RD's for Lion's Head needed for Guide Book

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DavidM
Posts: 27
Joined: Thu Feb 01, 2007 12:20 pm

RD's for Lion's Head needed for Guide Book

Postby DavidM » Thu Feb 01, 2007 12:43 pm

I'm hoping to publish a guide book to Lion's Head including the Granite and Sandstone Routes. Although many route descriptions exist in MCSA journals and some in the UCTMSC Bulletins there are numerous lines that appear to have been climbed (cairns in evidence) but for which I have been unable to find any records. If you have climbed new routes on Lion's Head that haven't appeared in Journals, UCTMSC Bulletins or SACC Latest Climbs Guide then please furnish me with an RD to avoid someone else claiming your line as a first recorded ascent. I will also leave a notebook and pen at the Tea Cave area in which climbers can record new routes, suggestions etc.
Any contributions will be greatly appreciated.
I am also trying to find out the exact locations of \"The Incredible Cookie Monster\", \"Romeo\" and \"Juliet\" on the granite slabs.

Thanks, David

Brussel
Posts: 186
Joined: Mon Jan 23, 2006 1:52 pm

Postby Brussel » Fri Feb 02, 2007 10:42 am

\"Astronaut\" 19+. Opened by Brent Russell and Guillaume du Toit c.2004

Starts on the upper ledge (there is a potential first pitch from the tea cave, but have not yet opened it)

P1 - Starts just to the right of the recess of Aquanaut. Start up the short face split near the top by a y-shaped crack. Belay from the ledge (10m)

P2 - start up the steep crack on the left of the ledge step right and traverse to the base of the large steeply overhanging flake. Climb the flake on good gear to a jug where you can rest. Continue up to the ledge and the abseil tree. (25m)

ab off

Can be climbed quite easily in a single pitch

let me know if you want a picture of the route

Brussel
Posts: 186
Joined: Mon Jan 23, 2006 1:52 pm

Postby Brussel » Fri Feb 02, 2007 10:51 am

ps we are not a hundred percent certain we where the first ascentionists...Evidently Mike Scott was eyeing the line some weeks back. And if he has not climbed it then I am pretty sure it had not been climbed!

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MIKESCOTT
Posts: 27
Joined: Wed May 31, 2006 12:11 pm
Location: Cape Town

Lion's head routes

Postby MIKESCOTT » Fri Feb 02, 2007 3:16 pm

Hi David, (and Brent),
When you research RD info, be aware that some guidebook writers have made mistakes (eg opening party names for Silhouette Crack in Cape Rock are wrong), and some opening parties climb existing lines and think they are new (cf part of Cub and Juggernaught overlap). If you succeed in working out where Rusty Baillie's route 'Gold' on the sandstone goes by following his description in the UCTMSC bulletin then the beer is on me. Brent, your Astronaught pitch has had a second ascent, but you were probably the first opening party.
Regards and good luck.
Mike Scott

Brussel
Posts: 186
Joined: Mon Jan 23, 2006 1:52 pm

simba serindipity

Postby Brussel » Mon Apr 02, 2007 1:50 pm

Hey guys,

I'd be interested if anyone has tried a direct line to simba serindipity.

I climbed the line a month back then went again two weeks ago. We climbed simba serindipity and then top-roped a direct variation that I hope to go back and free this week(end), as we ran out of time (and energy!)

Basically where Simba Serindipity's 21 pitch goes up the steep crack and then mantles onto the ledge on the left, we continued up the very steep layback crack instead of the mantle. It is only the last 5 meters or so that is a variation. It look s like it will go at 22/23 on lead...be interested to see if it had been done before as it is a superb line with great moves. The original line is pretty brilliant on it's own!

Stu
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Joined: Thu Jun 02, 2005 7:13 pm

Postby Stu » Mon Apr 02, 2007 3:17 pm

I would suggest finding Guy Holwill's Western Cape Crags, 1994. It has most of the lines apart from a couple which you'll find in the Journals.

geeom
Posts: 3
Joined: Sun Sep 10, 2006 10:22 pm
Location: Cape Town

Astronaut ?

