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How to get more endurance in my training

Posted: Fri Oct 26, 2007 2:01 pm
by Wild child
I reasantly went on my first climbing expidition with my brother and a few of his climbing friends at Pinacle gorge. On the first day i managed to toprope a 16, 17 and a 19, but on the second day i tried to do this 28 meter grade 24! to my surprize i got to about the 25meter mark but i just didn't have enough stamina left to do the last tail of the climb. I would like to know how i can increase my stamina and endurance through my training?

Posted: Fri Oct 26, 2007 2:57 pm
by The Jimmy

If you don't mind me asking, which 24 were you on? Or if you dont know the name can you describe more or less where it is?

Posted: Fri Oct 26, 2007 3:03 pm
by Wild child
yeah sure the 24's name is scorpio. Do you know it?

Posted: Fri Oct 26, 2007 3:11 pm
by mr Chabalala
Wild child,

Best thing is not play around the easy climbs. To really build strength and stamina, you have to start on the 28's and up.

Also, much better if you don't fall into the top roping habit, so start a few easy leads. A few nice 25/26's will do.

Posted: Fri Oct 26, 2007 3:43 pm
by nosmo
This has been repeated to death, but really, the only way to climb harder is to climb more.

Posted: Fri Oct 26, 2007 4:32 pm
by The Jimmy
Wild Child yes I know it well I did it about a year ago. I think it's a bit closer to 25 though and one of the craziest wildest routes I've done. I personally don't think that you have to train much endurance for it. You get to a small ledge about two-thirds of the way up where you can have an awkward but fairly good rest, and then fire the last bit. The end is super thin and technical, rather train your footwork (read: toe-work) and lock-offs for the 2 clips on the face just before the anchors. Spectacular route, good luck!

Re: How to get more endurance in my training

Posted: Sat Oct 27, 2007 10:48 pm
by Magnus
Wild child wrote:to my surprize i got to about the 25meter mark but i just didn't have enough stamina left to do the last tail of the climb.
Scorpio is a 21 up until you get to the tail. Hence, the name.

Posted: Sun Oct 28, 2007 11:20 am
by Wild child
i'm sorry if i got the details of the route wrong i'm still a biginner ( and still noob so any mistakes i make please tell me cuz i'm still learning).

Posted: Sun Oct 28, 2007 11:27 am
by Wild child
I would also like to know if it is possible to train in body comphresion without having to go climb? (some other way maybe?)

Posted: Sun Oct 28, 2007 1:09 pm
by Bubbles
Hi Wild Child, i find the best training technique would be the \"pyrimid\".
It is really simple, climb as many of the easier grades as possible and build up towards the higher grades eg. climb ten grade 15's, then nine grade 16's then eight grade 17's etc.

This will not only help in your endurance training but also slowly start helping you with your technique as well. Technique is just as important when it comes to endurance, the better your technique the less time and energy you waste doing various moves on a route. Grab all the technique advise you can get and experiment when you are climbing a route.

Resting is just as important, i was always told that even if you feel like you have all the energy in the world, if you find a place to rest TAKE IT! it might be the last chance you get.

As far as alternative methods for training... there is no better way to train for climbing than to climb! but remember your rest days are as important as your training days.

As mentioned already do not allow yourself to only be a top rope climber, when you feel more confident and have a bit more strength start learning to lead climb, this will offer a whole new dimension and challenge to your climbing, but only start leading when YOU feel ready, do not allow yourself to be forced by others...everything in good time.

There are my 2cents. Climb hard and most importantly Have Fun...otherwise what is the point. :wink:

Posted: Sun Oct 28, 2007 10:01 pm
by mokganjetsi
go buy eric horst's book \"how to climb 5.12\" - should get it on amazon; maybe kalahari. all the tips you need to get your head, body and technique in shape to that magic 25+ mark.

ps: doing 25m worth of 21 as a beginner is impressive (even on toprope). but start leading to guage where you really are and work from there.