Du Toit's Kloof Beta needed

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Du Toit's Kloof Beta needed

Postby rocklooney » Mon Feb 26, 2007 7:07 am

We want to climb \"Exposure in F Major\" behind Du Toit's Hotel. Had a look at it last weekend but could not work out the route from the ground based on the topo. Any useful information from someone who has climbed it would be most appreciated, i.e. route, gear required, duration of climb, descent, conditions etc.

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Postby Justin » Mon Feb 26, 2007 9:46 am

Topos Section: www.climb.co.za/topo.asp?id=31
The topo is from an old MCSA guide; recommend you get additional info. Take plenty of water.
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Postby steve » Mon Feb 26, 2007 10:01 am

3 of us climbed it on Saturday. Conditions were perfect, the climb was in the shade all day. The walk-in was much easier than usual as the recent fire has incinerated all the vegetation. The RD Justin posted is pretty accurate, but you need to follow it well as there is definitely scope for going off route in one or two places. I'd recommed looking at a photo or asking someone to point the route out as it's quite difficult to describe exactlywhere it starts. It takes the right hand skyline of a buttress on the Witteberg, left on an obvious slit/gulley. Take care to get the approach right. The walk down the Cascades route was also fairly straighforward and there was a welcome trickle of water in the gully on the way down. Awesome day out, go and do it. We started the approach walk at the Molenaars River bridge about 2 km on the Cape Town side of the Resort. Good luck

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Postby Brussel » Tue Feb 27, 2007 9:49 am

I have some pics showing walk in and walkout if you like? PM me with your email and I'll send them to you.

In terms of the other questions figure on all day, probably a 12 hour round trip unless you climb quite fast. The walkin is about 2 hours as is the walk out. The climb is around 8-12 pitches depending on how you link them and how long yor ropes are!

Gear needed is a standard country rack (full rack of cams and nuts, some slings, prussick etc) twin ropes as there is some meandering and drag can be a schlep.

The crux is 17 and the rest is blissful jug hauling in a great location on (mostly) great rock!

You want to do this in summer as in winter it is a waterfall!

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Exposure routefinding.

Postby Brent » Tue Feb 27, 2007 11:59 am

I've done it a few times and can vouch for the previous comment that it really is better if you take someone along who has done the route before. Did it last just before the fire, and the veg isn't too much of a problem on the walk-in.

There is scope for going off route. This can get pretty serious (there has been one fatality from someone who went off route and fell) so take care. Also, take a cell phone, and do let someone know that you're going to be up there. We usually leave our vehicles at the MCSA hut parking area, and walk from there, it doesn't add much time to the walk-in, and you don't have the risk of leaving your car on the highway.

Do it in summer. Unless you are looking for a nice chilly epic in the dark. If you move fast, you should manage to top out by lunchtime (although having said that, I confess to having had to bivvy overnight on top, once).

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