Confused about getting downturning shoe

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jarnov
Posts: 1
Joined: Thu Apr 05, 2018 10:38 pm
Real Name: Aron Brad

Confused about getting downturning shoe

Post by jarnov » Fri Apr 06, 2018 3:08 pm

Hello there ,
I am looking for an advanced downturning shoes ,
I am not very much experienced though, but last time i have climbed with my friend's five ten hiangle and It felt me great to climb with that.Now i am going to purchase for my own .one of our group members told me about
Scarpa mens instinc
I have read them from the reviews but i think it would be better to ask from climbers rather than depending on web information.
Please recommend me what should i go for ?
please explain if possible .Looking forawrd to hear from you .
Thanks in advance

AllisterFenton
Posts: 18
Joined: Mon May 13, 2013 12:58 pm
Real Name: Allister Fenton

Re: Confused about getting downturning shoe

Post by AllisterFenton » Mon Apr 09, 2018 2:57 pm

Hey there

People often associate a downturned toe (aggressive shoe) with an advanced shoe. This is not always the case. Rather than me typing up an essay, check this vid from Epic TV, where they explain it beautifully.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XI8nnHEQdCo

Ordering online is a risky business, especially from overseas suppliers where you will struggle to size your shoes before you buy them. For example, I wear a UK 8 in 5.10 dragons, a UK 7 in Evolv Shamans and a UK 5 in La Sportiva Pythons. The size is just a guide, not to mention matching up the shape of your foot to the shape of the shoe (think width, toe profile, foot volume, heel shape). Better to pop in to CityROCK and try on a few pairs so you at least have a better idea. I'm sure your friends have great advice and love their shoes but there's no guarantee that they'll fit your feet as well as it fits them.

Peace

Allister

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Xenomorph
Posts: 402
Joined: Mon Feb 01, 2010 11:23 am
Real Name: Cormac Tooze
Location: Cape Town

Re: Confused about getting downturning shoe

Post by Xenomorph » Mon Apr 09, 2018 3:51 pm

Hi there,
I don't know If Scarpa is avail. in SA.
If not i don't think importing a pair would be the way to go. This is based on the kinds of questions you are asking.
You also say the Hiangle felt great, why don't you get those?
Allister is right on with his points.
It helps to know your foot type (low, medium or high volume) and your climbing style (sport, trad, bouldering, slab, indoors e.t.c.)
La Sportiva have a great chart explaining performance, comfort & volumes

https://www.sportiva.com/media/wysiwyg/ ... Page_1.jpg

https://www.sportiva.com/media/wysiwyg/ ... Page_2.jpg

Good shoe reviews here:
https://www.outdoorgearlab.com/topics/c ... es/ratings

I agree with Allister to go to http://cityrock.co.za/ and try on a few pairs, but arm yourself with some information first.

Cheers
Cormac

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