock. We prefer: routes that are repeated regulary. We do NOT like: bad rock, difficult route finding, no possibility to place gear, horrible descents etc. . On gear we climb SA 16 up to (maybe) SA 23.

So far we have planned to go to Wolfberg. Maybe Tafelberg and Du Toits Kloof. Maybe Swartberg. Maybe....?

Thanks a lot for your help and many greetings from Germany to beautiful South Africa.

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Postby scottnoy » Fri Jul 27, 2007 11:56 am

Table Mountain!!!
Good guide avaliable

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Postby Hector » Fri Jul 27, 2007 1:09 pm

Wolfberg is awesome and the classics are easy to find: Celestial Journey, Alone in Space, Energy Crisis are must-do's.
Also check out Krakadouw, also in the Cedarberg. Many, many classics on brilliant rock.
You'll find some loose rock and interesting route finding at Swartberg and the descents can be very involved.

Nic Le Maitre
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Postby Nic Le Maitre » Fri Jul 27, 2007 1:14 pm

Hi Tanya

You could try Muizenberg and Elsies Peak, both are very close to the centre of Cape Town and have great guide books. Alos the routes are climbed often and so are pretty clean. \"Peninsula Rock vol 1\" covers both crags.

As Scott said, Table Mountain is awesome, there are some absolute classics there. Such as Jacobs ladder and Arrow Final. The guidebook is called \"The Ledge\".

The cedarberg is amazing, you can't beat the climbing there. Try Omega, Energy Crisis and Celestial Journey at the Wolfberg. I don't know mauch about the routes on Tafelberg but there are topos on this site.

I would stay away from Du Toits without some one whoi has climbed the route before as a guide. Climbs there without a guide have a bad habit of turning into epics.

All the guidebooks are available from climbing stores in Cape Town, see or

One last thing: Bring LOTS of long slings to extend your placements because most of the routes are NOT straight.

Happy climbing

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Postby Tanya » Fri Jul 27, 2007 8:18 pm

Thanks a lot for answers ! We'll definitely go to Wolfberg and Tafelberg. Apropos Krakadow: we would love to go there for climbing, also because we like nature and especially the Cedarbergs a lot. I am just wondering if Krakadow might be to hot in December because it is recommended for spring/autumn on this website. Maybe I should contact MCSA.

Nic Le Maitre
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Postby Nic Le Maitre » Tue Jul 31, 2007 2:03 pm

Hi there

The whole of the Cedarberg region is very hot (+/- 35C) between December and February, but you can usually climb there in the mornings and evenings. Just find a shady spot by a river in the middle of the day...

Happy climbing

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Postby Justin » Tue Jul 31, 2007 2:29 pm

Wolfberg is climbable in Summer, however you need to get an early start (05:00 - 06:00). You can normally climb 2 routes (depending) in the morning shade and then spend the rest of the day at the river (or under a bed :)
If you are there for a few days, stash your gear at the top so you don't have to carry it up each day.
You can go bouldering in the late afternoon in the Valley of the Red Gods.

Take lots of water and sun screen
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Postby GarethFrost » Tue Jul 31, 2007 4:31 pm

Yes Wolfberg is most likely going to be HOT in December but be prepare for freak cold weather too.
A couple of years ago, while on a Cape road trip, myself and two other mates visited the Cedarberg area in December to climb at Wolfberg. The weather up till then had been really hot but a cold spell hit us one day and we froze our butts off. I got sick and stayed in the camp and my two mates who went to climb Celestial Journey had to back off the route because of the cold.
Beautiful and bizarre place :)

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Postby Tanya » Fri Aug 03, 2007 9:01 pm

We have been to Western Cape in Dec 2004 for sport climbing. Yes, it was hot ! But climbing was good (get up early, climb in the shade). After all, Dec in sunny SA is much better then Dec in cold and rainy Europe - at least for us.

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