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Climbing Shoes

Posted: Wed Feb 03, 2010 8:49 pm
by nicolaasdekker
I want to get a pair of shoes that are easy on the foot for a beginner and will be ok for most sport climbing which will lead into mutli pitch and soon trad I have my eyes set on the new Evolv "Quest" any suggestions, comments, or critique?

Re: Climbing Shoes

Posted: Thu Feb 04, 2010 8:58 am
by thomsonza
Hey,

What grades do you climb/ plan on climbing?

In my opinion, go for the shoe that fits you the best. It will make all the difference in the beginning and you will more than likely need to buy a new pair of shoes before you hit the higher grades.

Cheers

Re: Climbing Shoes

Posted: Thu Feb 04, 2010 9:13 am
by alvaourr
Hi Nicolaas,

I just started climbing a month or so ago and I have a pair of La Sportiva Scorpions and I'm loving them.
Basically the lace up version of the Mantis, both nice entry level shoes I'm told.

As a beginner myself, I chose a size that fits tight enough that my foot doesn't move around inside the shoe, however I'm also not in pain the moment I put them on.

Re: Climbing Shoes

Posted: Thu Feb 04, 2010 10:47 am
by george nel
La Sportiva Mythos is a good option,very comfy and you can climb hard in them,good allrounder.

Re: Climbing Shoes

Posted: Thu Feb 04, 2010 10:52 am
by Nic Le Maitre
check out the current issue of SA Mountain Sport, there is a good shoe guide/review in it

Re: Climbing Shoes

Posted: Thu Feb 04, 2010 12:55 pm
by micky
5.10 Anasazi velcro. Great all rounder and works great as a high performance shoe too. Its also got 5.10 rubber so you cant go wrong :pirat:

Re: Climbing Shoes

Posted: Thu Feb 04, 2010 1:19 pm
by Justin
Check out climbingshoereview.com

I recommend not spending too much on your first pair of shoes, beginners tend to wear down shoes very quickly as their foot technique is not very well honed.
Just make sure they are reasonably comfortable.

Re: Climbing Shoes

Posted: Thu Feb 04, 2010 1:33 pm
by thomsonza
I second the Anasazi's :thumleft: GREAT shoes! Although depending on your foot (and probably the size) it gets a little uncomfortable on longer climbs.

As for the Scorpions, i can't say the same. Great on comfort and great for easier routes, but the rubber is just not good on friction. Also, the shoes did not last me very long.

I do own a pair of both.

Re: Climbing Shoes

Posted: Thu Feb 04, 2010 2:20 pm
by Nic Gear
i find shoes are a very pesonal thing, ignoring climbing types; styles and rubbers (which is very important).Different brands fit certain feet types differently, do you have wide feet or narrow ones? if they wide go for a European brand like seltics or sportiva. if they are long and thin an American brand like madrock, 5-10, or evolve. What are your toes up to? is you middle toe bigger than your big toe? are your toes flat or rounded. these little things go a long way in choosing the best shoe.

Re: Climbing Shoes

Posted: Fri Feb 05, 2010 2:55 pm
by nicolaasdekker
LOL, Im most probably buying from you anyway Nic. Will send you a PM asap

Re: Climbing Shoes

Posted: Fri Feb 05, 2010 5:36 pm
by Nic Gear
fantastic! more important come join me climbing!?!

Re: Climbing Shoes

Posted: Sat Feb 06, 2010 8:13 am
by robertbreyer
1) everyone always believes their particular shoes are the best. never met anyone who has badmouthed their own shoe.

2) climbingshoereview.com - most of these shoes are not available in SA. and they aren't actually proper reviews, just more of the above.
for some real critical opinions go to
http://www.supertopo.com/reviews/gear.p ... mbing+shoe
they have critically reviewed two models that are available in SA - the Anasazi Velcro and the Evolv Defy.

3) ditto for the the review in SA Mountain Sports. this is an article, not a review - it's just a list of what's available. the mag doesnt want to offend any advertisers so they don't say anything bad about any brand or model. pm me and i will send you a copy.

4) go to a dealer where you can try on a few different brands/models/pairs.
especially when you starting off comfort is the most important attribute.

Re: Climbing Shoes

Posted: Sat Feb 06, 2010 10:52 am
by nicolaasdekker
Thanks guys, I have been reading SA MOUNTAIN for a few years now so I got the article on shoes that's where i saw the evolvs. Still think i'll go with them read some blogs about guys who own a pair and reviews have been pretty good as far as comfort go. I live on the south coast Nic so unless you climb somewhere here on the week ends i cant - although i'd love to.

Re: Climbing Shoes

Posted: Sat Feb 06, 2010 6:10 pm
by mullet
As far as entry level shoes go, I feel you can't beat a pair of mad rock flashes. Well made comfortable shoe with fairly sticky rubber and a bomber heel to help you learn a few technical tricks during your early days :) Probably wont get you up much more than a 24 unless you're pretty talented, but will most likely last you until you are ready to progress to something more specific to your foot shape/size and climbing style. I would recommend one size down from street size but that also depends on your feet and how much pain you are prepared to handle. Happy climbing.