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Routes on massive wall above Boschendal??

Posted: Fri Oct 27, 2006 11:50 am
by JonoJ
Forgive my ignorance, or slay my stupidity, but.......

The huge face situated above the Boschendal Wine Farm, looks blerry fantastic. What's it called, are there any routes on it....and if not, why not?

Anyone know anything?


Posted: Fri Oct 27, 2006 4:27 pm
by steve
Duiwelskloof is tucked away in that particular set of mountains. You can see the top of it sticking out behind a feature called Devli's Tooth. There are some great country routes in the kloof e.g. Lucifer and Duiwels direct. The climbs are at least 400m high, depending on which route you do. I'm not sure if there are any routes on the walls directly above Boschendal, but they certainly are huge and must have good route potential. No doubt Mike Scott would probably know about any climbing up there. Duiwels is an awesome spot, although I'm not 100% sure what the access situation is.

Posted: Mon Oct 30, 2006 8:08 am
by JonoJ
Thanks Steve!

Duiwelskloof sounds devilishly good.

Mr Scott, care to share any knowledge on the Boschendal Massif??

Posted: Mon Oct 30, 2006 12:30 pm
by Guy
I've been on that wall (a few million years ago). It's one of the great wonders of the world - how does such a big stack of bricks, dirt and strubs not fall down...

As Jeremy Colenso commented: \"You could never hold a national meet there - because it would fall down if more than 1 party was on the wall!\"

I suggest training on road cuttings before going to climb there.

Posted: Mon Oct 30, 2006 1:30 pm
by JonoJ
Eish, serious!? Whattapity!

After reading about the Sentinel, Hout Bay, it sounds like just your cup o' tea Guy!

Thought there must be something not so kosher about it, since it's so visible yet there's no info to be found about it.

Hmm, sure you're not just deterring others from climbing some nice long projects of yours?? :wink: haha

Aaah well! Plenty more good rock to go around I s'pose.

Posted: Mon Oct 30, 2006 6:07 pm
by Grigri
No its bad Jono, there is a small patch of reddish rock at about two thirds height, = the only good rock on the enitire wall!

Some mountains were made just for looking at!

Posted: Mon Oct 30, 2006 7:51 pm
by Richard
It's called Hutchinson's Buttress. Routes like \"Dehydrate\" to the left, and Jerker, Wanker etc. further right.

Posted: Mon Oct 30, 2006 8:10 pm
by Marshall
Ya, a bit of loose will scare them all off!! How bad could it actuly be?


Posted: Tue Oct 31, 2006 8:07 am
by JonoJ
Grigri wrote:No its bad Jono, there is a small patch of reddish rock at about two thirds height, = the only good rock on the enitire wall!

Some mountains were made just for looking at!
Hawubo! Guess so Greg...and that one coitenly is purdy!

Posted: Tue Oct 31, 2006 12:28 pm
by Richard
While this is certainly not Krakadouw, it's not the worst choss around. Wanker gets repeated every now and then. I know of folk who have done it more than once ! The real problem on these faces is the aspect. They get one HELL of a lot of sun! The routes in Duiwelskloof itself at least keep the shade all morning.

Posted: Tue Oct 31, 2006 12:43 pm
by Guy
What is the worst route/crag in SA? My money is on Fernwood Gully (to the right of the face). According to Tony's thing in the paper - it was first climbed by Travis-Jackson after three days of attempts.

For those not familiar with this route - it is a south facing gully on Table Mountain above Kirstenbosch. It has water running down it all year and it never sees the sun. The rock is really loose and sandy and it's obviously covered in vegetation!! Nice.

Posted: Tue Oct 31, 2006 1:04 pm
by Justin
The top half of the route didnt look that bad... best ask Don or Marijus for a first hand account.

Marijus Smigelskis and Don Burls completing the 'most recent' ascent of Fernwood Face above Newlands

Posted: Tue Oct 31, 2006 7:49 pm
by Grigri
I think Guy is refering to the gully to the right of Fernwood precipice itself. Fernwood precipice looks positively inviting by comparison!!

My bet would be on any of the routes up Corridor Buttress south face. Definitely the most daunting thing Ive rubbed my nose against, thank god foul weather stopped play. Although Im sure there are several routes in the Drakensburg that would rival these two.

Posted: Tue Oct 31, 2006 10:16 pm
by Richard
Having done various Corridor routes (Echo Wall, Vertigo etc.) on more than one occasion, and knowing that a certain Mr Scott has climbed some of them several times, I reckon the Corridor routes are not the worst. Spring Buttress is similar. Donkerkloof has some rock that certainly puts it into contention. Mike and I have done some interesting stuff on south side of Barrier but it was good enough to lure us back for at least a second look.
But, Mr Scott has only done Fernwood GULLY once!

For a true perspective on awful rock though one must visit the UK.

Worst rock and route on table Mountain

Posted: Wed Nov 01, 2006 10:31 pm
Although Fernwood Gully is pretty vile and daunting, the award for the grottiest climb must probably go to Woodhead crack, the slanting recess above the old Slangolie pipe Tunnel entrance (the one that has fallen away in recent years). It vies for top honours against a route on Slangolie buttress itself, named Ghastly Gully, which actually is awful but not as bad as Woodhead crack.

Posted: Wed Nov 01, 2006 11:37 pm
by Grigri
Aaaaand the winner isss! There you have it! from the horse's mouth so to speak (If anyone knows its Mike, who seems to have climbed everything). Two places not to go this summer!

Me Im going to sit on the beach and plan my next trip to Rocklands! :lol:

Posted: Thu Nov 02, 2006 12:19 pm
by Guy
Wow - Woodhead Crack must be truly aweful!!! I've nveer climbed Fernwood Gully - but I live directly below it and I often stare at it in awe of the grim determination of people who've actually climbed it (rather than say changing the oil in their car or doing the dishes).

Surely there must be some stuff in the Berg that is in a similar league?

Posted: Thu Nov 02, 2006 4:05 pm
by JonoJ
From what I've read and heard, I'd say about 80 to 90% of the D'berg is in that league. Crumbs!!!

Aah, one day I'll stand on top of Devils Tooth *sigh*. The Tyrolean traverse 'descent' sounds radical!!!

Posted: Fri Nov 03, 2006 7:11 pm
by Justin
Here is the photo from Mike Scott of 'the Big wall above Boschendal'


Posted: Sat Nov 04, 2006 10:51 am
by Brussel
hmmm judging by the pipe in the lower left and the look of the face that is the grotty diagonal crack on the pipe track Mike was refering to, not boschendal (Hutchinson Buttress)

Happy Climbing!

Posted: Mon Nov 06, 2006 1:32 pm
by Guy
Who is keen for the obvious (slightly bushy) dihedral in the photo?

Posted: Mon Nov 06, 2006 2:19 pm
by Jonat
To find out about the best of the best in rock quality I can suggest a good read by the UK's Mick Fowler, subtitled \"The secret life of a tax collector\". Its very amusing too.