Bloc 11 Bouldering Grades - Opinions?

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mistrial
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Joined: Tue Sep 18, 2018 4:03 pm
Real Name: Cal Hinshaw

Bloc 11 Bouldering Grades - Opinions?

Post by mistrial » Sat Nov 10, 2018 6:04 pm

Hi All

Spending some time recently at Bloc 11. Before I start, there is no malicious intent with the below comments. I cannot fault the gym for its facilities, staff, layout, users and what a great atmosphere the gym has! Just opening a potential discussion and clarity!

I am hoping to maybe discuss clarity on the grading system. At the moment they rank from EASY to HARD with no use of the V Scale or Font which is something I've not seen before. I don't have a problem with this if you have previous experiences in other gyms and have a rough idea of climbing grades. However it would be nice for people to be able to say what grades they can flash, circuit on etc etc etc. May be useful when looking for grade intended training routines?

I have tried to use my past gym experience in the UK to hopefully put some grades against colours which I can climb consistently. I would love to hear peoples opinions about the higher grading section and get some thoughts!

White: VB - V0 (4-5)
Orange V0 - V1 (5-5+)
Blue V2 - V4 (6A - 6B)
Black V4 - V5 (6B - 6C+)
Pink - V5 - V6 (6C+ - 7A)
Purple - ?
Yellow - ?
Red - ?

Let me know what you guys think! As I mentioned I could be waaaay off with this but might start a discussion for regulars!

Cheers!

Cal

Chris F
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Re: Bloc 11 Bouldering Grades - Opinions?

Post by Chris F » Tue Nov 13, 2018 1:16 pm

I've noticed this system used at some of the larger bouldering facilities in the UK.

IIRC Eden Rock Edinburgh, has the Progress in difficulty as you describe, then a sloper circuit and a crimps circuit, maybe they have similar.

Is it not written up on a board somewhere?

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Forket
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Re: Bloc 11 Bouldering Grades - Opinions?

Post by Forket » Wed Nov 14, 2018 7:19 am

Gym climbing isn't real. You can't stick a grade to it as the fear factor, exposure factor, etc etc doesn't exist as in the grades you trying to relate them to. Best is to not try.

It's like comparing having sex by yourself to actually having sex with another person. Just not worth it:')

Best is just to enjoy the real thing for what it is and not think about the made up stuff too much!

Ebert Nel

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Thermophage
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Re: Bloc 11 Bouldering Grades - Opinions?

Post by Thermophage » Wed Nov 14, 2018 8:15 am

Personally I think what they are doing is much better.
Mainly because as soon as you put a grade to a colour range, people are GOING to find kak with it and think a problem is sandbagged or visa versa.
The setter always has a bit of a personal style or body position shape which CAN make a problem very different for someone else.
So yeah. Leave the actual grades (which are ALWAYS an average anyway) for outdoors and colours for inside.
If you wanna know your flash grade etc...Go climb outside more. It's CT,m you have no excuse ;)

Logic
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Re: Bloc 11 Bouldering Grades - Opinions?

Post by Logic » Wed Nov 14, 2018 8:23 pm

People,

If you can climb it you can grade it. Climbs (plastic,wood,rock) are real, grades are imaginary.

The Bloc11 problems ARE graded, however, a novel (colour code) system is employed.

The person whom started this thread wanted to explore how this novel grading system relates to more commonly used (V, fb) grading systems and NOT which system ought to be used.

I have only climbed at Bloc11 once, so I cannot offer any insights on grade comparisons.

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Forket
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Re: Bloc 11 Bouldering Grades - Opinions?

Post by Forket » Wed Nov 14, 2018 9:15 pm

You might be right about "anything is gradable", though it's very improbable to set 2 routes of the same colour at the same grade, especially on a regular basis. This month it's one grade, next month it's another, etc etc.

For example. If you drive the same route to work everyday, your fuel consumption will be different on a daily basis. Too many factors to put an exact number to it.

Keith
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Joined: Tue Apr 25, 2006 9:50 am

Re: Bloc 11 Bouldering Grades - Opinions?

Post by Keith » Thu Nov 15, 2018 10:19 am

imho
white/orange = 3 on average
blue = 4 - 5
black = 6A - 6C ish
pink = 6B - 7A ish

As others have pointed out, the colour gives a rough indication of difficulty but certainly doesn't (nor claims to) pinpoint it.

It wouldn't make sense for people to use the colours to "say what grades they can flash" &c because there is not only a fair bit of variation in difficulty within a colour, but also overlap in difficulty from colour to colour

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