Eagle's Arete

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crigs
Posts: 21
Joined: Wed Feb 12, 2014 9:52 am
Real Name: Craig Turvey

Eagle's Arete

Post by crigs » Tue Nov 13, 2018 12:37 pm

Hi there,

Can anyone elaborate as to what "S2" means with regards to the route in Montagu called Eagle's Arête? It appears with the information covering the route name and grade. It says: Eagle's Arête Grade: 19 S2 45m

Thanks

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Nic Le Maitre
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Real Name: Nic Le Maitre
Location: Harrismith

Re: Eagle's Arete

Post by Nic Le Maitre » Tue Nov 13, 2018 12:48 pm

I think it's from Snort and/or Hilton and denotes the seriousness of the climb. There's a reference to it here: http://www.climbing.co.za/2013/05/space ... -mountain/
This time I wasn’t weighed down by hammer and pitons but I was by Camalots no’s 6, 5 and 4. Those babies are big!
The 15m rail across to intersect Last Tango is excellent and gives a fantastic free pitch that goes at about 23 and S3. S3 is a term used by Snort and I to indicate a seriousness factor and more or less adds what feels like 3 grades to the overall toughness.
Happy climbing
Nic

Chris F
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Location: Aberdeen, Scotland

Re: Eagle's Arete

Post by Chris F » Tue Nov 13, 2018 1:09 pm

The old Yorkshire Gritstone Guide used to have similar. P1 safe, P2, a bit fluttery in places, P3, don't fall off anywhere.

crigs
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Joined: Wed Feb 12, 2014 9:52 am
Real Name: Craig Turvey

Re: Eagle's Arete

Post by crigs » Tue Nov 13, 2018 3:19 pm

So where does this "S" grading begin and end? Does it start at 1 and go up to 3? Why not just indicate the route is R or X rated? That is the standard.

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emile
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Re: Eagle's Arete

Post by emile » Tue Nov 13, 2018 4:03 pm

viewtopic.php?t=232#p12068
SNORT wrote:
Tue Aug 28, 2007 11:19 am
Have a look at the RD for Dog Style in the MCSA journal circa 1982. I tried to institute a severity grading S0 to S4. There were no takers.

The British E grading system increases with the grade of the route so an easy but dangerous route will still have a low E grade.

In a route description one can easily interpose a severity grade backed up by a description. I would rate Right Face and Arrow Final at least Severity grade S2 or even grade 3 out of a total of 5 grades. Because a fall in many places would lead to injury of the climber. Most of the routes on TM that are much harder are S0 grade as a fall would not lead to injury of a climber as they are so steep. Even Jacobs Ladder is at least an S1 grade.

One must remember that easier routes are generally less steep and by and large inherently more dangerous!!!!!

S0: Good rock, bomber gear easy to place, no ledges to hit etc. (Most sport routes but bolts do eventually perish)
S1: Some danger in one of the above factors but avoidable with care
S2: A fall at some places on the route likely to be injurious
S3: Extreme care and competance required to be safe.
S4: Is obvious. Extremely risky and dangerous no matter what the competence of the climber. (Effectively Soloing)

crigs
Posts: 21
Joined: Wed Feb 12, 2014 9:52 am
Real Name: Craig Turvey

Re: Eagle's Arete

Post by crigs » Wed Nov 14, 2018 9:45 am

Thanks for the clarification. Much appreciated.

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