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smalblaar ridge

Posted: Sat Apr 13, 2019 4:33 pm
by valconcorner
Anybody know a short cut up the front of the buttress to start SB so as to cut out the looong slog around the ridge to the back of the mnt to start the first pitch
The description : replace pitch 1 with this -
: from the grassy spot below the gendarme take the obvious line on the ridge :
was confusing and not found 3 yrs ago
we landed up ontop of a large buttress with a drop off which we could not cross
Time was waisted and we had to bail
Can a picture with an arrow be supplied to explain the alternate take off
thanks

Re: smalblaar ridge

Posted: Sat Apr 13, 2019 11:10 pm
by Brussel
Hi

see the attached pic. The lower read traverse from the scree is safer, the higher one is shorter but has a couple of airy and not straightforward moves. If you dork it here its going to be ugly.

From the end of the arete if you follow the blue line you'll have an abseil into the notch (tat in situ) and then continue on the ridge
or

the faster option continue around the back of the arete towards the chess pieces and then scramble up a poorly cairned steep gulley and then up further to get around the gendarme on its left (red line) to the stare which is the red circle

hope that helps
Brent

Re: smalblaar ridge

Posted: Mon Apr 15, 2019 9:13 am
by ant
Many an outing has been stalled by that gendarme...

Brent's second option is the significantly faster.
It's about 70m from the spot you can scramble to, to the half-way ledge, and can be simul-climbed.

Ant