Morgans Bay and Oribi Gorge

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Joined: Wed May 09, 2007 9:55 pm

Morgans Bay and Oribi Gorge

Post by fatclimber » Wed May 09, 2007 10:00 pm

I am planning a trip down past Oribi Gorge and Morgans bay and was wondering if anyone knows about sport climbing in either of these areas.

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Post by Marshall » Wed May 09, 2007 10:09 pm

Morgan Bay has 8 scattered sport lines. More of a trad area. Range 19 - 27ish. Bolts could be dodge...close to the sea.

PM your address for RD extracts.

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Morgan Bay climbs

Post by DavidM » Thu May 10, 2007 1:08 am

Morgan Bay IS more of a trad area but a lot of the climbs are very short and some of the lines are close together. Some routes have top anchors but most require gear. There are numerous different crags, stacks and pillars. Walk ins are short but the sloping ground and slippery grass around the bases can be a little nerve-wracking when staring straight down at pounding waves and rocky shore.

I recently spent 4 days at Morgan Bay and was initially disappointed when I saw the length of most of the routes (most around 5-15m, though some classics are longer). The quality of the climbing is excellent though and the setting superb. In the end I found it easiest to lead a route, set up an anchor at the top and then use the same anchor for neighbouring routes or for a top rope. There is also a lot of bouldering and some of the shorter climbs may actually make better high-ball problems.

The rock is excellent dolerite and is mostly crack climbing. Most of the climbs are single pitches though there are a few multi-pitch climbs. Although some of the areas did get a little schlauky I never found it detracted from the climbing.

An incomplete set of downloaded RD's is available at the Hotel Reception but be prepared to beg to use it or to leave a deposit. Give yourself a couple of hours to read the RD's before setting off because it can otherwise be VERY confusing. I'd suggest downloading your own copies before you go, they can be found on the MCSA Natal website.

Also, don't stay at the Hotel campsite in Morgan Bay itself, this is expensive, gets crowded and is not as nice as the other campsite at Double Mouth, +/- 4km down the coast. The distance to the climbing is much the same but Double Mouth is more secluded and much better value.

David :D

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Location: PTA

Post by mkboy » Thu May 10, 2007 8:36 am

Some RD's and other info For Morgan's bay:


I agree, would rather stay at Double mouth campsite, much more secluded.

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