Best Sport Routes in Cape Town

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crazyflyinggecko
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Real Name: Candice

Best Sport Routes in Cape Town

Postby crazyflyinggecko » Thu Jun 18, 2015 1:55 pm

Hello lovely people of the Cape and beyond,

Since moving to Cape Town about 3 months ago I've been loving all the beautiful trad and boulders on offer in this part of the world but am super psyched to clip bolts and climb some sport routes. Given the current fire damage and weather patterns I have a few questions.

1) Where in and around CT are we actually allowed to climb now? How long will this last?
2) What is your list of best sport climbs over 26/7b?
3) Which of these are currently climbable?
4) Which of these are within 2 hours of Cape Town itself?
5) Which crags are climbable in this INSANE winter rain?
6) Anybody need a catch on their proj?
7) Anybody free to climb from sunrise until around 10am most weekdays?

Thanks guys!

GlennM
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Real Name: Glenn Moncrieff

Re: Best Sport Routes in Cape Town

Postby GlennM » Thu Jun 18, 2015 2:23 pm

On then Peninsula if you want to clip bolts I reckon the Hole and the Mine are the best options at 26+. There are some nice climbs at Silvermine Main crag at around 26.

The trouble with Cape Town is a) winter rain and b) summer wind and schlauk

Silvermine is great in summer because it is protected mostly from the wind, gets decent shade in the afternoon and is safe.
The Mine is good for winter because it has some protection from the rain and doesnt drip unless the rain is gnarly.
The Hole is rad but gets horrible schlauk in summer and drips a lot after rain in winter

Unfortunately...the Hole and Silvermine crags are all closed until about September (if you choose to obey the totalitarian decrees of our TMNP overlords). The mine is good though. Although rangers might tell you otherwise.

Outside of Cape Town, Paarl, Hellfire and Kleinmond all have great climbs in that range. Especially Hellfire. It provides much needed relief from the wind in summer, but can get quite hot. It is mch closer than you think, drive takes not more than 1 hr.

crazyflyinggecko
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Joined: Sun Apr 17, 2011 10:11 pm
Real Name: Candice

Re: Best Sport Routes in Cape Town

Postby crazyflyinggecko » Thu Jun 18, 2015 2:40 pm

Thanks, Hellfire sounds like a plan. With regards to the Mine, what is the protocol? I don’t want to have angry rangers on my case nor threaten access for others.

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Thermophage
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Real Name: Cuan Lohrentz
Location: Cape Town

Re: Best Sport Routes in Cape Town

Postby Thermophage » Thu Jun 18, 2015 3:10 pm

Ja seems all peninsula sport crags are off limits at the moment...and Montagu is under 2 hours away :D
Come boulder Saturday...get strong for sport ;)

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Justin
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Re: Best Sport Routes in Cape Town

Postby Justin » Thu Jun 18, 2015 3:28 pm

crazyflyinggecko wrote:With regards to the Mine, what is the protocol?

The Mine is officially closed.

Thermophage wrote:...and Montagu is under 2 hours away


Montagu is almost exactly a 2 hour drive (Bad Kloof is for the most part out of action due to flood water run off and mud).

GlennM wrote:The Hole is rad but gets horrible schlauk in summer and drips a lot after rain in winter

Only when the SE wind blows :) and don't bother in winter.

Peers Cave is open. However climbers recently had their cars broken into there. So either get dropped off or find secure parking (gated retirement housing down the road).
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jasony
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Real Name: Jason Norwood-Young

Re: Best Sport Routes in Cape Town

Postby jasony » Fri Jun 19, 2015 11:57 am

We've been to Skoorsteenkop in Hout Bay a few times since the fires. It's quite a walk-in but it's beautiful rock. Nothing in the 26 range afaik, more 17s to 23s, but they're worthwhile and you don't have to travel. (At least I'm told the 23's are excellent - I'm more on the 17 side :))

There are padlocks on the gates. See the following for access:
http://www.climbing.co.za/2014/03/skoor ... s-details/

Warren G
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Re: Best Sport Routes in Cape Town

Postby Warren G » Fri Jun 19, 2015 1:50 pm

Or you could grow those Steel Ovaries you speak so much of and climb trad! Send stuff on pre-placed gear
Sandbagging is a dirty game

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Justin
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Re: Best Sport Routes in Cape Town

Postby Justin » Mon Jun 22, 2015 8:08 am

There was a apparently a mugging at Skoorsteenkop Crag on Saturday!

Please mail me if you have details to share: justin@climbing.co.za
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