Climb ZA

WHAT AN AMAZING PLACE

I've spent just over 2 weeks of my holiday admiring the densely jointed red stained cliffs of Boven and I truly think this place is world class. Climbing styles vary so vastly that anybody can find something to do. The climbing at this place can hardly be improved, but unfortunately I came across some worries:

I spent a day at Hallucinogen staring at cigarette stompies:l If you gonna give yourself cancer, please dont influence the rest of us by leaving your buds lying EVERYWHERE/

Tick-marks thicker and longer than most guys on many routes

Lastly I came across a bolt just right of the start of the Godzilla crux, looking like a linkage between Godzilla and Monster. What worries me is that for the 1st time ever, on God No Wall, you can now clip 3 bolts from one jug I was tempted to remove this bolt and not speak of it, but as it would just be replaced, I didnt. Linkups on this wall is possible, EVERYWHERE, but it looks poop and it really detracts from the king lines that have been carefully bolted. Please consider removing this bolt before I bolt a line intersecting every line on the God No Wall to prove how bad this looks. Oudshoorn is the perfect example why this bolt should be chopped.

There are many more lines out there, instead of bolting linkups, man up, bolt a new line or man up and lead it out. This particular linkup has been sent without the bolt. FA claimed using this bolt will be laughed about.

eT

Personally I don't like link ups

Amen Brother! The littering in the crags is a sore point. I carry junk out every time I go out and cigarette butts are but the tip of the iceberg. If you can't take your rubbish with you when you leave please don't visit.

Hi Forket

Although I agree that stompies are disgusting and tick marks should be kept to a minimum and holds brushed, the link up in question has already been under scrutiny. The outcome of the debate is local consensus of it staying up and a project that promises to be one of the most sustained lines on the God No! Wall. The bolter in question is an experienced bolter that has opened many routes around the country. He is renowned for his perfect bolt placement and unwavering contribution of good hard lines to our route guides. Although excessive link ups are unsightly this is an obvious line and is not in any way contrived or obscure. Let the man have his project. As an aside, why not 'man up' and give Godzilla a burn like the ladies that have been hanging out in those parts?

Candice

ha ha ebert, you are in deep trouble now... For what its worth, there are some who dislike that bolt including me but I am too pussy/not bothered enough to chop it..I also might be slightly biased.. It IS actually great that you have strong opinions about such things! Also well done on Next Generation, hard route that. Jon Glassberg couldn't do it and he is STRONG, he flashed Pitfighter and got Psyche ward second go..you sure its only 32? Keep cranking. Andrew

Ebert, stop keeping them all in suspense and tell them what you did... Come on, you know you want to! I know you have a funny policy about projects that are meant to be closed; what was it you said? "I'm going to make it my mission in life to go out and open all the projects around me." I'm sure you want to take credit for this one.

_________________
I hate this real world place... I'd be more than happy to live out there rather...

Candice, thanks for defending your boss.

So this perfect bolt... Why not reach left or right and clip an existing bolt from the same jug?

Further more, if you look at the bedding planes of the quartzite, you can cross into any line from any bolt on theWHOLE WALL . If the original bolter of the line wanted to traverse the wall, I'm sure he would have bolted in such a manner, instead he chose lines going up.

Lastly, unless projects require you to use all the bolts of a line, this "line" has been done.

eT

So who removed the hAnger?
eT

Ebert,

Jou ma, miskien?