New route development & line congestion

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Posts: 1629
Joined: Fri Dec 15, 2006 12:32 pm
Real Name: Willem Boshoff
Location: Cape Town

New route development & line congestion

Post by mokganjetsi » Sun Jan 01, 2017 5:16 pm

i have been pondering what is desirable in terms of opening new routes and the congestion of lines.

firstly, some observations:
generally sport routes follow a unique sequence of holds
with the next line being the customary arm's length away
trad routes tend to rather go up a feature e.g. a crack system, open book or winding up a face
hence, at least in the olden days, was more generously spaced
lately however, it seems that trad lines have been going the sport way - in part due to better gear; harder climbing; and increased desperation to get your name in a route guide

i am specifically wondering about this since we are busy cleaning a trad line that runs parallel to an existing one; around 2 to 3m away from the existing line; but that uses a unique set of holds.

what do you guys think is good practice and guidelines to be used?

Posts: 1165
Joined: Mon Oct 16, 2006 8:53 am
Real Name: Charles Edelstein
Location: Cape Town

Re: New route development & line congestion

Post by SNORT » Mon Jan 02, 2017 12:14 pm

I don't think it really matters. A lot of trad lines on Sandstone that include some of the routes on Table Mountain and Blouberg are link-ups and get their own character. Anything that improves a line is worth doing or writing up even if it borrows some part or parts of another line. On TM Sweet dreams is a link up of bits of three different routes.

A trad line is defined entirely by the rock and the gear and where it goes it envisioned by the climber.

Getting your name in a route book is way secondary to the development of a good route that remains as an asset to all climbers forever.

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