Very Easy Trad on the Peninsula

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Real Name: Wesley

Very Easy Trad on the Peninsula

Postby Wes » Thu Feb 13, 2014 9:52 am

I am looking to take my wife for her first trad climb and am trying to decide on a very easy, single pitch, route with a short walk in. (In and around CT)

I was thinking one of the pitches of either Clifton Crest (15) or Aquanaut (15).

But can anyone recommend anything easier?

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Re: Very Easy Trad on the Peninsula

Postby mountainmailorder » Thu Feb 13, 2014 10:30 am

White Face. Grade 10 or so. Also on Lions Head. Good gear, no exposure, good stances.
Just watch out for all the soloists bypassing you during rush hour. It's in the Lions Head guide book.
But route-finding on LH is notoriously difficult, you never know what Naught you are on, so here is a pic of the start.
white face start.jpg
white face start.jpg (73.07 KiB) Viewed 1042 times

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Nic Le Maitre
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Re: Very Easy Trad on the Peninsula

Postby Nic Le Maitre » Thu Feb 13, 2014 10:55 am

Arrow Final or Fraser's Variation
Happy climbing

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Re: Very Easy Trad on the Peninsula

Postby Straightplumb » Fri Feb 14, 2014 12:51 am

Hey Wes

Take your wife to lakeside pinnacle and trad the 14 on the asterisk wall, that is where I taught myself to trad, seeing the bolts would probably give some extra much fun to trad there.
Don't cut that which you can untie. Traddies are hard core, they can hang on their nuts.

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Re: Very Easy Trad on the Peninsula

Postby Xharlie » Fri Feb 14, 2014 4:03 pm

These are all about 12 or 13 and stand out in my memory as great routes with much gear, many great sights, no moments of terror and easy stances:

  • Staircase (Fountain Ledge) - an absolutely brilliant first climb. Place lots of gear on the traverse when climbing with new seconds.
  • Atlantic Wall (Lion's Head) - another easy, brilliant line but probably only appropriate for parties of two.
  • Muizenberg Crag Direct (Muizenberg) - my wife's first trad. lead was on this route. She grabbed the rack at the base on a whim (didn't want to be bored, belaying me, I think) and ended up leading most of the route. I think the adjacent climb (Muizenberg Crag) is also brilliant and even easier. One band of rock is rubbishy - a characteristic of Muizenberg.

White Face (Lion's Head) has been mentioned before and I second that recommendation. Do it when it's dry or be prepared to practice your slimey face climbing and placements in waterfalls.

EDIT: These are all multi-pitch routes. Sorry. [TL;DR]

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Re: Very Easy Trad on the Peninsula

Postby Wes » Sat Feb 15, 2014 9:14 pm

Thanks for all the great routes, guys. We will probably do White Face on Lions Head. I also just got the Cape Peninsula Select book. So finding plenty of new trad that I need to get on myself. If you havent got this book, go get it.

Ill let you know how White Face goes. :thumright

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