Mysteries of the Lion's Head Granite

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Joined: Thu Feb 01, 2007 12:20 pm

Mysteries of the Lion's Head Granite

Post by DavidM » Sun May 06, 2007 11:58 pm

I've been struggling to locate the following climbs at the granite as I've not been able to find any references for them apart from grades and names.

The climbs in question are:
-Tea time is Over (sport)
-Free at Last (sport)
-Jono Fisher's Project (sport)
-The Incredible Cookie Monster

Does anyone have any information about the route using the bolt and piton above the memorial plaque at Gwilym's Rest (at the tea cave)?

Left of The Reurn of the Edi is an arete above an enormous flake that is seperated from the face. Above the flake a bolt with a lot of old ab cord is visible. Anyone know what route this is?

Finally, immediately left of Scottini's Chimney and about 10m right of Jam-puff is a shallow recessed/scooped face on excellent, compact granite. A bolted line of old, hanger-less bolts runs up the face. Can anyone shed some light on this?

Thanks, any help would be greatly appreciated.

David Mercer

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Joined: Wed May 31, 2006 12:11 pm
Location: Cape Town

LH Granite RD's

Post by MIKESCOTT » Mon May 07, 2007 10:39 am

Hi David,
The bolt and peg above the tea spot is Ed's route \"Tea Time is Over\". Your other queries are mostly answered in ADK and Colenso's 1989 booklet 'Western Cape Rock'. For example the concave wall with bolts is Colenso's climb \"Visions of Ed\" 24. Send your e-mail address to me at and I will copy the relevant pages to you.
Mike Scott

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