Postby geeom » Mon Apr 09, 2007 1:07 am

hehehe! so is that what we agreed on calling it...
anyhow sounds like a suitable name Brent ;)
My apologies for only getting to this discussion now. Thought I'd also give my 2cents.
I think the line was harder than 19 hey?
I recon it goes at 21 onsight. If thats anything to go by...
I'd describe it as one pitch rather of 20m+. From base through
overhanging flake and into a rest corner, traverse right into
front face and climb to belay ledge. 5 star pitch ey B ?
I've got a good topo pic of it if the author is looking for one.

Brussel
Posts: 186
Joined: Mon Jan 23, 2006 1:52 pm

Postby Brussel » Mon Apr 09, 2007 2:49 pm

Hey G!
Long time no hear...I gave it a name that fitted in with the rest of the lines...I have climbed it a number of times since...just never felt quite that hard (first time is always harder!)

Brent

DavidM
Posts: 27
Joined: Thu Feb 01, 2007 12:20 pm

Thank-you to everyone who has replied

Postby DavidM » Tue Apr 10, 2007 11:34 am

Thanks for all the replies. I've been a little distracted by my real job lately but we're steadily making progress. Brent, your variation to Simba Serendipity looks awesome. I've not seen any such mention in my journal searching so it may be your own line! Thanks too for Astronaught, these sort of contributions are exactly what I am looking for. My guide will be covering all routes from scrambles and easy doddles to hard desperates. Any new routes, variations etc will be much appreciated. I see some folk have discovered the Climbers Visitors Book stashed in the Tea Cave, any comments, corrections to existing route descriptions, records of routes done and suggested ratings etc would be great.
Kind regards and thanks again,
David Mercer

geeom
Posts: 3
Joined: Sun Sep 10, 2006 10:22 pm
Location: Cape Town

Astronaut

Postby geeom » Tue Apr 24, 2007 1:04 pm

I've posted a pic of Astronaut with the route marked out.
Image
Go climb it !!

PS. Brent i think posting the onsight grade would make the grading more
practical hey? 21 seems fair for this....

:D

Brussel
Posts: 186
Joined: Mon Jan 23, 2006 1:52 pm

Postby Brussel » Wed Apr 25, 2007 6:27 am

aaaagh Geom I see whe have a misunderstanding. I was talking about the line just right of and close to Clifton crest. (will get justin to add pic)

That line you are pointing out is HARD. I reckon onsight may be even 22+ I tried it some time back when I shoulf have been able to get 22 with a few hangs here and there and it kicked my butt!!

I think I would stick with solid 22

Brussel
Posts: 186
Joined: Mon Jan 23, 2006 1:52 pm

Postby Brussel » Wed Apr 25, 2007 6:29 am

David,

Evidently the direct version of Simba has been climbed :-(

The person who told me could not remember the grade but very hard was the idea!!

Will let you know when I get back up there
Brent

Brussel
Posts: 186
Joined: Mon Jan 23, 2006 1:52 pm

Postby Brussel » Wed Apr 25, 2007 12:53 pm

Ok guys here is the route I was talking about

Image

DavidM
Posts: 27
Joined: Thu Feb 01, 2007 12:20 pm

Postby DavidM » Fri May 04, 2007 10:39 pm

Fantastic, thanks again for all the help, the photos are awesome!

There are still routes on the Granite that I am looking for info on.
I am trying to locate:
-The Incredible Cookie Monster
-Romeo
-Juliet
-Free, at Last

Also, does anyone know whether Knuckleduster begins up the crack and bulges immediately right of Scottini's Chimney or is it the second crack right?

Left of Scottini's Chimney and right of Jam-Puff is a very shallow scooped out face with an ancient-looking line of hanger-less bolts on excellent rock. Does anyone know who takes credit for this line and what it's called, grade, etc?

Right of Cross Crack and left of The Return of the Edi is a very large flake at the base of the vague arete. Above theflake is an old bolt with a lot of ab-cord. What route is this?

And finally, at the tea cave, Gwilym's rest, is a route comprising a bolt and piton above the memorial plaque. Does anyone know what this route is called and it's grade?

Kind regards,
David


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