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PostPosted: Fri Jun 20, 2014 7:21 am 
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Joined: Mon Oct 16, 2006 8:53 am
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Location: Cape Town
Real Name: Charles Edelstein
If anyone is keen to join, I shall be going to Yelowwood tomorrow to climb Lekker Time 16 with my buddy Straughan. Leaving CityROCK at 08h00. First come first served. PM for details. Will need boots, harness, helmet, head torch warm jacket and snacks for the day. You must be reasonably fit for the walk. There is no point leaving earlier as it will be unpleasantly cold to climb in the shade for more than a pitch or two. So if we start climbing by 11ish then will be warm and toasty.


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 20, 2014 8:18 am 
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Joined: Mon Jan 23, 2006 1:52 pm
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we'll see you up there Snort, we'll be doing either Play Time or Divine Time.
Which is the better one to do?
I don't see the RD for Play Time, although there are some pics with good views of the lines, can you post 'em or send 'em to me?


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 20, 2014 8:50 am 
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Divine Time is best. There will be a bit of wet on it but does not affect the climbing or the safety. Play Time will be too wet to be fun.

Divine Time starts just at the blue barrel water collection. We will be there around 10am Will be cold before then


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 20, 2014 10:33 am 
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And another fk'n time ...will that be dry, and how much harder is it than the other two?
RD?


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 20, 2014 11:57 am 
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Another Fckn time may be dry. Quite a bit harder than the other two. The top pitch is a little "out there" but quite safe!


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 20, 2014 12:39 pm 
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I think we'll stick to divine time for now
'out there' sounds a little out there for us at this point


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 20, 2014 1:10 pm 
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Real Name: Charles Edelstein
Divine Time is just that.

If the weather looks KAK (which it is not forecast to be) and/or you want a shorter walk, then Sublime Time has 4 really good pitches especially the top one. And it will be dry.

I am taking a beeg lens and camera up with me so I shall get some nice shots of you on Divine Time tomorrow from Lekker Time......

It will be cold! Until the sun gets to you around 1130. So I would not start too early. I suggest you take a light cooker and a good plan is to heat some water and carry up a flask. There is lotsa water at the start so don't carry any!. A hot drink on the route is really nice if your hands and feet are cold.

If you do sublime Time you cross a stream just before you start scrambling up the ridge. That is a good place to leave your extra stuff. Send me a pm or email if you want more info.


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 20, 2014 4:14 pm 
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More people meeting up at Yellowwood than ARF meets these days!


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 21, 2014 6:36 am 
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v. nice. 26 years since I've done a route there. Its a great place.


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 21, 2014 11:25 pm 
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just don't do one of snorts routes thinking they'll be easy - they're sandbagged :twisted:

climbed divine time today...well flailed up it might be a better description. Great route, great setting, but very challenging climbing and the 19 grading is under graded I think, the crux roof pitch I'd put at 20 and the other pitches are solid, committing and technical at their grade.

I got home so broken.

Well done snort for a great route and great seeing you out there if if it was yelling to each other across the walls of yellowwood.
well be back!


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 22, 2014 8:06 am 
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Attachment:
Divine Time, Brent on the 2nd crux pitch 4.jpg
Divine Time, Brent on the 2nd crux pitch 4.jpg [ 110.77 KiB | Viewed 2093 times ]
Divine Time may be grade 20 or so overall. Grade 19 is so difficult to define in the Western Cape context as there are so few routes of the grade, especially on TM. I think there is nothing harder than Last Laugh on Divine Time and it is not as hard as Touch and Go. The problem with the 19's on TM, at least the one's I can think of, is that they all have short cruxes or "tricks" preceded by and followed by straight-forward easy climbing. So they are not comparable really.

Divine Time and all the new routes at YW are full-on "Big Wall" country climbs with lots-n-lots of very steep climbing. On that basis, fitness and more particular YW fitness is critical to success. And conditions make all the difference too!

I have always made the point, that Prime Time and Fantastic Time are supposedly graded 23. However, on both routes the 23 pitches do not have an actual move harder than 21 if you know the moves. But don't think you can go on-sight either even if you can climb Africa Arete (grade 25 on TM). As a total experience they are both solid grade 25 or to use the British Grade E56a. And that is in perfect conditions! Yesterday (the middle of Winter!) would have been way too hot to climb either of those routes!

Prime Time Direct is, (or rather was) graded 24. But it is actually harder to on-sight than Uber Huber on TM in my view which is grade 26!

The crux pitch of Armageddon Time is solid 24 and or even 25 to on-sight!

So Yellowwood is a bit of a sand-bag I think. And I feel I have to grade the routes in that context.

Extra Time and Good Time I think are correctly graded for any context and especially as the hard pitches are so easy to protect. Unlike the other new routes, most of the climbing on these two routes is straight-forward and not too strenuous and tiring. The cruxes are, like TM routes, short, fair at the grade, and very easy to protect to the extent that they are almost like sport routes. And the cruxes are graded for the on-sight! I shall copy and paste this beta into the WIKI.

Meanwhile me and my aging, fitness and weight challenged buddy Straughan who was cramping on the first pitch, made our way up Lekker Time and then shuffled our way down in the dark to the car.

I climbed Lekker Time a few weeks ago with Margaret my wife who rarely climbs and but for one move which requires a fist jamb she sailed through the route. So I think Lekker Time is fair at the grade 16 but probably overall grade 17. We had fun too.


Attachments:
Divine Time, Brent on the 2nd crux pitch 4.jpg
Divine Time, Brent on the 2nd crux pitch 4.jpg [ 94.17 KiB | Viewed 2093 times ]
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 22, 2014 11:58 am 
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Snort I think your comment is exactly on the button:
The problem with the 19's on TM, at least the one's I can think of, is that they all have short cruxes or "tricks" preceded by and followed by straight-forward easy climbing.

Most TM routes are short cruxes rather than long sustained climbing like YW and so are not comparable. YW is a tough place compared to TM and I think we bit off more than we could chew. But we'll be back!

Thanks for the pic! if you have other and can mail them that would be awesome!


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