Trad in Montagu?!

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Fabe
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Location: Switzerland

Trad in Montagu?!

Postby Fabe » Wed Oct 18, 2006 11:04 am

Hi

A friend and I are coming down to South Africa to climb two months.... In a good week I'll quit my job and we'll start our trip. I can't wait.

We are planing to stay in Montagu for a while. I love sport but trad is even better... Is there any trad climbing in Montagu? On this website there is the symbol for trad climbing in the Montagu section. But I didn't find any information on it... so is there any trad climbing or not?

Cya soon :P

Hector
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Postby Hector » Wed Oct 18, 2006 1:37 pm

Im from joburg so I dont know too much about it, but Montagu has some world class tradding. The place was originally developed as a trad area, and only later bolts took over. Lost World Crag is the place to go. Dont know anything about RD's or access status (its on a farmers land so access is sensitive), Perhaps some Ct guys will fill u in...
I have climbed some big stuff there, making it up as you go along. The climbing was ok - not awesome, but its pretty adventurous stuf. Lots of route finding.

Marshall
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Postby Marshall » Wed Oct 18, 2006 3:11 pm

From the few lines that we did at Lost World, I really rate it. Totaly awesome. Access was tricky. Contact Stuart at De Bos he knows/knew the owner.

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Q20
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Real Name: Richard Halsey
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Postby Q20 » Wed Oct 18, 2006 3:26 pm

Lost World is really excellent, but as mentioned access is \"tricky\". RD in Cape Rock guide by Julian Fisher. I was advised to contact De Bos and they may be able to arrange with the ower of the land where the crag is situated. After a problem at the recent Lost World open day this may have been further complicated.

If Lost World is not accessable, then Eagles Folly (16), 7 pithces - I think, is an easy but fun alternative. Takes a line up the obvious rib to the right (as driving into Montagu from Ashton) of Cogmans buttress. There is a detailed RD in an old SA Mountian mag.

I am sure there are many other routes, probably in MCSA journals. Otherwise as Hector said, make it up for yourself!
One life, one body. Use them well.

petey_w
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Location: Australia

Postby petey_w » Thu Oct 19, 2006 12:00 pm

Has anyone got any scans of this stuff? Pretty difficult to get hold of over here in australia?

George Horn
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Postby George Horn » Thu Oct 19, 2006 5:21 pm

There is also trad at Oorlogs kloof. Descriptions are in one of the MCSA journals.

stuboy
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Postby stuboy » Fri Oct 20, 2006 8:40 am

Hi Fabe

There is loads of trad in Montagu. Cogmans Buttress and Oorlogs, Lost World as mentioned is closed, don't bug the farmer he might just shoot you. I have some R.D.'s here at De Bos, old Guy Holwill (1994) Western Cape Crags, Mike Scotts routes on Cogmans. There is also Karbonaatjeskraal 80km from Montagu where some great trad climbing can be done. Cheers stuart brown[/code]

Fabe
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Location: Switzerland

Postby Fabe » Fri Oct 20, 2006 9:45 am

Hi stuboy

Thank you all for the informations! Defnitly gonna bring my trad rack!!!!
:P
See you soon at De Bos Farm...

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Q20
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Postby Q20 » Fri Oct 20, 2006 10:23 am

As far as I know there are still access problems at Karbonaatjies kraal, which is a pity since it is such a wicked spot. Anyone got any news on this one?
One life, one body. Use them well.

PietSkiet
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Location: Suisse

Postby PietSkiet » Fri Oct 20, 2006 5:23 pm

just because its got bolts, doesn't mean you can't trad it. I certainly have a new respect for the bolts on \"red guitar on fire\" after tradding it. the 3 placements are good, but its airy ...

Fabe
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Location: Switzerland

Postby Fabe » Thu Oct 26, 2006 2:20 pm

Just one last quesiton. Do we need two ropes / a double rope for to rap? We plan to trad climb at the Wolfbergcrack, Swartberg Pass and and the Blydepoort.

Or is a 70m single rope ok? We need to save some wight, as we can only bring 20 kg/person.

DouglasWard
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Postby DouglasWard » Mon Oct 30, 2006 9:03 am

If you really want to enjoy the trad climbing on SA sandstone, at places like Wolfberg, then bring double ropes. I recently came out of a long spell as a single-rope owner, and when I started tradding again it was a mission. The jointed nature of SA sandstone means traverses, 90 deg roofs, placing gear in separate parellel cracks etc = two ropes if you want to have fun.

But you CAN use a single rope, and at most places you can walk/scramble off, so rapping is not the issue.

SNORT
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Postby SNORT » Tue Nov 07, 2006 4:24 pm

Near the De Bos camp site above Mystery is a large flat pannel with 3 trad routes 23/24 and 25 grade. Quite demanding to onsite. Bolted lower offs. Bring two ropes....

DouglasWard
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Postby DouglasWard » Tue Nov 07, 2006 7:57 pm

Snort, I think those routes should be bolted. Montagu is a sport climbing area (to the vast, vast majority), and opening trad routes takes away limited potential climbing from those who only want to climb bolted routes. There are so many areas that we will never bolt in, that are available for tradding, so why not open the trad lines there?

Sorry, just my opinion, but I feel quite strongly about it. Though not strongly enough to be the one to bolt those lines!

SNORT
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Postby SNORT » Wed Nov 08, 2006 7:14 am

Douglas, Patrick McCann went up there years ago and decided not to bolt those routes. My posting is in reply to someone who wants some trad routes!!!!. As do I. Montague and surrounds has potential for at least 10 times the amount of routes that already exist both trad and sport. Check with Stuart Brown - he manages to open routes a dime a dozen. When YOU have bolted all of those, something you probably could not complete

in a a life time, then come back and I shall consider it....
The routes on this panel are demanding but safe as trad routes go. Go climb em first and then you will see that bolting the panel will trivialize the experience. Why is more better?

Karbonaaitjies is considered a trad venue. Funny though that the only sport route I have ever bolted is there! And I don't see the problem because that particular line did not lend itself to being a trad route. And, more importantly does not mess up any of the trad lines that are close on each side!

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Rastaman
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Postby Rastaman » Thu Nov 09, 2006 8:17 am

The word hypocrite comes to mind :wink:

DouglasWard
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Postby DouglasWard » Thu Nov 09, 2006 1:26 pm

Snort, you are right, I should climb the routes first, before making a definitive opinion about them specifically. It was more the general point that I was trying to get across, which you seem to have squashed quite flat as well. Sorry!


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